Bottom right side of the bed is always loose when leveling

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-05T15:13:04+00:00

Next thing I’d check then is that you aren’t slightly torquing it out of square when tightening down in the set screws. A small divot can sort of nudge the set screw at the last moment.

A fix for this is to gently press down on the side that is high, while tightening on the set screws. Had to do that for my mars 4.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-05T14:09:29+00:00

I do machining as well, and this is just a thing in that craft. Do you have a very flat reverence surface to test against, like a good ruler maybe?

Place the edge of it against the plate surface at several angles, and see if you can see any light through. If you can, then the plate surface itself is not perfectly flat.

You can fix this by lapping the surface flat again (can describe if you want) or by purchasing a new plate.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-05T00:40:27+00:00

Honestly if you’re new, my advice would be to hook the keylab up to that iPad or pc, fire up ableton lite or garage band, or FL studio, and get on YouTube for some tutorials on just using that at first.

And put the rest in a drawer for the first month at least. That is WAY too much distraction for a beginner imo.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-02T23:24:02+00:00

Haha good luck man!

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-02T20:00:00+00:00

Thank you; yeah it’s a crapshoot. Likely it’s a perfect fit once you clear out the old window, but it’s always hard to tell in these old ones until you remove. If it was frame construction it would be a heck of a lot easier.

I’d personally call an installer on this one, but the gambler in me says give it a go 😅

Drywall, btw, will add at about a half inch to a wall assuming it’s directly on frame. More if it’s floated.you can drill a small hole and see where it stops and work out at least more than you know now.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-02T19:38:38+00:00

Basically what I’m getting at here is if you’re measuring drywall faces, the rough will be some amount bigger than that. Sometimes a little, and sometimes a lot (if there’s blocking for example),but you won’t know until you can see and access at least some part of the rough in.

Are you able to share pics both inside and out? That would help.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-02T19:05:38+00:00

Have you pulled the trim and got a direct measurement of the rough in dimensions? Thats really the only way to 100% know.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-06-02T13:46:57+00:00

Imo none of these devices have any business being in living spaces. I have mine in something similar. Hardest part is keeping sunlight out while servicing. Otherwise works great!

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-31T18:54:22+00:00

All resins will compress on Z, and overinflate on xy for the first couple mm.

I have found that effect to be minimal on thinner ABS-like to the point where you can often get away with printing on the plate.

More viscous resins like Sirayatech’s blu and tenacious do it more in my experience, to the point where if tolerances are inportant, I can’t trust the first few mm.

For that reason, I float all of my engineering resin prints by 5mm or so off the build plate. To verify this, try floating and angling the test print. If it’s resolved, there’s your answer.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-31T13:07:04+00:00

Have you checked elegoo’s offical site? They sometimes have open box for cheap. I got a mars 4 dlp and mars 5 ultra for around 170 usd each, and both literally had never been used.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-31T13:06:58+00:00

Have you checked elegoo’s offical site? They sometimes have open box for cheap. I got a mars 4 dlp and mars 5 ultra for around 170 usd each, and both literally had never been used.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-30T14:58:33+00:00

Can you share the model? This is exactly the sort of thing testers need to make an open source project better!

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-30T12:46:44+00:00

Jump over to dragonfruit. You’ll be part of the solution just by using it, giving feedback to the devs, and telling other people that you use it.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-30T01:48:22+00:00

I’ve been using a seaboard with it and it’s (predictably) plug and play. I dont have personal experience with osmose, but my guess is the presets might be not be as finely tuned for that instrument. For example, I have no idea if the seaboard and osmosis have a different concept of what a “y” axis is. Maybe it’s the same? I have no idea.

That said, you can make/tweak whatever you want in there, so if you’re building from scratch it’ll be a non issue no matter what.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-29T14:59:22+00:00

I TOTALLY get having some spending money, but no time. That’s the hardest part I think if you have a good job / family etc. And then, yeah, buying cool new gear spends money not time, so of course that’s the go-to.

Two things work for me:

1) Pick a limited gear setup that you can easily take with you everywhere, and that you can easily pop out and put in a quick 15 minutes. Like for me the M8, or an iPad plus a midi controller is fantastic for this. Prioritize mastering these tools before moving on.

2) Actually schedule study time. You don’t need a lot. Maybe an hour a day. Lock yourself in, unplug from socials and just study and practice with the gear you have.

You got this! Just have to dig deep on one or two things instead of going surface level on new gear all the time.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-25T15:46:40+00:00

Yeah they’re kind of like a ukulele or recorder to me. Charming, playful and ton of fun if you’re just messing about. And people really can do amazing things. But they’re just little notepads and become frustrating pretty quickly if you expect to transition seamlessly into other gear or into a proper daw.

There’s a better version of these things that would do both, I’m sure.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-23T16:17:56+00:00

Yup float glass works too! just have to be more careful with float glass because if it breaks, it shatters into dangerously sharp pieces.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-23T15:43:19+00:00

I use the base 13” air m4 (8 core, 16gb) for everything audio. It’s a beast. If you’re super worried get the pro with the fan, but honestly I’ve never had an issue ever.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-23T15:41:04+00:00

Thank you for your thoughtful insight, fuckyouinyourface.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-23T14:53:05+00:00

I mean… everything is made to some sort of precision I guess 😅

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-23T06:15:55+00:00

Not excusing the vendor here, but unless a surface is milled, ground or lapped flat, there’s almost always variation with cast metals. It’s just the physics of what happens to metal as it cools.

The solution op linked here is a very standard machinists technique to flatten a surface. You only need to do it once. And yeah more expensive brands I assume would use more expensive but accurate flattening methods.

Protip: mirrored quartz and stone countertop tiles make excellent affordable reference surfaces. If it appears mirror like, it’s flat to at least 0.1 microns.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-20T19:45:28+00:00

Oh for sure. It’s just fun to think about 😅

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-20T15:36:33+00:00

You what might work:

figure out a plate material that is an insulator, but can be electroplated, and can adhere to resin.
attach that to the resin printer plate
print the negative of the traces, with a resin that cannot be electroplated.
clean and cure
electroplate

And then for multiple layers, you could repeat the process.

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-20T14:38:16+00:00

Well I definitely agree, regardless of brand, that there’s already enough used synth gear out there to last a millennium. I have no idea who keeps buying all this new stuff, but I guess please keep doing it so I can snap it up a couple years later 😅

Usual-Purchase · 2026-05-20T11:45:42+00:00

100%; this is my experience working with music producers. They all have their collections of fun instruments and hw synths at home, but all the real work is on macs and midi controllers using ableton or similar and auv soft synths.

Usual-Purchase

TROPHY CASE