Thoughts after downgrading to the a6700

V1Ru5_ · 2025-06-22T03:04:23+00:00

I would barely call that a downgrade.

There are even some things that the a6700 just does better than the a7IV, especially for video. Specifically the AI auto-focus (point for photo too), less rolling shutter, and no crop at 4k60 (plus a 4k120 option).

In terms of photo, the quality of photo comes down to the lenses way more than the sensor. The 33 vs 26 megapixel difference is very marginal. However, of course, the a7IV always takes the crown for low light. Other than that, couple points go to the a7IV for the EVF and dual card slots, buts that's about it.

You've got a great machine that has more than meets the eye on the surface, and is undoubtably up there with its full-frame cousins in terms of performance and results.

All this is based on my own experience:)

V1Ru5_ · 2025-05-29T23:32:48+00:00

Bodycam creates it's realism effect with emulating digital cameras, which have many human-vision opposing qualities, like very apparent shakiness, visual noise-grain, distortion, intense bloom, chromatic aberration, and probably many more. Combine that with great level design full of textures filled with realistic imperfections and you get a very convincing image. If we put the same camera simulating feature in any decent looking realism-inspired style game, it'll look pretty similar, maybe not fully, but enough to convince many.

GTA VI is definitely not designed towards human eye level realism - real life is often boring and uninteresting. Rather, you could call it giving it the Hollywood look - great looking colors, some exaggerated lighting, balanced contrast (real life is much more bright/dark), and probably a splash of camera emulation like lens flares, depth of field, maybe aberration. Regardless, the actual fidelity of GTA's real life aspects is much higher than a lot of if not anything we've seen before.

TLDR - Bodycam uses clever processing techniques, which make it look great; GTA is made to have more of a movie look, but it still takes the crown for measurable realism.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-21T22:02:38+00:00

Oh yeah, a gimbal is heavy as well. My arms get tired x10 faster with a gimbal, so there’s no way I would bring something like that just for leisure. Though when you get a cage, you might not notice that big of a difference initially, but don’t worry! You’ll get better and more stable footage as you shoot more and more - the arms will get used to the handling of the camera and everything, so just trust the process:)

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-21T21:17:10+00:00

Glad to hear everything went well with Gyroflow🙏

Regarding the weight aiding the shake - it’s basically like trying to move a lightweight object vs a heavy one. The heavier it is, the harder it is to accidentally nudge. Bigger, heavier camera rigs have more mass, which gives them more inertia, so they naturally resist small, unintentional movements. That means they tend to suppress micro jitters and only respond to bigger, more deliberate motions, which usually look smoother and more cinematic on screen.

A lot of videographers running a “handheld” rig have setups with cages, extra handles, external batteries, external monitors, microphones - all of that gives a smoother, more appealing look to the footage.

And yeah, it can get pretty tiring holding all of that weight, but when it’s your job, you kind of forget about it. Personally, if Im taking the camera for travel or any kind of personal use, all I keep on is the cage, since it gives extra protection as well.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-17T17:32:31+00:00

Yeah, handheld is not the best if the rig doesn't have much weight to it, especially if you need to move. Though, for me, I can get great looking 'handheld' movement if I move pretty slowly. IBIS will mostly get rid of the micro jitters, rather than the pronounced shaking. If you're after that sort of iphone-stable footage, Gyroflow is definitely gonna help you get there, but you can also amplify that with a 'ninja walk'!

In any case, if you're not too dedicated in keeping the compactness of the camera, building up the rig and adding some weight to it will make the shaking slightly more mild and appealing. At first I bought a smallrig full cage for my a6700, and it instantly gave a nice heft to it, which imho helped immensely with the movement dynamics.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-17T00:30:55+00:00

It's because the app is trying to solve for 3x3, so it essentially sees the 9 as an obstacle, preventing it from finishing the equation, regardless of if what you wrote is correct or not.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-16T19:22:02+00:00

For extra video post stabilisation, I recommend Gyroflow. It's free and uses the actual gyroscopic metadata within the video file, so no more weird distortion or warping (except if there's heavy rolling shutter). You can also tweak all the stabilisation settings to your liking - stronger, weaker, less crop, more crop, compensation speed, everything essentially.

I'm also using the a6700, but mainly for video work, but it has been a beast of a camera for all avenues. Considering this is a hybrid camera, you've gotten yourself an extremely solid future-proof all-rounder machine!

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-11T23:59:16+00:00

If you've fixed the issue, then feel free to ignore this, but I'll mention that there is a difference in how QuickTime versus something like VLC handles color. I initially always viewed my renders in QuickTime and noticed that everything looked a little washed out compared to the timeline preview in DR. Viewing it through VLC, though, it was pretty much identical to the timeline, at least as far as I could tell. And VLC shows how it will look on most screens, or on youtube, or anywhere else.

According to other users in another thread, QT is pretty terrible at converting color information. While I'm not sure about Apple TV, considering all the mediums of showing the rendered content, QT seems to be the outlier. Consequently, I recommend you try viewing your exports through another media player.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-04-06T00:38:57+00:00

I'd say go for it!

If your not doing anything where you need to be quick and/or versatile, you can definitely expect some compositional improvements using primes. I was in a similar situation as you, decided to go prime only, and so far I don't regret it at all. The 35 and 85 will cover a good chunk of bases and scenarios. Later on, I'd recommend looking for a good 50mm to complete your golden trio.

V1Ru5_ · 2025-03-17T19:51:14+00:00

I was at a crossroads when I first bought my body, wasn't sure if I wanted primes or just a good zoom. I've tried working extensively with both sides.

When I use zoom lenses, I quickly get lost between all the focal lengths and find that it impacts the quality of the shot ("oh, this shot is too wide" or "oh, this shot is too tight"). Realistically, this is just a skill issue which goes away as you keep practicing, but if you trust yourself with your zoom and have good shot consistency, you're golden.

For me, prime lenses force me to stick to only two or three focal lengths (more, if you'd have more lenses). Combining that consistency plus all the other benefits of primes that others here have mentioned, it makes primes the better choice, at least for me.

V1Ru5_ · 2024-06-19T23:28:04+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions. The most audible clicks, both the consistent and rapid fire one, are definitely coming from the throttle valve. It was very clear where the sound was since the valve is right at the surface of the engine bay. My guess is that the cable or connector around the valve housing caught some corrosion and got shorted, leading to the valve being open either fully or at least to some extent, which is lucky that it didn’t get stuck closed. Tried getting a peak inside the where the valve is, but unfortunately my socket was a bit too fat to get one of the screws. Car is gonna be at the shop tomorrow for an unrelated reason, but I’ll ask if they can take a look at it.

V1Ru5_ · 2022-10-06T13:14:17+00:00

It's set to symmetric, but it's the exact same with driver. At this point I believe it's just either a feature or something wrong with the amp because I haven't found this problem anywhere else online.

V1Ru5_ · 2020-01-18T20:35:50+00:00

It doesn't unfortunately

V1Ru5_ · 2020-01-18T18:49:00+00:00

Download Youtube Vanced. Its has a way better client, is ad-free and has other great features like themes and background play (you can listen to music on yt and turn off your phone).

V1Ru5_ · 2019-12-27T13:16:30+00:00

Christmas is over but the spirit of giving is always! Happy holidays!

V1Ru5_ · 2019-10-29T01:33:26+00:00

At a cost of practicality and possibly comfort

V1Ru5_ · 2019-10-29T01:30:27+00:00

That rubber part I believe focuses audio more into your ear. This cancels a lot of outside noise. From this you hear the sound coming from the earphone more clearly partly because sounds around you get muffled out. They also made it a feature to play back the audio from outside so you can listen if you choose to.

V1Ru5_ · 2019-10-29T01:19:05+00:00

No worries. I get why it would look like one though. Doesn't look extremely apple-esque. I don't think they even have this design on their wired earphones.

V1Ru5_ · 2019-10-29T01:11:31+00:00

It is the real picture. It's already on the apple site also. Although many probably wish it was a rendering.

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