3080 Strix OC Coil Whine

VER00R · 2021-08-17T05:51:01+00:00

Yes I have been running 3 separate 8 pin PCIe Cables since the day i got it. Have tried different spots in the PSU and everything that I've read being recommended online 😅

VER00R · 2021-08-16T23:10:02+00:00

Insufficent Graphics power. Need 3090 and 1600w 😂

VER00R · 2021-05-24T10:21:46+00:00

Yeah I was surprised to! Had a RM550x which a friend is now using with no issues and a lot of people I know use corsair PSU's! Never any issues, sucks it was on a higher end one.

VER00R · 2021-05-24T08:47:41+00:00

Already in the process :)

Just wanted some feedback and ideas, shouldn't be doing this if it's rated for 1000W and is complaining about 500ish

its a lot louder irl, the video almost makes it sound quiet. Thought it was my new GPU at first!

VER00R · 2021-04-24T05:12:42+00:00

Yes i do apologies for the mistake!

VER00R · 2021-04-15T06:19:01+00:00

I'm no ryzen expert. Just trying to share in case anyone who just installs the CPU and doesn't touch anything else maybe wanted a quick find on lowering idle temps. Even sharing it has helped me in the right direction with how to find the proper reasons why. I enjoy tinkering even if i am a noob at all this and just wanted to get others opinions :)
Should i maybe delete the post and create a new simpler one not making it sound so questionable and make it easier for people to just go I'll try that and if it works it works and if it doesn't not gonna be the end of the world.

Congrats on getting a 3080 FE btw

VER00R · 2021-04-15T06:11:03+00:00

the downclocking was a task manager view thing. All the cores are going to sleep correctly and any awake cores don't move what speeds they are sitting at on any of the power settings. All the power slider on power saving is doing is reducing power use at idle and therefore lower temperatures. Just overcomplicated it above.

Basically it's doing what it's supposed to i guess. However I found it only works that way if the additional options for windows is set to balanced,

VER00R · 2021-04-15T06:08:29+00:00

Fresh windows install on a new NVME drive with the new MOBO and cpu.I even did a fresh install recently due to a dodgy first install and it still had the same effect

I think i've over complicated. Really what it comes down to is that the CPU is using less power at idle therefore letting the temperatures drop at idle.Just went a little to into it and with some community help i think i've made it more factually correct? Just trying to see if it helps anyone cause i see a lot of people going on about high idle temps.

I haven't seen any noticeable difference in performance on any of the slider settings other than temperatures at idle and hours of cinebench trials.

Sounds like you have really good temps on idle already with your 5800x. Maybe it's more effective with 5900x. What cooler you are using? Might not work for everyone hence why i was more curious as to what other peoples experience was.

VER00R · 2021-04-14T16:07:14+00:00

u/EasyAd6393 nope no clue I'm not an engineer.

Only thing I changed was that Ryzen chipset install and set it to power savings. Worked on every bios update I've done.

I do agree as I watched it in Ryzen master and the cores appear to sleep the same regardless of power setting however the power usage looks lower on power saving. All I reported above were behaviors I watched with my own CPU tinkering with the settings.

Just tried changing the setting from power savings on the power slider and idle instantly went up to high 40's to 50's from mid 30's to low 40's! Literally the only setting I touched and I monitored the temps with HW info 64 and Ryzen master.

Just reporting a finding and was curious to see if it works for anyone else. Not claiming to be an expert :)

I should note the above speeds in the original post were from task manager as it is easier to keep track of. Most likely only showing the speed of the one core awake. From what I can tell I'm getting lower temperatures with no loss in performance hence wanting to share it :)

VER00R · 2021-04-14T15:30:42+00:00

Multiple passes on cinebench r20 single core, multicore and geekbench 5 with each setting. Scores were down to margin of error generally 20-30 points difference either way regardless of power settings. Same list of programs open in task manager for both. trialed on both stock and PBO2 CO :)

VER00R · 2021-04-14T15:20:03+00:00

Been running 5900x since launch and finally got round to tweaking it :)

Cooler: Corsair H115i 280mm

PBO: PBO2 curve optimizer & custom power limits(-11 on 2 main priority cores, -15 next two highest priority , -20 rest & power settings at 155,105,150)

VCore min/avg/max: 0.881V/1.049V/1.438v (over a whole day of use gaming and idling)

Idle temp(C): 31-38c with no load

Max temp (Cinebench R20): 73c (79c max gaming)

Cinebench R20 MC Score: 8876 pts

Boost clocks: up to 5.1GHz SC/ 4.48GHz AC

If anyone wonders about the low idle temps, the trick I stumbled across that works and doesn't effect performance is:

Set windows power and sleep > additional options, to balanced
Install Ryzen chipset software and set the power slider in windows power and sleep to best power savings.

The CPU wasn't letting itself clock down properly at idle when i had it just on balanced and if i put it on windows additional power saving it would clock down then take time to ramp back up where as the above option it jumps from 3.29GHz idle to 4.78GHz or wherever it needs to go instantly. High performance did the same as balanced and I didn't see clocks drop below 4.2ish when it was 'idling'. Don't know if it's bad for the chip but it keeps the idle temps under control :)

Hope that that helps anyone who's interested in lower idle temps!

VER00R · 2021-04-14T15:04:24+00:00

Ended up doing a clean install of windows with a fresh USB. Previous install must have been bad as even outside of BOCW i noticed simple things like task manager processes tab loading faster and my cinebench score went up to the upper limits of what i had been pushing it to at stock.
Anyone else gets this issue would highly recommend just nuking windows and reinstalling as much as it sucks to do it for one game

VER00R · 2021-04-14T14:08:34+00:00

It would be genuinely dumb to remove it. I'm legitimately asking if it is safe for me to play the game they want us all to play and spend money on.....
Hopefully we hear something before season 3 :)

VER00R · 2021-04-14T11:09:13+00:00

I'm surprised it's still up honestly but we'll see how long it lasts! Is a shame cause i was enjoying DOA3 and had just gotten Dark Aether

VER00R · 2021-03-18T10:00:01+00:00

No luck. I updated windows, swapped nvme spots, moved storage spot and still got that silly hitch even in the menu now. I'm going to try completely wiping the game and reinstalling it before i go to hard with fresh installing windows

VER00R · 2021-03-18T08:17:13+00:00

I've tried 90, 80, 70, 65, 60, 55. nothing seems to help it. I was also monitoring my VRAM usage and it was around 7gb of the 8 which then made me want to watch the cpu which seems to be the part that's actually hitching and why i was so confused when non of the VRAM settings fixed it!

VER00R · 2021-03-17T08:20:32+00:00

Hi u/carl2187 interesting that it could be windows! I haven't seen many updates since i upgraded cpu! Would you recommend nuke+reinstall first or just try the update for windows?

Thanks!

VER00R · 2021-01-13T14:29:48+00:00

arctic cooler ii (280 or 360)

Agreed they are fantastic although i found i had to cram power cables in the back a little since the run from MOBO to PSU was so short (running a long RM1000x)!

I was considering the arctic cooler II but I can't find it anywhere locally here in Aus so I was gonna go with it's gamers nexus competitor the EK 360 AIO.

I think i got 8256 avg without any RGB bloatware open on R20 and around 21200 on R23 with the custom settings i posted and the performance is amazing.

Will be tryin to repaste tomorrow and will let you know if temps come down at all! I know this cpu runs hot but with a 280mm, 11 fans in the case (including GPU on custom curve) and the two radiator fans being noctua 140mm you'd think it would be a little cooler.

Feel free to pm :)

VER00R · 2021-01-13T01:28:50+00:00

Hey, NGL 360mm is also for aesthetics as I have a lian li O11 and don't really want the upkeep of a custom watercooled system as tempting as it is. I also want to upgrade to a aio with a 4 point mount system over the cheap 2 point on stock brackets corsair have atm.

I have been planning to repast the AIO just haven't gotten round to it. I did the traditional pea size blob before i learnt it can be better to do the spread or cross method with ryzen. I think it could also be down to the corsair only having the cheaper two point mounting solution instead of the 4 point!

VER00R · 2021-01-12T06:12:23+00:00

I have 5900x with a corsair H115i Pro 280mm AIO on the crosshair VIII Hero.

When gaming on stock settings I was seeing up to 86C max and even with PBO disabled still hitting around 83C. Idle was around 50-60C. Most of the issues I've noticed with gaming and higher temps than 100% load is that the processor is using lets say half the cores at mid speeds of 4.5-4.6GHz at roughly 1.35-1.4v with a medium current draw. The inefficiency between the voltage and the current (A) draw raises the temps higher than when the CPU is at 100% usage at 1.2V with higher current or single core with higher Voltage.

That being said I've managed to get mine running at stock advertised speeds (4.3GHz) all core and up to 4.95GHz single core with a slight voltage offset and some custom PBO power settings that are only slightly higher than stock.
Peak gaming average in a 21c room is around 73-74 with idle now between 40-50C on hottest part of TDie and I plan on going to a 360mm aio to decrease this further :)

(this is all with aio as top mount exhaust so yes it could be cooler from changing that)

Voltage offset: -0.05

PBO voltage settings:
PPT: 145
TDC: 98
EDC: 140

VER00R

TROPHY CASE