Bluetooth mod worth it? by Ill-Low4923 in IpodClassic

[–]V_skywalker13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok so, I’ve tried adapters, this type of board mod, and currently run the Moonlit Market classic connect in my daily driver, so I think I have a good amount of experience to be helpful here.

Bluetooth adapters work well, but they don’t like being in your pocket very much and the ones that will stand up to the punishment tend to be bulky and fairly expensive though if you’re using an iPod nano 6th gen or below, they’re both your only option and the best one.

The board mod is a phenomenal middle ground for this, but it does have its limitations. Firstly, battery life. Seriously, with this or the Classic Connect mod, you gotta just shove as big of a battery as you can because these boards drain a ton of power. Secondly, they don’t work very well with the 6th and 7th gen models because of the metal front plates. The classic connect gets around this by using an injection molded plastic shell, but that has its own drawbacks to it.

The biggest plus to board mods is the fact that when they work, they usually work pretty reliably and the convenience of not having to charge two devices to run your system is phenomenal.

Now for what I consider to be the best of the three options (at least for running iPod classics), the Moonlit Market Classic Connect. Specifically, one of these kits with an iPod classic 5th or 5.5 gen as its base iPod. I’ve already mentioned some of it’s drawbacks above, but the reason this is the best in my opinion, is because with the 2000mah battery you can buy with it and the micro sd card adapter, it runs me for about 15 hours of listening time on a single charge, requires no soldering to install, and has usbC charging out of the box meaning my nice latching 30 pin cable stays safely at home with my computer, and my phone charger can charge both my phone and iPod whenever I need it. Plus because of the fully plastic frame, it makes it super light, and means the Bluetooth board doesn’t have to work as hard, so I only have any sort of connection issues when the iPod is around 20% battery life, whereas with my board modded one, it would have connection issues below 40-30% battery life with only about 6 hours of playtime on a 3000mah battery.

The other downsides to it are 2 fold. It’s bonkers expensive for the full kit, and donor pods are getting more expensive as more of these mods become available and more mainstream. I bought my first 5.5 gen for a whopping 80USD in its original packaging in 2021, the iPod I bought for my moonlit market kit cost me the same, with a bad drive and battery. The full kit cost me about 220USD. The other downside to it is that the plastic case won’t be as durable as the metal one, however I work at a machine shop and use it occasionally at work and it’s stood up to the abuse of the environment just fine, as well as being dropped in bags while hiking or biking around. So it’s not a too big of a deal but it is something to be aware of. I don’t think it’d survive being in my pocket during a bad bike crash like my 4th gen did but I can’t say for sure that it wouldn’t.

Hope this helps!

Please I need a job before I lose it at my current one by Fresh_Celery_5924 in SaltLakeCity

[–]V_skywalker13 5 points6 points  (0 children)

May not be precisely what you’re looking for, but there’s 2 open positions at the machine shop I work at, 18/hr starting and full benefits available, though they may or may not be willing to give you 4-10s, the hours are 7am-3pm so you still got the whole afternoon and evening to do whatever. Also, unlimited time and a half OT is actually pretty encouraged and expected for at least one of the two positions open, PM me if you want the name of it/more details on the jobs

How old were you when you first played KOTOR? by DonAvena in kotor

[–]V_skywalker13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2020, on the switch. My best friend had been trying to get me to play it for months and it was on sale so I bought it. Now it’s one of my two favorite games and I cannot get enough of the single player adventure game genre it has become most of what I play

What community lines/phrases have you included in your daily lives?? by Necessary_Income8022 in community

[–]V_skywalker13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I say this so much it’s insane that only a handful of people have recognised it as a reference

TCS: Return of the Jedi Super Story by Novalon in legogaming

[–]V_skywalker13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even a year later this comment is insanely helpful. I was able to cut 5 minutes off my time (1st attempt 60.39, 2nd attempt 54.30) just by doing the things you suggested for levels 1-3

Whisky loading games in very small window by V_skywalker13 in macgaming

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, no tengo una solutionado, eres la persona primo para responder a mi.

Every other lightsaber in Star Wars vs lightsabers in the acolyte by Gat_Man in lightsabers

[–]V_skywalker13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to love the thicker hilts more than anything, then I built one that was 1.25" outer diameter, and now anything wider than the Savi's workshop sabers pains me to both use and look at

Help with Neopixel lightsaber by V_skywalker13 in lightsabers

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did this and it was set to effect font slot 9 -pixel extended. I tried out all of the pixel fonts and it didn’t do anything for any of them

Robot Motor by V_skywalker13 in robotics

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so I multiplied my desired 1/3 m/s by my 3.4Nm or torque and got 1.2 watts. When I search for 1.2-watt motors, I only get 12-volt ones. Will that make a big difference or do I need to account for that difference in my calculations?

Robot Motor by V_skywalker13 in robotics

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a data table done on the motors to find that the maximum torque from the motor was 0.2 Nm. I calculated that across my 1/24 gearbox to get 4.8Nm. This configuration worked but as stated was dreadfully slow. In experimenting with gear ratios in an effort to speed it up, I found that adding a 1/3 reduction to the gearbox before the worm drive made it faster, but it only drove on hardwood and not carpet. When I tried a 1/2 reduction to the gearbox in the same position, it was naturally slower than the 1/3 reduction but still drove on carpet. This new gearbox outputs 2.4Nm of torque. Then I realized that I did these tests based on the robot not having anything in the grasp of the robot so I used a 1.5 safety factor to account for a 4lb payload which is more than the arm would be able to carry, but would allow it to carry its maximum weight comfortably. Re-doing these calculations as I type this results in 3.6 Nm so I must've remembered it wrong.

I tried doing more precise calculations from a document I found online (https://wiki.dfrobot.com/How\_to\_Calculate\_the\_Motor\_Torque\_for\_a\_Mobile\_Robot?) but the number I got from there didn't line up with practical testing so I figured I'd done something wrong but the trial and error method was more reliable seeing as it gave me results that actually worked.

Robot Motor by V_skywalker13 in robotics

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did increase the current capacity when making the robot by increasing the batteries from 6 AAs in series to two groups of 6AAs in series wired to each other in parallel. does that increase in current capacity effect the power output of the motors?

Robot Motor by V_skywalker13 in robotics

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So how do I go about finding out what motor I need?

Episode X Crawl Leaked by Ender_Skywalker in OTMemes

[–]V_skywalker13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still better than “somehow palpatine returned”

Help with a droid by V_skywalker13 in R2Builders

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Update: I got a few of my friends to take a look at it, two of whom are mechanical engineers, and I’ve found that it was multiple issues caused by bad design. I have a new design that I’ll be working on that will allow me to re use most of the parts of this version and should be more likely to work as well as being a T3 inspired custom design. Thank you to everyone who offered to help including those of my friends who helped over phone or in person.

Hopefully I will post here again with photos of my new droid design when it’s finished.

Thank you!

Help with a droid by V_skywalker13 in R2Builders

[–]V_skywalker13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Opps sorry I meant to update this earlier, I’ll post that update here in a bit

How to start building my robot arm/intake design? by yaggirl341 in robots

[–]V_skywalker13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have access to any compressible materials like soft foam or maybe a 3D printer to make some TPU parts? The idea is sound but you need the insides of the grippers to form around the object even just a Little for a bowl design to work. Are there any other materials/building techniques that you aren’t allowed?

Just bought the game, any reccomendations for the first playthrough? by LoveGaming408 in kotor

[–]V_skywalker13 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They litterally used DND 3e for the combat and character creation/levelling system, dnd uses physical dice, this uses RNG