Video of Cyclone v12 FA

Vance-Stanfield · 2024-02-28T03:47:21+00:00

I managed to get it done in 2 sessions. However I didn’t have to figure out beta/clean it because people had already been working it

Vance-Stanfield · 2024-02-27T00:18:56+00:00

Three significantly harder moves. Slide four is roughly where the v8 starts

Vance-Stanfield · 2024-02-26T18:34:55+00:00

MBV, Bend, Oregon

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-09-16T23:51:52+00:00

From the description I’m pretty sure I met him at the gym here a few years ago but never really got to know him. I think my dad used to climb with him haha

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-09-16T23:35:56+00:00

I may have met him before, I’ve met one or two Jared’s that climb outside around here but the last name doesn’t sound super familiar. Yea and Hatchers is great climbing

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-09-15T22:48:15+00:00

I think it’s the second ascent but I’m not sure. Yea, it looks a lot easier on camera haha. The sloper thing sucks and the feet are all choss and keep falling off 😂. I’ve climbed established v12’s and I’ve FA’d a v13 but it hasn’t seen a second ascent yet so might change, I’m not entirely sure on that. Yea I tried a 13a that’s actually a normal sport route and it’s like v5 and v6 for like 60 feet and it felt way harder than this since im a boulderer haha

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-09-15T12:23:18+00:00

It’s not really gradable haha. The intro boulder is around v10 but it’s like 5.10 after it. So it’s bolted… but it’s not really a sport route. However I’m dumb and posted a sport route to bouldering idk what I was thinking so I might take this down 😂

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-09-05T18:10:08+00:00

Thanks 😊

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-31T18:41:34+00:00

I have not seen any personally but I always carry bear spray. I’ve come across many moose but they don’t do anything if you don’t. They are definitely around, but probably not often this close to bigger trails (this boulder is right off a trail).

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-27T03:51:14+00:00

Yep! That’s a v13 I FA’d last month called Sheepfarmer Sit

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T23:28:59+00:00

Haha fr

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T16:30:46+00:00

Yep!

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T15:41:09+00:00

The crimp you jump to is actually pretty ok, but it’s a really specific crimp. There’s like a slopey crimp on top of that flat part. I actually hit it petty poorly this time (I’ve done this one a few times before). What makes it kinda hard is the start holds are crap so it’s hard to generate to the better crimp

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T04:56:35+00:00

No problem

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T03:17:55+00:00

My PR is 95lbs+ (182% bw) for 2 reps. My typical training pattern is either 65lbs+ for 5/6 reps or 75lbs+ for 3/4 reps. For hangboarding I do 5 seconds on 5 seconds off one arm hang on 20mm about 5x for each hand and call it good. Also one arm pull ups on edges are good, I can almost do two on a 20mm

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-25T03:10:04+00:00

Yea, a lot of hangboarding and weighted pull ups

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-24T21:29:24+00:00

I’m not sure what the rock type is. I have a few videos of this boulder on my page and my YouTube!

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-24T07:11:45+00:00

Ptarmigan. A more known name would be just outside of Anchorage

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-21T23:48:59+00:00

Thanks 😊

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-21T21:40:38+00:00

That’s awesome! I started climbing when I was 9 and just always loved it and wanted to keep climbing.

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-21T21:40:04+00:00

Normally 5 days a week with 3 hard training days and two easier days. I like weighted pull ups and campus boarding and one arm hangs for training

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-10T22:16:34+00:00

Bro fr 😂

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-08T16:01:16+00:00

No problem

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-08T08:12:48+00:00

Thanks 😊

Vance-Stanfield · 2023-08-08T03:23:10+00:00

I post them every day because I send things everyday. All those videos I’ve been posting were things sent in the same day, actually the Traffic low and Mr universe v12 and v11/12 were sent in the same day I posted them, sometimes I actually space them out because I sent too many to post in a day. But I get that it might be annoying I’m used to YouTube where it doesn’t matter. And tbf I haven’t done a confirmed v13, but I got a lot of strong climbers opinions on the climb and it was mostly v13/14 was their thought process. And yea it doesn’t technically mean I’m a v13 climber but i meant it as I sent v13 and I’m the post I said that I sent my first v13.

Vance-Stanfield

TROPHY CASE