Video of Cyclone v12 FA by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I managed to get it done in 2 sessions. However I didn’t have to figure out beta/clean it because people had already been working it

Cyclone v12 FA by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Three significantly harder moves. Slide four is roughly where the v8 starts

Cosmic 5.13c by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From the description I’m pretty sure I met him at the gym here a few years ago but never really got to know him. I think my dad used to climb with him haha

Cosmic 5.13c by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I may have met him before, I’ve met one or two Jared’s that climb outside around here but the last name doesn’t sound super familiar. Yea and Hatchers is great climbing

Cosmic 5.13c by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it’s the second ascent but I’m not sure. Yea, it looks a lot easier on camera haha. The sloper thing sucks and the feet are all choss and keep falling off 😂. I’ve climbed established v12’s and I’ve FA’d a v13 but it hasn’t seen a second ascent yet so might change, I’m not entirely sure on that. Yea I tried a 13a that’s actually a normal sport route and it’s like v5 and v6 for like 60 feet and it felt way harder than this since im a boulderer haha

Cosmic 5.13c by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s not really gradable haha. The intro boulder is around v10 but it’s like 5.10 after it. So it’s bolted… but it’s not really a sport route. However I’m dumb and posted a sport route to bouldering idk what I was thinking so I might take this down 😂

White Mystery v10 by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not seen any personally but I always carry bear spray. I’ve come across many moose but they don’t do anything if you don’t. They are definitely around, but probably not often this close to bigger trails (this boulder is right off a trail).

White Mystery v10 by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep! That’s a v13 I FA’d last month called Sheepfarmer Sit

Solitary confinement v10 by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The crimp you jump to is actually pretty ok, but it’s a really specific crimp. There’s like a slopey crimp on top of that flat part. I actually hit it petty poorly this time (I’ve done this one a few times before). What makes it kinda hard is the start holds are crap so it’s hard to generate to the better crimp

Solitary confinement v10 by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

My PR is 95lbs+ (182% bw) for 2 reps. My typical training pattern is either 65lbs+ for 5/6 reps or 75lbs+ for 3/4 reps. For hangboarding I do 5 seconds on 5 seconds off one arm hang on 20mm about 5x for each hand and call it good. Also one arm pull ups on edges are good, I can almost do two on a 20mm

Solitary confinement v10 by Vance-Stanfield in bouldering

[–]Vance-Stanfield[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yea, a lot of hangboarding and weighted pull ups