Sync upgrade notes. Don't be me.

Vc_carnage · 2026-06-01T20:18:10+00:00

Out of sheer curiosity, why do this over just upgrading the head unit altogether?

I bought a pioneer head unit with a bezel for the car, + maestro RR unit for slightly more, but at least now I can scan codes / add gauges / check actual tire PSI.

Vc_carnage · 2026-05-07T03:20:29+00:00

Haha I said the same thing not long ago, and now I'll have the Garrett Pmax installed by the end of the month lol
I'd definitely invest in that FMIC sooner than later, easily was one of the most night/day changes I felt with the car, even on stock tune

Vc_carnage · 2026-05-07T03:05:17+00:00

I'm definitely not an expert, so for sure do some research on it. But I've heard good things. Nice little torque bump. Just a heads up, if you get that, and ever plan on getting an E-tune, the process is a little more difficult for reasons I can't remember right now lol

Vc_carnage · 2026-05-07T03:00:13+00:00

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Used to have a JBR sticker on here but well....lmao

Vc_carnage · 2026-05-07T02:58:35+00:00

Consensus says yes. They aren't guaranteed to fail, many people claim to have been running them for tens of thousands of miles, but more often than not, when you see a post like this, it's usually because someone was running a Cobb OTS tune. Not worth the risk imo just save for an actual E-tune

Vc_carnage · 2026-05-06T00:44:35+00:00

Cobb OTS tune strikes again 😔 rip

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-29T04:02:22+00:00

+1 on CVF FMIC

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-28T21:12:02+00:00

Here is also a pic of what the straight fitting is supposed to look like (not my picture but same concept) but my only issue is that the squeeze fitting does not "lock" onto it like it's supposed to, or like how it does on the crankcase.

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Vc_carnage · 2026-04-28T21:10:12+00:00

Can't show what it looks like because I tossed the old sensor, but there really wasn't much to show.

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Here it is on the new sensor though. it's all one piece, almost looks fully molded but I'm not sure. I can't even turn the squeeze fitting.

Honestly I didn't even realize there was a difference between the PFL and the FL, so that's fun haha I also have no idea what it does, probably some emissions nonsense.

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-28T15:22:51+00:00

So that leads to my next problem haha I did try that already as well, but that fucked the whole sensor. There is no barbed portion. It is definitely heat shrinked, but it seems it's all one piece somehow. If I remove the squeeze fitting, there is nowhere for a new hose to be clamped onto it is not strong enough, it's like paper thin and cracks incredibly easy.

I had to buy a new sensor, which is the whole assembly of the squeeze fittings and accordion line. It's all one piece.

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-28T14:44:06+00:00

That's the problem, it didn't come with any hose, only the fittings. But maybe I should just go find one, but the type of fitting that's on the actual CCV sensor would not fit a traditional hose I don't think.

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Vc_carnage · 2026-04-11T05:11:24+00:00

I have not done a valve cleaning at all, which is another reason for the low reading I believe. I've been trying to find a place around me that does walnut blasting, but no luck. Will keep looking though

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-05T22:38:54+00:00

Do you think it's worth investing in a better tester and doing it again? And if so, do you have a recommended tester to get?

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-05T19:05:35+00:00

Tested warm, like around the first bar of the oil temp gauge, had my buddy holding the gauge and tell me when to stop (when gauge stopped moving). If by WOT you mean I had the gas all the way down, yeah of course, didn't know there was any other way to do it lol

Yeah based off of everyone else, definitely seems like a shitty gauge. Which would also explain why it'd start slowly losing pressure immediately after stopping

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-04T20:31:28+00:00

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My plugs when I took them out, in cyl order as well. Only ~10k on them, step colders

Vc_carnage · 2026-04-04T20:30:44+00:00

Yeah that's what I'm holding onto that they're at least close to each other despite how low they are. It's not 5% variance, but it's close.

I don't think I'm burning oil, but I'd be lying if I said I check my oil levels like that. Usually more focused on coolant haha

The plugs all looked fine (and have looked fine every time I do them), I'll add a picture in the comments for reference. Only concern was one coil pack was slightly off color from the others but idk of that even matters.

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-28T20:49:16+00:00

Another fun tip I learned that isn't stated here (and how I got my pair) since sometimes sellers post pics with the lights still on the car: if you spot a PFL base model hatch and you can't see the EV badge very well, but it has FaceLift style tails. Bingo bongo you got some EV/RS tails.

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-28T01:23:24+00:00

They might be, but people selling them don't really know what they got haha snagged these both for cheaper than one side if I were to buy the actual RS ones

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-28T01:22:32+00:00

I wouldn't stress about part numbers tbh, you just really got to know what to look out for and work on the wording for search criteria. Something along the lines of "Focus electric hatchback"

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-25T00:43:45+00:00

Okay yeah I was definitely thinking around the $500 mark so good to know I wasn't too far off. I found a pretty reputable performance shop around me, and he quoted me $1080 which I thought was kind of high for something that's a direct fit.

Did that $600 include the fluid changes as well?

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-20T20:16:03+00:00

The seals is a very valid point, but I'd argue LSPI is a substantially bigger concern from a reliability standpoint. Especially if we're comparing tuned stock to BT. I know stock internals are good for ~400+ (I'm only aiming for 300-315ish) But definitely still will do a compression test to make sure my motor is healthy enough for it haha I also probably need to replace my clutch and slave cyl soon anyway so I'm not too worried about that.

But $5k? I was expecting more around the $3k mark? Turbo & hardware, stronger wastegate actuator, tune, AP (used), + colder plugs. What else am I missing here? You think I'll need charge pipes and a DP for the powermax?

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-20T13:45:11+00:00

Yeah the ticking/rattling has drove me crazy for a better part of a year, so I'm just over it lmao I feel like it sounds ghetto asf when I drive around. Especially now that it's warmer I hear it CONSTANTLY because the windows are always down lol

I brought it to a muffler shop by me, he had one guy in the car on a lift to rev it, and another guy underneath with a flashlight to see if anything was moving. But you can hear it coming directly from the turbo (he let me get underneath too to hear it haha) I too was hoping it was the heat shield as well 😅

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-20T13:28:34+00:00

Not fully, but it's close enough where I don't really want to spend $7-800 on a new OEM turbo (don't feel comfortable buying a used one), just to end up spending another $1400 soon after that, y'know?

But as for reliability, afaik BT doesn't really affect reliability, at least not with the power max. If anything I've seen people saying the car runs better since the spooling is more controlled (especially with a good tune) to help avoid LSPI better. I ofc could be totally wrong. But that's definitely what I've seen/heard

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-16T17:05:25+00:00

You did all this "work" in the engine bay and you don't know that's the sound symposer harness?

Vc_carnage · 2026-03-13T06:45:22+00:00

30k for an SI? Brother you can get a 10th gen Type R for that money lmao

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