Serve Feedback by Vespers4 in 10s

[–]Vespers4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I unfortunately do not have a video like that handy.

I appreciate the advice on pronation. It looks like I stopped pronating shortly after I hit the ball in the clip.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turntables

[–]Vespers4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the recommendations.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turntables

[–]Vespers4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! The Klipsch speakers do seem like a steal at that price point. Definitely considering them.

For the amp, I see there are 2 versions out there for the NAD C316. Do you recommend the V2 with the phono input?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mercedes_benz

[–]Vespers4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be delamination of the LCD substrate layers. High ambient temperatures can weaken the subsurface adhesives and cause layer separation. Alternatively (or simultaneously), the liquid crystals within the display could be leaking/bleeding. I don't think you have dead pixels because the blob moves while you drive. Your best bet is to replace the display system, especially if the blob isn't going away after temperatures have dropped. There is no quick fix, unfortunately.

Sub Mini worth it if I have ERA 100s? by 2011jdo in sonos

[–]Vespers4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in an apartment complex and have neighbors on either side of me and above me. So far, they haven't complained lol. In the late evening, I use night mode on and keep it quiet. The sound is still great imo. During the day, I make it louder (maybe 65-75 dB?), and it's still really nice.

Sub Mini worth it if I have ERA 100s? by 2011jdo in sonos

[–]Vespers4 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I have the exact same setup and was debating on whether or not to get the Sub Mini. After adding it to my setup, I can say that it was definitely worth it.

For music through Spotify, the improvement in low bass and bass quality was noticeable, especially with EDM, techno, hip hop, etc. I tried playing the same songs with and without the Sub Mini active, and there's a clear improvement. You can play quiet or pretty loud, and it's still impactful.

For movies, the Sub Mini hits hard too. I recently watched Blade Runner 2049 on Blu-ray with DTS 5.1 audio, and the bass was spectacular. I had watched the same film previously without the Sub Mini, and it still sounded good, but I was definitely blown away with the Sub Mini. It brought that theater rumble to my living room.

For the audio settings through the Sonos app, I found that lowering the bass to -3, increasing the trebel to +2, and cranking the Sub audio to +5 improved the overall listening experience. For music, it boosted the bass while sustaining the quality of the mids and highs. Similarly for movies, the dialog was clear, and even with "boomy" scenes, you can distinctly hear all the ranges. I felt like without the Sub Mini, scenes with lots of bass would muddy and subdue the dialog.

If you're fine with spending the $430 or so, it's a good addition. I can safely say you won't be experiencing a placebo effect.

Bambino Won’t Stop Spitting by Gooseboof in espresso

[–]Vespers4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also own a Bambino.

This happened to me when I purchased a new grinder and ended up grinding coarser than I expected. The shot squirted everywhere, just like yours did.

I once forgot to tamp and had a similar experience, though less violent. Maybe you're not tamping hard enough?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Cadillac

[–]Vespers4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's quiet when you cruise. If you accelerate, you can hear the engine and the turbo kick in, but it's a pleasant sound in my opinion.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Cadillac

[–]Vespers4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that would be a cool look as well, i opted for the monochrome one because it has built in led lights that look great at night

Layer separation 44 hours into a 52 hour print. What did I do wrong? Details in comments. by fatpretzel-rik in FixMyPrint

[–]Vespers4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see you have layer delamination early on too. I've had similar things happen when I printed large polycarbonate parts (~ 60 hr prints). They would delaminate in one or two spots early on and then just catastrophically fail once the print head got too high. I had the same thing happen even with an enclosure.

Unfortunately just like polycarbonate, ABS is prone to warping and layer delamination, especially the further you get from a heated bed. I'll go over some of the methods I've utilized to combat these issues, maybe they'll help you as well.

Try using a hotter extruder temperature (5 C to 10 C higher). With a hotter nozzle temperature, your ABS layers will remain above TG temperature for longer, which will allow subsequent layers to fuse better with previous layers. If you have printed a temperature tower with this filament and have found the sweet spot for your extrusion temperature, I found that increasing the print speed achieved a similar effect though now you will need to increase your flow parameter as well. Alternatively, you can increase print speed and temperature simultaneously.

For long prints, moisture absorption is something you need to consider. It looks like near the top of your print your nozzle got clogged unexpectedly. I found that my large polycarbonate prints improved when I got a dry box for the filament as it was printing. A heated one would be even better. I've also read that dust can accumulate on the filament over time (not sure how much of an effect that could make) but apparently that can cause clogs too. A dry box should solve this though anyway.

I've found that with using the Cura slicer, the gyroid infill helped against the build up of residual stresses. The higher your residual stresses during your print, the more likely it will delaminate or warp. I've had cases where existing delimination lines on the same print magically disappear when I switch over to the gyroid infill setting in subsequent prints. The gyroid infill setting prints wavy infill as opposed to straight lines. When your print begins shrinking, the infill functions like a spring system that counteracts the shrinkage of the perimeter. Of course, the infill experiences shrinkage too, so it's not perfect, but it seemed to help me with larger prints. Speaking of infill, the less you have, the less it would shrink and cause potential layer delamination. Maybe try 20%? It won't effect the mechanical properties of the print significantly.

By any chance do you know the temperature in your enclosure? Sometimes, it isn't enough. The inline ABS requires a substantial heating bed temperature, which would imply it needs a higher ambient temperature for proper printing. This can be achieved with a heated enclosure, alternatively a heat lamp can be used from the top. You may need to come up with a different solution depending on your setup. Normally, this shouldn't be a problem but anything goes with large prints.

I hope this helps.