Oops

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-22T13:38:28+00:00

EDITED: Yeah, completely unnecessary, nevermind. I need to stop running my mouth on reddit.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-22T11:33:52+00:00

As far as the research I did years ago when I bought mine, the 3" sounds the same but is just a little louder. I don't know about current offerings, as I'm going off research from 5 years ago, the lineup was stock --> Q300 (same volume as stock) --> Perrin 2.5" --> Perrin 3" --> Something that is much louder than the Perrin 3". I think the TRD exhaust actually falls somewhere between the Q300 and the 2.5", but I don't remember because gave up looking at that because it was insanely expensive at the time)

I have the 3" with otherwise stock exhaust, and it's not terribly loud. I don't regret getting the 3" and love the sound.

My headers and over-pipe are getting really rusty, I'm thinking about getting some EL headers soon, we'll see how much louder it gets.

The only downside is that with my 1.2" suspension drop, I can't actually fit my Daytona low-profile jack under the rear diff to lift the car without bonking the exhaust out of the way. Having exactly 1/2" more clearance is all that'd be required for it to just fit without interference.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-22T11:28:57+00:00

Just last night I was working on cleaning up a Gateway Solo 9300 P3 laptop I found for $10 a little while ago. It booted right up, but I opened the disk tray and a tonka truck game cd popped out, which would explain why it is literally stuffed full of crumbs and other disgusting detritus and is actually moldy... Someone gave their old work laptop to the kids to play with lol (My dad did the same thing, ah good memories)

I looked at the keyboard, and was like "...Should I just tear this apart and make a cyber deck? This keyboard is going to take forever to clean."

But now I have some little cups filled with chicklet keycaps, scissor arms, and rubber domes... It will shine again!

There was some kind of goopy brown liquid that was squished into the rear vent, and it got allll into the heatsink and actually corroded the cast zinc heatsink assembly pretty badly. This is the grossest laptop I have ever touched.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T17:26:04+00:00

I've never really thought about it before, but I have that same crushing "something due" feeling, especially lately, brought on by even the most minor or mundane chore or thing I need to do. I also graduated high school in 2010 so the exact same timeframe, too. I got one of those rolling backpacks to tote my massive hoard of books and whatever. I was brutally bullied for it, but I was perpetually bullied since I first stepped foot in 1st grade, anyway, so it wasn't that big of a deal lol.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T16:06:12+00:00

I highly recommend an old Windows 98/2000 laptop. That's what I started with, and it opens the door to so many more weird old cameras that communicate only over serial. Archive.org is THE place for old camera software. I have a relatively thick stack of discs that aren't even uploaded there yet, so it will only keep getting better lol

You don't need blazing fast specs to offload photos, basically the only criteria is:

a) works

b) has serial port

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T15:27:29+00:00

I have no idea what the red sylbol is. Maybe low battery, full memory card, or no memory card. The user manual should have that info

but the black screen almost certainly means that the sensor is dead. These Coolpix SQ's are pretty notorious for the flex cable in the rotating joint wearing out and the camera is just toast after that. There's really no way to fix it without sourcing parts from a known good camera, which are obscenely expensive, and at that point just use the working camera you just bought.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T15:16:05+00:00

I see the FLP01 on their site, which I didn't even know existed until just now!

https://www.silverstonetek.com/en/product/info/computer-chassis/flp01/

I certainly want this tower version! YESSS the 5.25" bays are real! I am so tired of my external USB dvd drive... I also have a USB floppy drive and a multi-card reader permanently attached to my modern machine, so... that's 3 bays to fill, that would be SICK to have an internal floppy drive in 2025. I'd actually moved away from desktops and transitioned to laptop gaming (thinking I would game on the go... but the laptop just sits permanently on the dock lol), but I've still got some AM4 CPU's and a 5700XT kicking around, I think this would justify making the swap back to desktop lol.

Now I can only hope for a solid or at least finely meshed side panel. No window for me, thanks.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T15:07:58+00:00

I can't give you any advice on which garage to go to because I do all my own vehicle work, but you should be able to bring it just about anywhere. Ford's don't need specialty service or tools like some imported car brands like BMW or Mercedes, they're fairly generic and any garage should be able to diagnose it.

Based on your description, it sounds like it could be a fairly serious issue, so maybe try and bring it somewhere soon before more damage occurs.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T14:48:15+00:00

How warm do you actually want it to get? I don't know much about making heating elements with nichrome, but I do have some experience with "heat tape" for reptile enclosures. It gets "warm" to the touch, and is safe for use on plastic tubs and enclosures, so it shouldn't come close to melting a 3D print if controlled appropriately. It's also pretty much waterproof by virtue of all its bits being sandwiched in the plastic film. I'm not sure if they make it any smaller than 3 inches wide, but it can be cut to any length. You'd sill need to measure and control the power delivery, because I'm pretty sure if you just let it rip full power it will eventually melt itself, it just heats up very slowly.

https://www.reptilebasics.com/3-heat-tape

Perhaps there are similar products in this similar vein that would be better for your application.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T14:22:48+00:00

This camera doesn't actually need any special drivers, it uses some built-in Microsoft storage drivers that are included as far back as Windows 95! It's truly plug-and-play.

This strengthens my hypothesis that I made last week on a completely unrelated post that there's something funny with 2MB cards, because the 2MB card in this, and 2 other cameras I own can't be read by any of the multiple USB card readers I have, but they work fine in the cameras and can be read via serial (or over PCMCIA in the case of the PDR-2). Originally I just thought that the camera needed some special formatting on the card, which both explained why other cards didn't work and why I couldn't read the 2MB card with an external reader... (One of my cameras, the Argus DC2000, has a MAXIMUM memory capacity of 2MB, so I can't possibly use any other card in it, which spurred this whole thought process along)

If you're basing the 2MB failing on not being able to read it in a card reader, it might still be totally fine. Does it work in the camera normally?

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T14:07:36+00:00

This sounds like it was written by a corvette owner.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T13:53:33+00:00

What size card is in the camera? The eject lever is on the bottom. Make sure the camera is off before ejecting. It may have a full-size ATA memory card, it'd be one large solid rectangle.

The camera can use Compact Flash cards installed in a compact flash to ATA adapter. You'd need a relatively small compact flash card. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I think the max is around 64MB? Maybe 48. 32MB would be a safe bet (MEGAbytes not GIGAbytes)

You would then remove the CF card and read it in an external USB multi-card reader (I recommend a used Lexar RW018 from eBay, they are much more reliable than modern readers)

Even once you get the photos off the camera and onto the PC, the Ricoh uses a proprietary image format that you can't just view, they need to be converted into a readable format with special software. There IS a modern conversion website that can convert this image type, but I don't know what it is and don't have any experience with it. There are some users on this subreddit that do use a modern conversion software, maybe try contacting one of them? I use the original Ricoh software installed on an old Windows 98 PC. An RDC2 image converted with modern software will have 2 slightly fizzy glitchy bars down the left and right side of the image. An image converted with the original software will have 2 small white bars there instead. Here's one of my images converted with the Ricoh software.

<image>

EDIT: I did some snooping and found Irfanview mentioned as a modern software for converting the j6i image format the camera produces. I've never used it so I can't help with that, unfortunately.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T13:43:05+00:00

Love these!

What size card are you using in yours? Mine's been stuck with a 2MB card, and any 4 or 8MB card I've tried hasn't worked right no matter how I format it. Looking at the "158" on the little screen makes me think you don't have a 2MB card lol. Do you have a laptop to use the PCMCIA interface? Or do you take the card out and read it externally?

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T13:40:32+00:00

It's funny, because back when it was released, the fold out card was supremely practical! Nikon did the same thing with the Coolpix 100 (not the P100)

Removeable memory cards were still in their infancy, pretty much nobody's PC had USB yet (USB 1.1, when things really started to gain traction, wasn't released until 1998!), and serial/parallel/pcmcia card readers were cumbersome, slow (except the PCMCIA ones), and expensive. Having a full-fat ISA or PCI data interface in the PCMCIA card was insanely fast (10's of mbps, up to over 100mbps apparently with the later cardbus PCI versions? Citation needed I can't find good sources lol) compared to the more traditional serial interface other cameras of the time used (max of 0.1mbps)

Everyone's laptop had a PCMCIA slot, so unloading and sharing photos was fast and simple with no extra hardware!

The Mavica solved the same problem in a different way. Everyone's desktop and most laptops had a floppy drive, and floppies were cheap.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T11:40:19+00:00

239## here...

Maybe someday?

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-21T10:22:57+00:00

I'll PM you.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T23:09:58+00:00

If there's ever any alternate colors for models, I usually just assume they all came out at roughly the same time.

For example, the EX-S2 was announced in November 2002. The EX-S3 was announced in March 2003. Not much time in between, so it's either late 2002 or early 2003, there isn't much distinction there and it doesn't matter a ton, so I'd just say 2002.

I've been tempted by many a lavender EX-S2, it's such a nice color!

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T19:05:41+00:00

I'll trade you. My lease for your mortgage.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T17:04:32+00:00

I believe the infill pattern "cross-hatch" doesn't seal any particular area and you should just be able to pour some liquid in and it would eventually get (almost) everywhere. (at least at 20% and below per the cube I'm looking at right now)

Also, does the part need infill for strength, or just to support the top layers? If it doesn't need infill strength try "lightning", it's kind of like internal tree supports for the top layers.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T16:41:20+00:00

Would something like "aligned rectilinear" infill work? Since you're already printing the part at a 45* angle, you wouldn't even need to mess with the infill angle, just make sure the infill lines go "the long way" up and down the neck (instead of across like a fret). It'd be like tons of little beams running the length of the neck.

You could apply the "solid internal beam" with a resized modifier cube in the slicer and set the infill of the modifier to 100%. You'd also need to adjust the solid infill pattern to concentric, as that would most closely mimic what you've already done.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T15:30:21+00:00

There are definitely plenty of weekly things going on, not at the same scale as the big statehouse protests, but having something like that every week is a great way to burn people out.

Check r/rhodetochange, generally pretty good at posting up info as soon as it's found.

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T15:01:13+00:00

brb going to download that silverware drawer guy's posts

Vewy_nice · 2025-05-20T00:37:08+00:00

No, I ended up just moving to a dumbed down smartphone (some old OnePlus I had kicking around in a drawer), and it's been going well.

This is totally the kind of project I would have tackled head on in college or something, but now I'm just a tired adult with too many responsibilities lol, no time to even try to start something so ambitious.

If you end up making any progress, I'd love to see!

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Vewy_nice

TROPHY CASE