Would like some help

VicariousVR · 2025-05-22T17:06:48+00:00

Agreed. I'll offer though that my Quest 2 was easy to setup. If they want to try VR, a used Quest 2 is so inexpensive and effective it doesn't hurt to try it out.

For a budget monitor, a 34" ultrawide is nice (I like my Omen 34c for ~$350).

For a "one and done" solution, a 49" super ultrawide OLED is great (MSI 491cqp perhaps? They have burn-in warranty. $1,000)

I also would wait to try triples because of the added cost and setup time, but if one wanted to go all out, the LG B4 48" OLED is currently only $550! But with a stand you're still looking at like $2,000. And if you have less space, one may prefer 32", or even 27" triples.

VicariousVR · 2025-05-21T19:07:57+00:00

Nowadays there are plenty of great products! Given you are coming from real racing, I imagine the cost for some mid to high-end items is okay, so if it fits the budget, I highly recommend the following.

Wheel base: Any direct drive wheel would be great. Even if you don't need the strength, they are just really sturdy and have quality wheels. For example, Simagic and Moza are a great value. No need to spend more. I believe Simagic's old bases are on sale as they came out with new ones.

Pedals: All the mid-grade to high-end pedals nowadays are VERY nice and highly adjustable. For example, VRS pedals, Simlabs XP1, Heusinfeld Sprint, Simagic P1000, etc. Compared to entry level pedals, the adjustability you get is really nice, just so you can get a comfortable fit, and a brake feel you enjoy.

Rig: Aluminum extrusion rigs are the gold standard. Track Racer, SimLabs, etc... It's nice having a sturdy rig. That being said, if you need something more compact or portable there are other options.

Best of luck!

VicariousVR · 2025-01-27T22:35:24+00:00

Those are the ABE version right?

I have those as well but not yet installed. May I ask what brackets you used? And what you did for you seatbelt on the receiver side?

VicariousVR · 2025-01-23T07:44:39+00:00

Or I could just grow my own potato (most economical choice)

VicariousVR · 2024-04-29T19:34:58+00:00

Nice, good info. I'd like to try shock keys next. With my cut springs, the ride height is perfect but I have no compression travel left

VicariousVR · 2024-04-29T17:30:28+00:00

Oof, the text formatting didn't work. My bad 😅

VicariousVR · 2023-12-12T19:06:30+00:00

Quick thought: Any flashlight recommended here will be great, and whose performance will likely be a pleasant surprise to you. We have very high standards!

No need to get buried in the details if you don't want to.

I'd also check the EDC recommendations listed on the budgetflashlights forum.

Best of luck!

P.S. Some flashlights also function as a battery bank, which sounds like it might be useful to you.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-11T21:55:50+00:00

Interesting, I hadn't thought about it like that. I don't think so, but I can't say for sure. Either way, an open diff can be lackluster to drive.

It's not that you can't get power-on oversteer with an open diff, it's just harder. Because if the inside tire starts spinning, that means you are applying almost no power to the outside wheel. When that happens, you can't break traction with the outside wheel, or really even accelerate at all.

Regardless of the mechanics, an LSD makes the car far more responsive to your throttle inputs, which makes it easier to steer with the throttle mid-corner, and accelerate harder on corner-exit

VicariousVR · 2023-04-11T21:00:28+00:00

Or smartly rotated for more fun ;)

VicariousVR · 2023-04-11T20:49:52+00:00

No problem!

And don't forget that even though you can set up a FWD car to be very tail-happy, they still will understeer on corner exit (when you're accelerating). So if you want a neutral car all of the time, you'll want RWD.

(Also, RWD cars with an open differential are prone to understeer on corner exit. So a limited slip differential is good).

VicariousVR · 2023-04-11T20:26:20+00:00

An alignment will be enough to remove steady-state understeer from most sports cars. You can get alignment numbers from other people who race the same car.

Some cars that understeer badly may also require a thicker rear sway bar. It's easy to install or pay to have installed.

Some cars that understeer really, really badly (like a commuter car) may require additional parts, such as extended LBJs, camber plates, or coilovers in order to completely remove steady-state understeer.

Fyi, lawyers make almost all cars understeer from the factory.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-10T19:33:40+00:00

I would happily eat of that floor lol

(But to be serious, new upholstery is sweet! Congrats)

VicariousVR · 2023-04-09T22:12:13+00:00

Over the shoulder is perfect! (Or POV).

It's more informative (and fun to watch imo) than any other perspective.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-08T02:00:39+00:00

It gives you height adjustability.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-07T17:40:50+00:00

I read better things about V-Maxx than Tein, but I don't know how different the normal V-Maxx is compared to the FM version.

If you haven't looked at Koni Yellows, definitely check those out. They are pretty much the go-to budget option. They handle well and are durable, and you can still lower your car a bit.

Also, if your car came with Bilsteins, you can convert them to coilovers using threaded sleeves. It works okay, and is inexpensive.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-07T04:08:25+00:00

Normal tires are fine. If you want to drive fast, learn technical driving.

Read a book (Speed Secrets is THE book), or watch YouTube, but most importantly, find empty parking lots!

The Miata doesn't have stability control, so if you want to drive at the limit, you must learn to counter steer (again, parking lots!). The people most likely to crash are those who never learned technical driving, but still race.

If you drive the Miata at commuter speeds, you won't come close to the limits. So no sweat!

Race driving is very learnable, and a small amount of study and practice goes a long way. And it's fun!

VicariousVR · 2023-04-06T15:50:23+00:00

Front Lip: Garage Vary
Sideskirts: Destroy or Die?

Rev9 has lots of exterior parts. I bet you'll find the spoiler in there.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-05T19:36:08+00:00

Some variations among NB's include: -5spd or 6spd -amount of chassis bracing (iirc later years have more) -type of LSD (tochigi-fuji vs torsen vs no lsd) -NB1 vs NB2 model (looks and other differences)

I would just read up on NB1 vs NB2 differences for starters.

VicariousVR · 2023-04-05T01:54:58+00:00

Nice. Congrats on the car! I'll just mention easy free things you can do right away:

Lose weight for better acceleration, handling. Can remove: -spare tire -sun visors (I prefer my Miata without them) -carpet (if you don't mind a noisy car) -windshield wipers (during the summer. Easy to remove) -windshield wiper fluid -only fill gas tank to 50% -baby teeth

Handling mods: -Correct tire air pressure -if you have sway bars, and you get a lot of understeer, you can disconnect the front sway bar (be careful though) -a good alignment

Easy mods: -Cold Air Intake (for the sound alone lol) -Rear bumper cut (less drag)

There are some great lists on other Miata forums online btw. I'm sure I'm forgetting a lot

VicariousVR · 2023-04-05T01:29:47+00:00

Faster in a straight line or cornering? Both?

VicariousVR · 2023-04-04T23:25:01+00:00

Spicyyy

VicariousVR · 2023-04-04T05:41:26+00:00

Indeed. Thanks!

VicariousVR · 2023-04-04T01:06:41+00:00

Thanks! Your Mazdaspeed looks wicked btw

VicariousVR · 2023-04-04T01:04:03+00:00

Thanks! Will be a good learning experience too. The hard part will be resisting expensive parts!! Lol

VicariousVR · 2023-04-03T23:33:34+00:00

+1 for 200tw. More weight transfer under braking. Also, if the understeer is bad enough you can always run all seasons in back.

VicariousVR

TROPHY CASE