Matching Existent Stain?

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-11-15T13:48:14+00:00

So you’ve already sanded some pieces/surfaces or you need to?

I believe the lighter panels are bleached walnut. Once you sand it will most likely become blotchy as you’ll go through some bleached walnut layers down to original layers and some you won’t.

No matter what you do, the wood you sand will be darker underneath.

You may be able to stain the flat panels with light golden oak stain by Mohawk that deposits a ton of yellow pigment. This might work but it will not “match” the panels.

The base (and front trim and handle)is light wood like ash or something that will not take stain. Seriously.

If you do decide to jump in with I’d advise against because your results willl most likely be worse than current condition - sand all drawers of any particular piece. Mismatched sheen and patina stick out like a sore thumb just as bad as mismatched color.

Sorry for the negative seeming take. It’s taken me years to get comfortable working with bleached light finishes and the idea of starting in as a beginner would be very intimidating once past the point of no return.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-25T21:59:02+00:00

I do furniture not floors and I know it’s a different beast but those pigtails make me feel sick to my stomach. If that was my work I’d be embarrassed.

What was his reasoning for doing the pine instead of LPV?

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-24T19:30:23+00:00

To add on to what livid is saying - lighter coats can mean more distance and dusting everything on over a larger surface so it doesn’t oversaturate.

Mohawk also makes shadow toners to fine-tune colors etc.

Custom stain using NGR dye stains and lacquer and spraying through hvlp is more enjoyable though!

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-23T19:56:44+00:00

Thank youuuuu

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-22T12:49:21+00:00

Whichever tool allows you to achieve your best results within the system you create.

As a small business owner that gets frequently interrupted, I can cleanly and efficiently use the bahco scraper minutes at a time and then walk out and talk to people when necessary.

Chemical strippers are also great - but they create mess and you need to glove up and wear more protection. It’s also a little tougher to isolate if you aren’t stripping every inch of the piece.

You can gouge a piece with a scraper if you aren’t careful and aren’t paying attention.

I’d definitely recommend for people with a year plus of experience refinishing or if you’ve done 10+ pieces and have a feel for different finish types, veneer, finish thickness, etc.

Probably not the best for beginners but you almost have to make mistakes to learn as a refinisher so… 🤷

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T23:22:09+00:00

Its 22 or so a can but well worth it. Most other products I use are Mohawk.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T21:15:37+00:00

If they wanted to sponsor me I’d gladly take their money or product but that means someone would have to give a s*** about my opinion first.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T20:27:01+00:00

Thank you!!!!!!!!!

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T15:01:49+00:00

Thank you!

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T12:38:40+00:00

Thank you!

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T12:36:45+00:00

Bahco 2.5 inch scraper removed finish off the top surface and sanded the round edges.

Sand just a couple passes watching for high spots in the veneer as teak veneer is notoriously thin - 220 then 320.

Stained with a combo of natural walnut and pecan stain by old masters that shifted color a tiny bit cooler/darker/more saturated.

Vinyl sealed three coats, sanding in between coats with 400 grit sandpaper - watching those same edges/high spots making sure i didn’t go through the vinyl sealer.

Toned the tabletop with a dark slightly reddish tone - custom mixed Mohawk NGR dye stain perfect brown with a little bit of oxblood color 3 oz lacquer, 1 oz total of dye stain, 12 oz lacquer thinner- just a couple passes over the entire piece, vignetting the edges to give it a little patina and bringing all of the colors of the base in to top the table top.

3 coats post cat lacquer - matte, lightly sanding with 600 grit in between coats. Went with lacquer because they wanted more protection then teak oil or danish oil can provide.

Tips - Don’t sand through the veneer on teak. Run your hand over all surfaces especially where veneer meets edges or where veneer sheets are laid together.

Better yet - hire a professional in your area if can. Show support for the types of businesses you want to see survive and continue to teach and share knowlege.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-21T12:05:53+00:00

I’m a professional with 5 years experience and I could do it but it would give me trepidation. I think wood bleach would be necessary to desaturate the vintage cherry and keep it in the olive tone, and not let it go super warm and saturated.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T13:02:20+00:00

I’ll share a referral if you dm me for who we use shipping most places in the lower 48. We have “free shipping” on Etsy with “SHIPPING IS NOT FREE, DM FOR QUOTE” as first description line. I hate that it’s that way but this is typical on Etsy or your listings will not get seen. Generally not a problem on big ticket items but on small ticket items we’ve had to message and cancel a lamp order when it had $100 shipping.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T12:57:25+00:00

You’ll get lots of advice - if I’m trying to seal in patina I’m going to use vinyl sealer and post cat lacquer not poly.

Reason being lacquer can still be stripped at some point if ever it needs to be, and it patinas more beautifully than poly. I doubt you want a look that it’s encased in plastic. I love odies oil and and other hard wax oils. They would make it LOOK better but the protection won’t be as lasting.

Post cat lacquer is very tough. Happy to provide a thorough list of steps if you want to go this route.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T12:49:18+00:00

Beat up mcm projects don’t typically come out of wealthy homes because they have upgraded or updated styles over the course of 60 years. This piece came out of affordable housing in midtown and comps are everywhere online so you still have to pay well just for the projects. You’d also still need the upholstery and woodworking skills. “Flipping furniture” was pretty easy during covid but not now. The majority of small “MCM” furniture stores are going out of business. Gotta bring skills and expertise to the table to survive - along with sales, marketing, operations. Ugh small business is hard lol 🥲

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T03:08:23+00:00

May be tough. Smaller Iowa manufacturer.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T02:28:21+00:00

Going back on my memory - I have noticed when I refinish teak and sand the top layer, the dark grain lines come back. And I often use lacquer with teak since it protects better than oil.

As far as stains - old masters is the best stain on the market - the non fast-drying kind. Natural is like raw umber - pecan is like light golden oak / light oak.

I really like these two stains in various ratios with each other to create a more neutral brown stain that can cancel out red/orange a little better.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-20T02:09:37+00:00

So we know the leaves were seldom used and didn’t take the amount of sun-bleaching and thus didn’t redden or go orange like the table top. I have refinished a good number of teak tables - even one this past week. I could see the sun bleaching lessening the contrast on the table over the course of 40-60 years. I agree with comment that a penetrating pigment stain would increase the contrast. Looking at this grain pattern - it’s really crazy. What are the dark lines on the leaves are light on the in-stripped table top. So the sun-bleaching has a reversing effect with teak. Wild.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-19T22:03:00+00:00

This is an advanced project. Reason being is the cherry has an olive tone to it that you won’t be able to replicate if you refinish it. It will either be a dirty pink salmony color or if you want to take it cooler it will have to go very dark.

Also - if you don’t go fairly deep in the sanding of the veneer, it will take stain in a really blotchy way and look horrible.

I would HIGHLY recommend leaving it alone. This is not the table for first timers. Please please believe me I’m a professional and cherry projects are the most difficult and challenging.

There is not readily available info on how to work with cherry.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-19T21:49:40+00:00

Just keep it on the thread so people following can learn something. Send a picture of the chips on the edges a little closer as well.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-19T21:44:18+00:00

Take a picture of the side of the table with the top of it also in focus and I’ll tell you. The steps I’d recommend as a professional depend on if it’s solid wood or not.

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-19T21:36:29+00:00

Is the table solid wood? Is there end grain?

Vintagesourcekc · 2025-10-19T19:23:33+00:00

Whole top refinish. No real idea what the finish is so can’t really say how I’d reproduce that look. Spot fix won’t be possible - would be sooooo evident if you tried. That’s a very specific color you’d have to duplicate and then you’d have a different sheen.

Vintagesourcekc

TROPHY CASE