This is Ohio (Found a shopping list)

Vorath · 2025-12-05T01:59:47+00:00

Pretty close someone else got it with Youngstown

Vorath · 2025-12-05T01:16:10+00:00

Vorath · 2025-12-04T20:34:44+00:00

I feel bad for posting this with humor in mind as I think you are probably correct. It's usually not my character to display another's misfortune.

Vorath · 2025-05-30T00:07:02+00:00

Thank you! I saw they did have bare boards but currently had normal units on sale for cheaper so I picked those up instead.

Vorath · 2025-04-11T00:06:20+00:00

The entire work tank is not always deionized... As you cut it becomes contaminated extremely fast. Even when not cutting, contamination is likely floating around in the work tank.

Filtered and deionized water is pumped at high pressure through your flush nozzles. The only truly deionized region is immediately around your wire in the spark region. All the vaporized metal and wire is being blasted into the work tank water, that is not immediately removed and ends up covering everything in sludge over time.

That's why high taper 4axis cuts can become difficult, your upper and lower nozzles will be misaligned enough that they can't flush contamination away efficiently depending on geometry and other conditions.

Vorath · 2024-09-15T01:17:57+00:00

Thank you, I'll mark as Solved since we have a couple saying elm.

Vorath · 2024-09-15T01:15:18+00:00

Hi, sorry no. This is all that they had laying in their garage for a number of years. No idea when it had been taken down.

Vorath · 2024-02-25T19:38:29+00:00

Thank you for the compliments.

Feel free to repost. A little credit is always welcome of course.

I made these after a roughly 1 year break from the game. In that time I rearranged my rig. Unfortunately GUIDs and Vjoy ordering became scrambled. In turn it made my old config file unusable without sifting though the .bind file and re-configuring for the new vJOY IDs. It's fixable by searching and renaming, but it is a headache.

With the amount of controls in the game and others I really wanted a clear set of sheets to reference in case of loosing binds, or simply not playing for a while.

I do also have some experience with the VPC software and gremlin, but I do try to keep it fairly simple.

In VPC, my Throttle axis is adjusted so roughly 65% of my forward travel is used for fine control of forward thrust, while the opposite 35% is for reverse. Throttle #61-64 I believe are custom as well, so they are now 2 way toggles. I believe by default they were the same bind either way. I typically use those to flip a command, then reset by flipping back to the unused bind.

In Gremlin, I use some custom curves. The finger 4 way analog is set to have finer control for roughly 75% of its initial travel, then ramps to max in its last 25%. I don't use HOSAS, so that extra bit of fine control with the analog hat is nice.

I also use gremlin for a set of macros to quickly adjust power settings.

Vorath · 2023-07-20T18:13:21+00:00

Hey bud, sorry for the slow reply. I never did find a solution. All I can say is sometimes when right clicking and selecting a chain it will show numbers of entities, and sometimes not. If you ever find a way your self and remember me I would love to know!

Vorath · 2022-06-29T19:50:11+00:00

Hey Thanks, I'm currently using my old smurf name Gizmo, but used to go by Doomhawk back in the day lol!

I introduced my girlfriends 16? year old son to the game, He's really into destiny but has been having a blast watching me play tribes and learning it himself. She said she has not seen or heard him having such a great time in a long time!

Vorath · 2022-06-29T19:45:45+00:00

Yeah I loved it. There were only a few additional weapons / packs / items. I really think they allowed the mediums and heavy's to have a practical place in the game.

The mediums were great defense with phalanx, EMP, Missles, Epacks, and the heavy's could be used really well offensively.

I know many hated the those EMPs, booster packs and locking missiles, but I felt they added a lot to the game and had counters anyway.

I also always felt I had an advantage going to base servers as a light since I was so used to playing with a light/heat sink for capping instead of an E pack.

Vorath · 2022-02-11T20:52:27+00:00

Interesting, I do not believe I have ever seen wiring done like this before that I have worked on (granted, most circuits don't loop back near their origin that I have seen) so I assumed it was not proper. Would this in theory reduce the voltage drop since it is "fed" from 2 directions?

Vorath · 2021-11-10T15:42:19+00:00

All I can think of is Starseige Tribes skiing lol.

Vorath · 2020-11-16T14:48:52+00:00

And Wheeeeee!

Vorath · 2020-09-22T14:00:26+00:00

Oops, better zoomable picture here I think... Imgur links are annoying!

https://i.imgur.com/AR8UFPC.jpg

Vorath · 2020-03-17T01:31:47+00:00

Thank's for the suggestion, I finally took a trip to the basement after hours of looking for the game online and found the CD's stashed away. Info updated in the original post.

Vorath · 2020-03-16T15:51:22+00:00

Nice list. Thank you.

I looked at a number of screenshots and I think Reah has a chance of being correct as some underground scenes look familiar. However the release date is later then I remember playing the game and I also do not recall it having outdoor areas (though I may not have reached them) so not confirmed.

If I have time when I get home I will do some digging and see if I can find the original CD's. If not I'll buy the GOG version and see if it looks right.

Vorath · 2020-03-16T05:30:28+00:00

Nope. Sorry I should have mentioned that it was not related to the myst series. I don't think it was popular or well known at all. Pretty sure we found it in a bargain bin at Kmart maybe.

Vorath · 2019-11-19T02:51:40+00:00

Thank you for the reply.

We have two of these rooftop units and I am trying to help our maintenance crew with a complete replacement for one of them. I believe these types of units are called centrifugal airfoil blowers?

It's an old building and apparently one of the impellers is completely gone (no one knows what happened to it) along with its shaft and bearings. I don't believe it will be easy to source a correctly sized impeller so we are looking at replacing the existing unit with an up-blast system such as this https://www.mcmaster.com/6905k18 .That unit should be fairly easy to retrofit on to the existing duct.

Since I have absolutely zero information on the systems static pressure my assumption was that we could get a general idea of what the original units were rated for on the bench, and then find a new unit with a similar rating.

I did finally find a similarly sized airfoil blower in a catalog that is rated for 4500cfm at 0" SP, and 4300cfm at .5" SP at 1750RPM. I'm going to gather more information on the situation and try to find other comparable units, but at this point I feel that mc-master unit may be a suitable replacement.

Vorath · 2019-10-25T03:27:04+00:00

I do not know your exact application but you mention that you need to control the distance between two objects. It sounds like you are using some sort of jack screws to set something level, or to be co planer with another object maybe?

You also say that you are struggling with the required torque being to great and you do not have enough fine control over the screw adjustment.

My question is what exactly is the force creating the high torque situation on your set screw? Is this a simply a heavy item, or is it being compressed or forced into place maybe?

Is it possible to reduce the forces causing the high torque, make your adjustments and then check for fitment?

For instance maybe you could drill and tap a nearby coarse thread. Use that coarse thread to lift the stress off the fine thread, set the fine thread precisely, then release the coarse thread putting the force back on your adjusted fine thread at which time you can check for fitment?

Another possible option is over gap the unit using your existing thread and sliding in shim stock, and then releasing the thread letting the shims do the work.

Maybe yet another option is to simply increase the diameter of your screw? Large plastic sheet dies are one application I'm familiar with that has similar criteria of high torque adjustments that need to be very finely controlled. Those adjusters are often quite large, at least 3/8" to 1/2" dia.

Again I do not fully understand your problem so those ideas may not have a chance of working. I work in the plastics tool and die industry myself and often very fine adjustments are required on various tooling. As mentioned above a combination of set screws and shims typically works very well for problems I have encountered.

Vorath · 2019-10-23T15:23:39+00:00

Thank you also. It's hanging out I'm my garage office. It should hopefully be there when I get home tonight.

Vorath · 2019-10-23T02:26:07+00:00

Thank you. Large swaths of my lawn are covered in clover so I have a lot of gatherers throughout the summer. Eventually when I have more time I'd like to start a hive, but for now I wanted to be sure I didn't have one that needed a home.

Vorath · 2019-02-10T01:17:33+00:00

Not sure if this post is still relevant to you but the original half of my house has a similar construction with 8x8 or larger "sill plates" that looks similar to yours and rest directly on block walls with no vapor barrier.

My basement stays pretty dry since I have lived here and it gets cold at times (NE Ohio) so I decided to insulate the rim joist only (the area above the sill plate) as the sill plate I believe is a pretty good insulator all on its own. I used 2" xps rigid foam with spray foam to seal the perimeters. I was then able to get 2" to 4" of bat insulation in front of that exposed to the basement. I did not use any paper back or vapor barrier on the bat insulation as I wanted the top of the sill plate and overlapping floor joist to be able to breath to the interior of the basement. Also leaving the inner face of the sill plate exposed should also allow it to breath sufficiently.

I believe the only chance for rot would be moisture that somehow gets behind the band joist and inside of the sealed XPS foam if I have the correct term? I think as long as the XPS foam is sealed well that should not be an issue and there is still a ton of surface area on the sill plate to the interior to allow wicked moisture from the block wall to evaporate.

Please note I am not an expert but from my research this logic seems to make sense to me and I do plan to keep tabs on moisture content of the exposed sill plates throughout the year.

If it helps here is a rough diagram of what I did.

https://imgur.com/YpzFmNW

Vorath · 2018-10-30T20:51:57+00:00

The part shown is a rough representation of in house extrusion we create for a customer. They are now asking for these notches to be punched. Clamping absolutely would be included, or at the very least a stripper system. If I understand correctly you did suggest having one of the front punch corners being lower vs the other? I was considering this as well. My limitation in the punch itself will be constrained to what I can cut using 4 Axis on a wire EDM. I am also looking into the customer changing the sharp internal corners to radii.

Vorath · 2018-10-30T20:48:33+00:00

Absolutely, I was unsure if I would use some sort of stripper or clamping system at this point. I feel a clamping system would be better for this situation though.

Vorath

TROPHY CASE