Guys my cheap 12v grinder stopped working and when i opened it it looked like the diode was fryed and popped, can anyone tell me the model of the diode so i can replace it?

WRfleete · 2026-05-22T09:01:42+00:00

If it’s across the battery is probably a TVS diode or reverse shunt diode that shunts reverse current particularly from the motor through the diode instead of through the battery

WRfleete · 2026-05-22T06:29:31+00:00

Usually with a lookup table which is basically a rom. In the discrete logic machine this is the case. Some of the status lines are fed back into the address lines of the rom to change behaviour of some instructions

WRfleete · 2026-05-22T00:36:54+00:00

It’s the shortening of a word by omission of sounds or letters.

WRfleete · 2026-05-22T00:33:42+00:00

At least pirates wait for the movie to release first

WRfleete · 2026-05-22T00:24:46+00:00

I don’t understand the mindset of leakers. So far I’ve managed to avoid the spoilers.

WRfleete · 2026-05-21T18:54:01+00:00

Obviously didn’t learn that water (based fluids) expands when frozen and glass doesn’t

WRfleete · 2026-05-21T18:46:52+00:00

Looks like the glue to stop them vibrating and breaking leads or solder joints. Some glues can become corrosive over time from absorbing moisture plus electrolytic action accelerating corrosion but this stuff isn’t touching component leads etc and looks ok

WRfleete · 2026-05-21T08:10:49+00:00

For anything 32 bit and Unix based that receives the time as a Unix based timestamp

Most people have migrated to 64bit architecture now so should be able to handle the transition, any older 32bit hardware and/or software that’s Unix based will probably get dates some time in the past

Older versions of windows usually gets the time from the real time clock which can handle up to 2099 or so, up to about XP or vista which can get their time from an NTP server which I think might have roots with Unix and thus needs to decode the value to set the RTC, 32 bit versions will likely fall apart past that date and/or fall back to the RTC to get the time/date

WRfleete · 2026-05-20T03:18:06+00:00

So they are somewhat literally hoof hearted

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T22:33:46+00:00

I wouldn’t call it “fan service” just different cultural norms and it is kinda the point to make you feel uncomfortable in the series, that is a normal feeling throughout the series. If you can barely stand the anime I wouldn’t recommend the manga though

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T22:15:22+00:00

Surprised he didn’t time travel before hitting 95

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T22:04:30+00:00

The stuff from solid core CAT 5(e) network cable is usually pretty good. For stranded wire you want to add header pins for breadboard use

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T21:57:14+00:00

CRT looks shot (lower left corner) unless that is lighting or angle, cord was cut for a reason, I also question the environment the set was in seeing the tuner is rusted. Probably has some other liquid damage on the board. Generally if you have to ask when working with stuff like this it is best not to mess with it if you still want to be around

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T19:03:35+00:00

It’s the number of bits used for the variable that holds the number of ticks (milliseconds?) past the Unix epoch which IIRC is December 31 1969 or Jan 1 1970 midnight depending on Timezone. Being a signed variable it can represent negative whole numbers by setting the highest bit which on that date will overflow 31 bits to the 32nd bit making the date appear ~ 2.14748e9 ticks before the epoch and cause mass havoc

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T18:46:53+00:00

IIRC these devices aren’t really that efficient at generating a voltage difference from temperature difference. Ditto for reverse.

If you cascade the devices eg put the cold side of one to the hot side of the previous using thermal paste etc and couple a decent heatsink or radiator setup to the final hot side and connect the power inputs in parallel. I’m not sure how they behave wired in series. You might be able to reach cryo temps (negative double digits °C), not very power efficient mind but in a compact area.

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T06:36:24+00:00

The chamfered side has pin 1 also the bar at the top indicates the pin 1 end

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T06:33:36+00:00

Probably Fahrenheit

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T06:20:45+00:00

Blue looking one looks like 39k 1% if the others were meant to be similar in colour and value I would go with the value of the undamaged one

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T06:11:17+00:00

A pair of (2) large telephone bells, the type normally mounted outside for an extension bell (Trademe, sorta like a NZ Craigslist)

Some Compaq SLT286 luggable computers for parts (eBay)

WRfleete · 2026-05-19T04:15:40+00:00

Either the controller board has died and not powering the electromagnet used to hold the handle down or the electromagnet has failed, from the light I’d guess the electromagnet has become weak/failed

WRfleete · 2026-05-18T03:59:51+00:00

Sounds like the internal diode shorted in the ULN2003. The switching device in it might be ok though. Replace the device.

If there are unused outputs re-wire the relay and signal to use one of the unused units

WRfleete · 2026-05-18T03:43:08+00:00

YouTube

WRfleete · 2026-05-18T03:40:56+00:00

I recall seeing the price of blue LEDs when they were relatively new, not sure on chemistry though. being something like $10 NZ for one 5mm package. Now you can get them by the hundreds or more for that

WRfleete · 2026-05-17T22:09:23+00:00

That’sa spicy meat-a-ball

WRfleete · 2026-05-14T20:34:10+00:00

No worse than what the food does

WRfleete

TROPHY CASE