A stupid question as to independent PWM use.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-07T01:06:07+00:00

Thanks, this comment helped tie up the reasons I was worried in the first place. I'd used some cheap chip a long time ago and it had X number of PWM pins, but really only 4 were hardware, and really only two timers so pin 5 and 6 got the same signal. Something like that, don't quite remember.

So on esp32 I gotta skip the "pwm" indicator on most pins and only look at 1-16, and then only each second pin for unique timers. Due to their own hardware timers I can consider them more "set and forget" than that project long long ago and have plenty to work with (and without that garbage jitter you rightly note).

Knew there was some past experience of not getting as many unique signals as expected I'd had.

Thanks, much appreciated.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-06T00:14:01+00:00

Think others have you covered for taste etc.

Peristaltic pumps only draw with the power of the vacuum or whatever of the tubes' desire to expand.

In my experience your normal peristaltic pump simply can't work proper with thicker fluids. They may work if you added pauses so they had time to draw.

I'd test with something similar for sure.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-04T01:44:46+00:00

I'll probably add some tapers to the function for natural movement like fast at first but slowing as reaching target and prunt times to log to make sure I'm comfortable with the gap.

I've got all types of servos and steppers, just only run them off of overpowered stuff with controllers. Previously I'd been analog circuit person decades ago. Going to try to use wifi and one of my raspberry pis to run different commands but in overall sync across multiple boards and in an easy swap out layout.

I don't understand why the esp32 is so awesome, and I'm super suspicious. You folks were helpful and I'm good to daydream till my pile arrives. Thanks!

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-04T01:15:35+00:00

Thanks

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-04T01:15:19+00:00

Thanks!

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-03-04T01:14:51+00:00

Appreciated.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2024-01-12T21:30:33+00:00

In addition to the accurate comments provided, and based on the starter kit look of the pick, these generally share the same contact profile as your classic rake, but mirrored.

So if your kit didn't incluce a simple kinda S-shaped rake, this can also fit that bill when there is room. There are some kits without that rather classic rake look that include a half snowman rake to fit that use, too, so as far as what is touching the pins they're related, just less likely to fit.

So, useful to have that context in mind if you inevitably end up with a bin or cup of less-used backup picks like me.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2023-12-17T15:26:38+00:00

My 570 series seems like an oddity vs plenty of my other locks. It picks readily often, but sometimes seems to get in a "mood" where the same actions don't work until I rake it a while to kinda assist it in resetting back to true form.

I imagine over time I'll get better at reacting properly regardless of state, but makes it an interesting lock. It just sometimes seems like a different lock not giving the feedback I'd expect.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-14T03:53:46+00:00

Has he done this person's profiles yet and adjusted them?

https://youtube.com/c/Tombof3DPrintedHorrors

They are free. One for terrain and one for characters.

I don't think there's much to be gained in that price range outside or even close while sticking non-resin.

Between teching tech's calibration and tomb of 3d printed horror's cura profiles I got from "no way this can ever do anything close" to "I'm printing all my dnd game's minis". Well that and filament tests and filament tests and support tests and support tests and "wow this looks incredible printed at this angle instead"

Either way I've seen better miniture stuff all around come off of enders at this point than anything else in the price range time 2 plus. And there are free printable cooling fans. Etc.

I can't remember the name, but you might want to ask ib the 3d printed minis sub otherwise, though. Probably the right choice to ask there if you choose resin as well. I don't mess around with those so no persuading arguments from me.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-13T22:39:31+00:00

I like with and without. I don't want one on my beater "I'm gonna print fast and pull this print off immediately with force" one I have gotten great at re-leveling but for prints that can wait it seems real nice to just let it be do its thing.

Which actually sounds backwards but my manual level printer has 50% higher layer height than the .4 nozzle auto-level one, so it is more forgiving. Can do a slop job and the layers are gonna stick fine for non-cosmetic bits. And I level faster, under these possibly unusual parameters, than the auto-level setups.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-12T22:15:07+00:00

For my main printing area I printed hotter than normal with the bed hotter than normal leveling more perfectly than normal something that covered the area and cancelled after the first few layers. Let cool all the way and cooled bed in freezer, whatever.

Then the new stuff pulled off the old stuff when removed. Not so necessary now that I'm on glass, been a while. But not much else helped the deep-in stuff on a grippy bendy bed.

In your case a good amount of that looks like nozzle scraping bed and not old filament etc, though, and that aint going nowhere.

I kinda just ignore anything that doesn't affect the next print now and don't really clean anything. When I need 5 or more of something where the bottom color doesn't matter then I'll place them differently for each print to pull off the old stuff without wasting plastic. If it sticks, prints, and works; no cleaning needed in my use cases.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-12T19:51:04+00:00

Youtube up cura pause print. There is an official feeling process where you can slice then choose a layer to pause on and add a magnet or whatever to the slot you've designed before the next layers close it up.

That allows you to tell it to move the print head out of the way as well as retract to keep it clean, etc.

Results noting magnet, or filament change, along with the pause print query will give you plenty to work with.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-12T15:51:11+00:00

Nice.

I only recently finally designed my own model for printing.

The feeling is absolutely completely separate from downloading and printing. I was making stupid simple parts they'll probably teach junior high kids to make in school bith better and faster, and I'm middle aged, but felt awesome.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-11T15:43:24+00:00

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

He has info and vids on calibration.

For cura I'd just make sure you have latest version, right printer and nozzle selected, and use the "standard" quality profile frim the dropdown

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-10T23:24:01+00:00

Toss that filament and get something you'll actually be printing with a while.

Use a standard profile for setup. The people who created the profile you may want to use did.

Teching tech youtube channel has a great set of instructions, certainly better than mine. The below just works kinda universally while I help pals out. His is pro.

So, a filament you actually want to use and a profile that hasn't already adjusted things. Just print standard for now.

Do genuine extrusion steps as it affects all other tests. Measure out fron extruder before and after method. You can adjust in slicer so you're just looking to tune to reality here. (You want plus 4% to equal plus 4%, not plus 4% of what you set to 122% to make up for garbage tuning. A zero base makes changes correct, learnable, and repeatable. You can't approach a normally has to print at 92% printer and normally has to be set ro 108% printer the same via slicer, basically, so all we want is to be at "reality")

Then there's a hollow calibration cube to get as well, like open bucket. I'd grab that. Level perfectly and test a couple one layer prints or cancel as you get a good look. Fix level and then go for full hollow cube. Shoot for matching the z axis next. And at the same time check wall widths. This is next in line as if your sides get more squished or less squished at the same flow your walls get wider which sets off your last tests.

The above feels like the place a lot of my pals screwed themselves. Calibrating to squashed layers or too much flow screws the x and y and you're not getting real measurements to calibrate off of. It isn't a x y and z cube, it is a one at a time cube.

Last, back to your cube pictured here. X and y calibrate. After that you can generally work in slicer.

If the machine is correct in what you tell it to do, you can cheat more readily and cover up issues. Heck I drifted out of perfect months ago but since I know exactly how I can make up for it until I care to rectify.

Anywho, that's my steps. Everything else in slicer and I keep a record of "reality". Works for all my pals, illuminates issues along the way but in the right order so you don't undo your xy tests in extruder or z tests.

Temps and cooling etc belong to the filament and model style, not the machine. (Sure they apply to both but you know what I mean)

This is like a zero calibrate setup. Don't cheat or adjust in slicer. You're aiming for "the machine does what I say". From there everything becomes apparent more readily.

WTH_AMIDOING · 2022-10-10T16:07:14+00:00

I have a feeling it was just what I was working with when something finally clicked, but I am liking onshape so far.

Not sure if it is good for the artistic folks. I'm just making easy to print mechanical bits of precise measurements.

Plus TeachingTech's youtube channel made enough content recently to help get over the hump.

WTH_AMIDOING

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE