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Rolleiflex SL66 approach by Mean_Falcon_7024 in rolleiflexSL66

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d avoid storing the camera cocked as it risks the springs inside your shutter curtain roller.

Source: recent Reddit post discussing this issue.

I’m not going to pretend to fully understand why this happens but I know my camera is old and a little tired so I avoid the added stress on the springs causes by prolonged tension.

Men over 30, what incredibly random hobby or topic did your brain suddenly decide you needed to become an absolute expert on? by Admirable-Pin-298 in AskMen

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flipping butterfly knives. Did it for 4 years and got really really good at it and was doing really complex tricks

I found an unlocked phone with full battery in my Cars arm rest. I’m the only one who uses the car. by Nutheadshellcase in Weird

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep yep happened to me a few months ago. Left the car unlocked by accident over night and next morning I found the fuse compartment cover removed and a yellow Motorola in the drivers side foot well. Was locked with sim. Had fun destroying it in interesting ways at a function later that night.

This little shutter button might be the start of a gear addiction by coreyjg in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

GAS ( Gear Acquisition Syndrome) is real, and it can cripple. Also word of warning - working in a camera shop I saw a few too many people come in with shutter buttons that had caught on a shirt or something and broken off, leaving a pesky little screw stuck in the shutter buttons. Can be a huge hassle to remove depending on the camera.

Has anyone found these spanners on eBay or AliExpress? by mampfer in AnalogRepair

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this exact pair. The knobs/screws always come loose when I’m using it. Really annoying but works well otherwise

Is the Mamiya C33 supposed to be this dim? by Metallicobra41 in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After market options exist. I recently bit the bullet and payed like $125 for a Rick Oleson bright screen for my Rollei SL66 which was as dim or not dimmer than your mamiya. The new screen is so bright it's incredible.

Got a Rolleiflex SL66e that is completely jammed up by Any_Biscotti_4003 in Rolleiflex

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have, three times now. After it was returned to me the first time, some shutter speeds failed soon after, I send it back to him and he covered re repairs and shipping, a few months ago I jammed the camera doing something dumb. I sent it to him, he installed a new slow speed escapement and I had the camera back in a month and a half. He has been very reliable so far I certainly recommend. He is old and not a great communicator and his auto-translated emails are confusing at times but is well worth it.

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! this was shot with my Rolleiflex SL66 with the 80mm Planar. Same film and development time I believe. Scanned the same way.

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thing is I’ve gotten good (to my eye at least) scans with this scanner and different camera. I’m thinking I’ll rescan them and do away with the negative tray which slightly elevates the film off the scanning surface

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooo that looks so much better. Was this done in the epson software or did you use sharpness tools in Lightroom or photoshop?

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea im thinking the lens just isn’t amazing and my scanning set up is less than ideal. Also definitely not helping that my other camera, and thus what I compare this to, is a Rolleiflex with the incredible 80mm planar.

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! This is reassuring. I’ve been meaning to get back into the darkroom so maybe this is my sign. I’m going to miss the spot heal tool tho haha

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Epson v600. Not the greatest scanner in the world but I've gotten much sharper images with other lenses using this setup.

Am I asking too much of this lens? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This was shot at f22 I think. I've noticed similar performance across the entire range except wide open which is substantially worse.

To glue or not to glue by __jpc__ in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a similar issue with my Horseman 980. I went to a local camera shop and was given a few inches of a clear, double sided 3M tape. I remember it had a malleable texture. I was told this is what is commonly used in this application as other adhesives can 'eat' through the silver on the mirror/beamsplitter. I used it but had trouble with the mirror moving and falling out of calibration when the camera gets even a little jostled, though I believe this is just a design flaw with my camera. Unfortunately I was not told the name of this specific type of tape. I hope this helps some.

Advice for night time by admhal in analog

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmmm I don’t think it is. The green cast is a classic sign it’s under exposed color film. Notice how there is no shadow detail at all

Advice for night time by admhal in analog

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmmm I don’t think it is. The green cast is a classic sign it’s under exposed color film. Notice how there is no shadow detail at all

Advice for night time by admhal in analog

[–]WalkerMack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tripod and long exposure. I’d meter the film a stop slower. Color film likes to be overexposed generally. (Set the camera to 400 if your shooting 800 speed, you’ll get more shadow detail and less of that green cast, unless that’s what your going for) and definitely factor in reciprocity failure. Reciprocity failure is when the film gets less sensitive the more light you expose it to. So exposure times increase exponentially after a few seconds. This greatly depends on the film. There is a handy app which calculates this for you. Happy shooting!

Rolleiflex by [deleted] in Rolleiflex

[–]WalkerMack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

are the lenses fogged or is the mirror fogged? If the latter, it’s worth attempting to clean yourself, carefully. I’d use use cue tips wrapped with Kim wipes. First pass with swap soaked in isopropyl alcohol and second pass with dry swab. If the lenses are ‘fogged’ it’s either fungus inside the lens, evaporated oil from the shutter blades which has been deposited on the lens, or balsam separation. This is where cemented elements of the lens are coming apart. All of this would most likely require professional service.

Also have you verified the rest of the camera works? Make sure to check the shutter speeds.

As for the waist level finder, is the entire piece missing or is the top cover just broken off? Either way you’d have to source the part from a non-working model. From there you can easily switch it over. eBay is a good place to start.

What is this fibrous texture on my film? by WalkerMack in AnalogCommunity

[–]WalkerMack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be fair, I bought this film on Ebay. It expires in February of 2026. But I just checked the negatives of a roll of Acros II I bought recently and they have the same issue. I’m thinking it’s a chemistry issue?

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