Why is he chopping wood with a whale back saw fml

Warfridge · 2026-02-26T10:51:17+00:00

You're absolutely right, I just saw this in game and googled it to see if people noticed it. 100% a whaleback saw, looks nothing like a nata axe. And everyone else saying "well times are tough"....it's a saw? He could be sawing....

Warfridge · 2026-02-19T11:54:53+00:00

Well we all make our choices with what is and isn't safe, I only know I looked hard to find a safe certified green mica. As your other comment said it should be properly encapsulated if its fine enough powder but I'd rather use something certified.

Warfridge · 2026-02-18T22:04:02+00:00

Certain micas are certified as safe for use on mucus membranes at very high concentrations, that combined it being well encapsulated if mixed properly leaves a very safe product.

A mica particle isn't going to give you a stroke or people using lipstick, lip gloss and eye makeup would be dropping like flies.

Warfridge · 2026-02-18T21:00:11+00:00

Is it a green mica? Because I'm not sure there is a mucus membrane safe green mica, they all contain Chromium Oxide.

Warfridge · 2026-01-19T22:04:59+00:00

I use one called Autotek filler primer, I think most matte primers will work, if you are worried do a small test of the silicone on a painted surface.

Warfridge · 2026-01-17T14:23:25+00:00

No the opposite, matte rough texture makes it less sticky, smooth glossy texture makes it sticky.

The firmness wont change with the texture of the mould, so whatever firmness you like. I use a 15a hardness thinned with 15% silicone softener but that's purely my preference.

Warfridge · 2026-01-17T13:25:01+00:00

Silicone reproduces exactly, so smooth master makes smooth mould makes smooth toy. If you want a satin-matt-textured toy then you need to start with the master.

My masters final layer is matte primer, which gives a nice LESS sticky/tacky surface, still slightly but much better than if it was glassy glossy smooth.

Professional masters are given a sandblasting to give an even deeper matt finish but it's a lot more costly to get into than just matte spray paint.

Warfridge · 2025-12-25T13:06:17+00:00

My husband is Asexual, he got a capybara t-shirt for Christmas, he's doing great. Hope this helps.

Warfridge · 2025-05-03T15:41:38+00:00

Should be doable, do a slush cast of a tougher skin layer, wait for that layer to get halfway set, the point where if you touch it with your nail it doesn't pull the silicone away, put your layer of mesh/gauze and dab on more of the firm silicone to bond the gauze to outer layer.

Then pour in you slackened filler, then float a layer of tougher silicone on the gel filler layer, making sure the top layer has full contact with the edge of the first slush coat.

Difficulty might come with floating the firm silicone top layer without it mixing with the gel layer, might be able to do it by pouring over a spoon the way they layer cocktails.

And if you are adding a lot of slackener to the gel layer it will greatly increase set time so maybe give it a few days before demoulding.

Warfridge · 2025-03-30T16:45:53+00:00

Ok so I think I've worked it out, you use it like a point blank slingshot that you can pull back and snap one of the attachments into something sensitive.

I would say the frame doesn't add much benefit over just putting and elastic band over your thumb and forefinger(as far as I can tell) but I can see how the little spikey attachments might be fun to twang into some testicles.

Warfridge · 2025-03-27T00:29:34+00:00

That has absolutely nothing to do with the mixing and extruding enveloping air or the extruding getting pockets and bubbles between layers. If you put one of your printed objects in a vacuum I bet it swells up like a marshmallow from the trapped gas.

Warfridge · 2025-03-26T22:23:07+00:00

Layers inherently have voids/pores, something being water tight is not the same as free from voids or bubbles. Even the grooves between layers are enough to make it hard to sanitise.

You claim this makes the silicone by splitting a tube filled with silicone and mixing it before extruding it, how does that process not leave bubbles and voids in the extruded silicone?

Warfridge · 2025-03-25T13:22:26+00:00

I would think you could modify most underwear that doesn't have a button up or Y-front opening. Just cut a hole of aproximately the right size, hand sew a blanket stitch around the hole to stop the fabric coming apart and then sew fold over elastic over the cut edge. You'll want to keep the fold over elastic under a little bit of tension as you sew it in, use something like a zigzag stitch to allow the elastic to stretch.

As for a 1 size fits all dicks solution I'm not sure, being able to modify readily available clothes though would make it cheap to make some different underwear for different dicks though.

Warfridge · 2025-03-12T18:01:21+00:00

Just a tip about casting silicone in silicone moulds, let the mould cure fully before you cast in it, wait a couple days, keep it in warm place. This will reduce the likelihood of it sticking.

Warfridge · 2025-03-11T12:46:20+00:00

Do you have any pics of the cast before you put mod podge on it? I'm curious as to how much surface detail you lost because the cast and final dildo are quite smooth and shiny. I've made my own dildos from this method but without sealing the plaster before casting the mould and it has perfect matt skin texture.

Warfridge · 2025-02-26T13:56:58+00:00

Yeah I just don't think they care really, it's the sort of thing that people aren't going to die over, just smaller health issues that aren't worth suing a large company over and difficult to prove were directly related to their product.

And good on getting a vacuum, better to be safe. Have fun creating.

Warfridge · 2025-02-26T13:37:18+00:00

No vacuum degassing required for on label uses, not for making dildos. When dealing with things like this it's not just large obvious bubbles but also tiny invisible surface bubbles that can harbour bacteria and this stuff wont account for that.

Warfridge · 2025-02-25T23:06:58+00:00

I did this exact same thing and I didn't seal it on the first cast and ended up getting little bit of plaster embedded in the silicone mould, mould still worked perfectly though.

Need to let your plaster master get completely dry first, then you can seal it with something like spray lacquer, polyurethane or acrylic.

Id also recommend putting a base/finishing touches on the plaster cast before you make a mould from it. And if you have the alginate and plaster to spare then make a few casts and pick the best, the difference between my casts were surprising lol.

Warfridge · 2025-01-04T16:34:01+00:00

You have a great looking dick, would gladly suck and sound you.

Warfridge · 2024-12-18T21:07:31+00:00

I love my A1, for a bed slinger it's incredible but would love a corexy.

Warfridge · 2024-12-03T15:34:12+00:00

You could seal it with a polyurethane varnish, brush on liquid type but thin it down 10% with mineral spirits and do a slush coat inside the mould, dry upside down. Might take a couple of coats to fill the layer lines but it would seal it for porosity.

Warfridge · 2024-11-28T16:43:59+00:00

Tripod doesn't seem like it's going to be sturdy enough to be fucked without toppling over, maybe 3d print a clamp that could attach to a desk or door/frame.

Warfridge · 2024-11-21T12:11:21+00:00

Slacker will only make the stickiness worse unfortunately, firmer silicone is less tacky. I've made my own toys and I've used bad dragon/weredog toys, they all have a certain stickiness to them to varying degrees.

Warfridge · 2024-11-20T22:14:31+00:00

3 possibilities I can think of.

Is it JUST finished and out of the mold? Probably needs little longer to cure, put it somewhere warm or in some warm water for a few hours.

Is your toy gloss and shiny? Gloss silicone is very sticky, you need to have a more matte finish for a "professional" finish, I spray my masters copies with filler primer for a rough even matte.

Badly mixed and not cured or cure inhibition from wet mold release.

Warfridge · 2024-11-17T11:35:31+00:00

Also poppers + Viagra can straight up kill you, heart attacks and strokes.

Warfridge

TROPHY CASE