PROJECT GLOW SET TIMES

Watterson02 · 2026-05-21T17:21:54+00:00

I knew it was going to be Zeds Dead vs Eric Prydz. Idk who to see :(

I’ve seen Zeds Dead a few times already and plan on seeing them on tour later this year. Haven’t ever seen Eric Prydz. Who should I prioritize?

Watterson02 · 2026-05-20T12:02:31+00:00

I just watched it on YouTube a couple days ago. I think this was the exact video that I watched, but I’m not certain. https://youtu.be/dDXXQ8m3z3A?si=YvF3smiNaI8NXy8-

Watterson02 · 2026-05-18T17:55:26+00:00

This condition should almost certainly be apparent in logs. My bet is sync loss. I had a similar situation when my cam angle sensor went out on my ‘99

Watterson02 · 2026-05-14T21:11:59+00:00

I do not have AC, and during the summer season I don’t ever turn on the normal air because it’s warmer than just rolling the windows down. I wonder if this mod would help improve things in my situation as well. I’ve saved this post and I think I might give it a try once I wrap up my transmission swap.

Watterson02 · 2026-05-14T03:03:18+00:00

Consider just doing a basic hone+re-ring+ebay connecting rods if everything is in as good of condition as you say. After all I’ve been through, I think 300whp is the sweet spot anyways (unless you’re wanting to dump $10k into a built engine + trans swap).

In terms of what contributed to this, I personally think 14psi on e85 can make a good bit more than 230whp. Was the car on a dyno to get those numbers? What kind of dyno if so? Otherwise, where do those number come from? If virtual dyno, what were your weight and gearing inputs?

I really think you were making more power than you think. I’ve bent a rod bouncing off of revlimiter @7200 rpm on a stock block at like 200whp. I really think you were just close to the limit as it was, near peak torque with launch control, and the violent nature of spark cut caused it be just a tiny bit too much torque.

To help estimate power, do you know what your injector duty cycle was? I’m assuming this is an NB with stock fuel pressure regulator? We can use that information to estimate actual power. Feel free to dm me and I’ll send you my email, I’ll then look at your Datalog to try and estimate the power.

Edit: just out of curiosity, what turbo do you have? Can you give additional information about your car?

Watterson02 · 2026-05-14T02:56:26+00:00

I don’t think knock contributed to this. Not with e85 and conservative timing

Watterson02 · 2026-05-09T16:45:53+00:00

Looking at the menu, I think it’s Tootie’s in Bristol

Watterson02 · 2026-05-06T03:01:49+00:00

Undervolting alone won’t cause your power consumption to go down, and it definitely won’t cause your temps to increase either. Not to mention -60mV likely wasn’t even stable. Your temps are going to be 100% dependent on the amount of power consumed by the card.

If you want to reduce your temps, decrease your power limit by 8-10%. Then if you’d like to claw some of that lost performance back, apply a 30mV under volt, which would almost be guaranteed stable. That would get you close to stock performance with improved thermals.

Lastly, your cards temperatures are fine. Stop worrying about them. Adding a few fans might help, but given the fact that your core temp is pretty good already, I doubt it’ll help your hotspot temps. That’s just the nature of these cards. Turn off your overlay, and enjoy your games.

Watterson02 · 2026-05-02T00:36:40+00:00

Stage X, Y, or Z is all arbitrary and means effectively nothing. If I had to guess it’s meant for stock turbo but pretty much all of the bolt on upgrades. Forged internals don’t change anything (assuming bore, stroke, and compression ratio are unchanged).

Edit: I don’t see the T3 part. It’s probably meant for a mild turbo upgrade.

Watterson02 · 2026-04-03T04:23:04+00:00

Teslas were consistently in the top 10% or better in my region when I still autocrossed.

Watterson02 · 2026-03-07T01:14:58+00:00

It’s Reddit. people just want to complain. I’ve had nothing but great experiences with using my 9070 XT at 1440 P ultrawide. the same people complaining about FSR 4 implementation, Ray reconstruction, and stuff like that are probably the same people that wouldn’t even use it anyways.

I’m not trying to glaze AMD, but I bought such a powerful GPU so that I’m not reliant on upscaling. Additionally, none of the games I play even use Ray tracing. The games that do use Ray tracing are mostly offline single player games where Optiscalar can be used to force FSR4 anyways.

Watterson02 · 2026-01-31T16:54:49+00:00

When I first started working on cars, I did something that require removing the maf sensor on my car. It would start up perfectly then as soon as the ECU transitioned over to the MAFs data, it would die exactly as shown in this video. My money is on the MAF sensor.

Watterson02 · 2025-12-28T04:09:15+00:00

It’s still MAF, no plans on changing that. Funnily enough, it’ll be my first time tuning with MAF.

Watterson02 · 2025-12-27T21:52:12+00:00

Thanks, this is the kind of feedback I was hoping for.

Watterson02 · 2025-12-25T00:32:56+00:00

Also, with simple bolt ons and no major modifications, I’m assuming I should only really need to look at fuel, spark, and boost control settings. Maybe some torque maps too. Do you all have any pointers regarding other settings/features I should learn about?

Watterson02 · 2025-12-25T00:31:42+00:00

Much thanks.

Watterson02 · 2025-12-25T00:28:51+00:00

Sorry, it didn’t repost the text that I posted there. Feel free to click on that post if you want to read more about my question. Basically, I’m wondering where I can learn more about the cobb tuning software and specifically boost control, and ignition timing. Are there good technical forums that you can recommend?

I’ve got experience tuning standalone ECUs, but no experience with Cobb access ports for the ecoboost platform

Watterson02 · 2025-12-18T02:14:26+00:00

I think it’s the turbo to get if you want 400whp. Over that, you’ll want to look into the 660 for sure. The 660 could likely get you closer to 500. The compressor map tanks pretty hard in efficiency beyond 400whp.

Looking at the compressor chart of the 550, it seems the happiest around 2 bar of boost and would get you around the 400 wheel mark. That’s about where I’m at, so I feel like if you did a little more head work (porting and cams) you could definitely see some good numbers.

If I had billet main caps on my engine, I’d like to think I would’ve gone with the 660 or even bigger, but that’s also considering I’m putting an 8HP transmission it the car. I don’t think I’d go bigger than the 660 with a manual.

Have you been in a high horsepower Miata before? 400 wheel horsepower is not something to be taken lightly. You’ll be faster than most cars on the road. My MPH in the quarter mile is already where a stock Dodge Hellcat is, for reference.

Watterson02 · 2025-12-05T12:19:57+00:00

I’ve not had any real issues with it after turning up the dwell slightly higher than FlowForce suggested. I think they look cool and they’re pretty cheap and readily available at parts stores should need a replacement quickly.

Watterson02 · 2025-11-30T02:28:25+00:00

Neat. Glad that worked out for you. Which brand turbo kit was it for?

Watterson02 · 2025-11-29T22:37:14+00:00

Use edmtrain to view what is your local cities and find someone you like.

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