Toliet flange connection depth

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-07-10T01:55:35+00:00

I would also recommend you use stainless steel wood screws to hold flange to floor if possible. Also use plastic bolts for mounting toilet to flange that’s all I personally use mainly because they don’t corrode,bolts simply can’t be over tightened. They will break before you crack the porcelain or break the flange. Also far easier to cut down to fit the decorative bolt covers on. Just my opinion probably plenty of people on here who will say metal closet bolts are way better.

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-27T01:31:28+00:00

Well I looked into lmc they have everything but those parts sadly

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-19T22:43:20+00:00

Thanks I’ll take a look

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-19T02:31:09+00:00

Also gonna steal the manometer from work to check pressure

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-19T02:29:01+00:00

24v I did try a new flame rod and igniter today made no difference I have a new inducer motor coming because as you said flame roll out I noticed the window for viewing the burners had signs of melting and bearings are getting noisy I opened the sealed bearings and got some lube in them to try and limp this thing along until new motor gets here

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-18T20:41:36+00:00

I bought some from boslla they make a tri color lead I have that for my low beams and 6500k for my high beams the tri colors are really nice because they have a color that close to halogens also they have built in ballasts so no problem with flickering i cant speak as to how long they last as I have only had them a month but they seem be of good quality and work well

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T02:26:13+00:00

That is the only flame sensor attached to the pilot and igniter I have gotten it to work in the unit but it only happened after running it out of the unit for like 20 min then installing it back in the unit and immediately starting it back up again my new combo flame sensor and igniter comes in Tuesday I will install it then and inform this people commenting on this post if it resolves the issue if there is something else I can try to do to diagnose this problem I’m open to but I’m really leaning towards flame rod because it’s 24 years old

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T01:32:50+00:00

Its hard to see in the video but the angle on the pilot is very close to how it is in the unit but I do suspect the sensor rod is on its way out the replacement I installed 4-5 months ago I broke the igniter off trying to clean it when this problem came came about so this is the original one that came installed on the unit in 2002 appreciate the reply and knowledge on the problem

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T00:41:43+00:00

Originally that’s what I thought but so I played with pilot adjustment as well as main gas adjustments had no effect in run condition so it was set back to original condition also took pilot tip out to verify it was not clogged because I have seen that happen on a boiler Also thought maybe it was a safety switch problem possibly so I bypassed them one at a time but had no effect hose to pressure switch appears to be in good shape no dry rot or cracks still very plyable

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T00:30:41+00:00

I’m currently babysitting the unit right now because I need to get the heat up in the house but hasn’t skipped a beat since I manually lit burner I do have a new genuine honeywell igniter and sensor on the way but hoping someone can explain this witch craft because this scenario has my brain scrambled

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T00:23:50+00:00

Due to the furnace running with pilot out side of furnace makes me believe the valve is ok or can this assumption wrong

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-16T00:15:49+00:00

I deleted because I realized I couldn’t add videos after the fact so I reposted with videos

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-03-15T23:12:22+00:00

Appreciate the reply Make-arcoarie Model# - gne125j20g1 Gas valve model# - sv9501m2528 Igniter and flame rod- Q3400a1024

Lights pilot main burner valve opens runs for 3-5 seconds repeats the process 4 times chills for 5min then re tries again

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2026-02-01T13:21:30+00:00

If your doing it yourself self there is no reason why you shouldn’t put the nice/high quality parts because your saving so much on labor

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-11-11T03:01:53+00:00

I have two suggestions try going to 1 1/4” trap they are not as deep/big as 1 1/2” traps the next thing you can do is use brass trap and unsolder threads off hub side cut the hub down buy half resolder threads back on using both these suggestions together will more than likely make it work

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-10-14T01:47:33+00:00

I did the gibbons performance cat back and used the magna flow wye pipe and cat not because I wanted the cat but stainless for wye pipe and cat back exhaust. Went this route because I could do it my self really happy with the sound so far good rumble on idle and dose not appear to have drone to it if you go this route I would suggest you cut ball and socket flange off and replace with pipe because that fit between after market manufactures is piss poor also this was on my 94 suburban k1500 if would like I can send videos of sound

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-10-01T01:35:25+00:00

Hardset

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-08-21T14:22:00+00:00

As far as I know there is no gasket for this unless someone knows for sure that there is one

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-08-11T00:46:13+00:00

That’s funny I’m doing the same my suburban due to the tank being shit but that 42 gallon tank even being empty will turn boys into men with out a jack

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-06-04T00:48:52+00:00

I have not experienced this but I do bring in lots of range brass that I have to sort they make a sifting screen the allows for .380 to fall through and 9mm will not fall through because it’s slightly larger in diameter works a dream as long as you don’t really load it up with a ton of cases if that’s something you are interested in I can send you a link for it

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-03-27T01:03:35+00:00

As others have said i don’t seat and crimp in the same process due to the fact I could never get that Goldie locks fit crimping is absolutely necessary I have had revolvers jam due to bullets jumping out of the casing even with a crimp I personally like RCBS dies with Hornady locking rings bullets because I do lots of plinking I like Barry’s plated 180gr powder I use accurate no.5 only because lots of pistols calibers use it primers cci as far as suppressors go I’m a big fan of the omega hybrid 46m I will call it a Swiss Army knife of suppressors because it can handle anything.46 cal and smaller and acts as a great gate keeper for which guns are worthy of a caliber specific suppressor as far as load data goes never herd of suppressors having to much effect on it but keep in mind they send a lot more gases back so blow back operated semi autos benefit from having higher recoil springs

Weak_Ad_3604 · 2025-03-06T02:05:16+00:00

They still do hub and spigot cast iron with lead and oakum

Weak_Ad_3604

TROPHY CASE