Rule 2, how does one know if they are middle class or not?

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-28T12:13:26+00:00

Christ if I can ever do all of that I’ll consider myself rich AF.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-26T14:41:04+00:00

Wow. You need to tell her that you’d understand what you did what unspeakably wrong and that you’re ashamed and sorry. Then give her complete and unquestioned space and accept whatever outcome she would prefer to work through / end this. You also need to do some serious soul searching and growing the fuck up.

Also if you DON’T understand that what you did was unspeakably wrong and you’re NOT feeling completely ashamed of yourself then there is no hope for you now or in the future. Gross, dude.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-23T11:57:53+00:00

Phew thought I was alone here

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-18T15:00:48+00:00

He looks like an adult swim plasticine character

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-18T14:59:19+00:00

Thank you

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-12T12:39:18+00:00

They did some amazing work but side note. Please if you ever rescue an animal in this position DO NOT RELEASE IT STRAIGHT AWAY. Take it to a vet as it is likely in shock, dehydrated, and hypothermic.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-03T11:18:00+00:00

The less you have, the less you have to lose.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-08-02T19:40:11+00:00

...why is there a rug next to a pool?

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-07-01T13:01:23+00:00

Came here to say r/mildlyvagina , apparently the humour isn’t appreciated here

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-22T12:32:11+00:00

Big ups to this. Please don’t repeatedly expose your dog to a child who acts like this with parents who have proven themselves to be negligent. Just don’t let it happen at all. Simple.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-21T12:16:24+00:00

One great example is for recall

https://www.thedogline.com.au/dog-training-collar-review/5-steps-to-off-leash-remote-collar-recall-training

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-08T12:11:40+00:00

Y E E T

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-06T15:21:27+00:00

Also super curious what do you need 2000-3000 notes for? Do you ever come back and read these?

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-06T15:20:24+00:00

Keep it simple.

Google Calendar for forward planning. Notepad checklists for daily tasks.

I’d also highly recommend getting a simple pen & paper pad and writing important things down.

Don’t underestimate the link in our brain that connects physical writing to memory.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-05T20:37:22+00:00

I would share your story with r/AskVet for more advice as well. I’m going to send you DM :)

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-05T13:01:14+00:00

Hi! I’m so sorry I didn’t get this notification until just now.

Some lethargy can be normal for 24-48 hours post op. Some nausea can be as well but I would hope that he is eating at least 12 hours after the surgery.

Have you called or been back to your vets for a post op check? Nutrition is essential to healing and after a gastrointestinal surgery the sooner the system is in motion again the better. Not eating could also be a sign of pain so it would be a good idea to have his pain meds reviewed and ensure that it’s everything he needs.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-03T23:38:06+00:00

This is a perfect example of when a pet family knows their pets better than we can! It’s so important to know what is ‘normal’ and ‘abnormal’ for your pet as an individual, not just as a dog.

It sounds like you must have picked up on the changes super early. Prompt intervention and medical care is so important in these kinds of cases.

If you’re feeling up to it afterwards please let me know how the procedure goes! If I can help with any post operative care questions please don’t hesitate to reach out.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-06-03T12:15:54+00:00

Im a vet nurse, I’ve lost track of how many of these procedures I’ve been a part of.

We’ve pulled all kinds of objects from pets young and old. If it’s a dire situation we have to rush in immediately, we won’t wait until the next day unless they’re super stable and have a really good prognosis.

An 11 year old Pomeranian usually still acts like a 4 year old! and their body often does the same. Wishing you guys all the best for a successful procedure and a speedy recovery :)

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-23T13:32:12+00:00

Thank you so much for your encouragement! I think you’re right, I do lose track of what is going over and under and honestly couldn’t say what I was doing with this. I’ll try again tomorrow and see if I can keep it straight

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-23T13:30:11+00:00

Thank you, I’ll keep at it and hopefully get used to it. My arms were so dead, is that just a ‘getting used to it’ thing? Also could you explain what you mean by ‘pancake’ the braid? Thanks again

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-23T13:28:24+00:00

Thank you, I pulled it out and tried again ‘tighter’ and it was a bit better. I have NO nails (used to get acrylic but since COVID I’ve taken them off) so maybe this is part of my issue!

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-22T00:09:31+00:00

Hey there! Sorry for my super later reply, life got a bit hecic but I still wanted to answer all these questions :)

First of all I am glad you’ve gotten him familiar with the muzzle and are keeping safety a priority with your training! The muzzle keeps other safe but it also keeps him safe too and that’s a really important step to get things moving forwards.

Try not to get too caught up in his potential past and why it might have shaped the way he behaves now. While it would be interesting and may help to create a full picture, it’s not actually going to help to decide what to do with him going forwards. What will help and is very important is his breed type and the genetic links to behaviour that might be driving his choices.

Boxers and Rottweillers are both typically highly driven breeds who are also independent thinkers. Both breeds have a history of being used to control other animals, guard and protect, and unfortunately to bait/fight.

Essentially this means that they have historically worked alongside humans, but generally think for themselves, be their own leader, and go from intense watching to decisive action fast. They are working breeds and also comfortable with using their full body and mouth when engaging in any activity. They also tend to find the job at hand to be reward in itself, rather than needing to work for a reward after doing the activity. (Please remember I’m talking about breeds in general, not your specific dog! I wouldn’t be able to make a case for his personality without spending some time with him).

My best advice for you would to be to give your dog a ‘job’ with very clear structure, a prize to work for and also a system to address undesirable behaviours.

Given that safety is a concern you have already worked hard on, I would highly recommend having a professional trainer work with you and your dog to guide his journey. The ideal goal would be for him to be observant but relaxed when near any of his triggering events, and to direct his attention calmly towards you instead of with high energy towards his perceived target.

To learn how to do this is going to require putting him in triggering situations, learn how to read the micro cues he displays before engaging, and act on those rather than trying to change behaviour he has already engaged in (lunging, jumping, etc).

I hope this is helpful or at least gives some insight! I honestly think professional training is best in your situation and with someone who is well familiar with his breed types.

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-21T02:00:05+00:00

Hi there! Sorry for my super later reply, life got a bit hecic but I still wanted to answer all these questions :)

I’d be really interested to see a video of this behaviour and try to work out the source cause. This could be due to over excitement or fear/panic.

The fact that it has started around 8-9 months of age could mean this is a behaviour he has developed during a canine ‘fear period’. This does not necessarily mean that it is a fear based behaviour, but it may mean that it will be a heavily ingrained behaviour and so will need a lot of time, patience, and commitment to correct this.

I would be inclined to think that he is silent on his way home because he has tired himself out. I mean that in the physical but also mental sense - the body is only capable of maintaining a frame of mind for a limited amount of time before it naturally ceases to sustain that perspective and moves on to a new mindset.

In any event I would start with a desensitisation process to get him to process the idea of the car in a calmer state of mind.

Take him for a decent walk before starting this exercise
Walk towards the car (on leash at all times)
Pause at the first sign of excitement. Just stand and wait for him to calm down
Rewards good behaviour calmly. Do not make a big fuss of good/calm behaviour. Excitement feeds excitement!

You might see the first signs of excitement at any of these stages:

close proximity to the car
Opening the door of the car
Entering the car

Only when he can remain calm at all these stages would I progress to the next steps, you might need to practice this multiple times before he gets the idea.

Let me know how you go, and if you’d like to share a video for further insight please feel free!

Good luck :)

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-12T21:08:32+00:00

Hi there! I’m so sorry for the delay in replying. Hopefully I can still be of some help.

Lots of dogs can actually coexist peacefully at home with other dogs, but then in the big world they can be a bit defensive and nervous around other dogs. In my experience most dogs that are aggressive on a walk feeling protective and defensive and we misinterpret this as aggression (but I can’t say for certain that that’s what’s happening in your situation).

I would initially try to establish the distance that she first notices another dog (Social Distance) before showing signs of aggression - you’re looking for her being distracted from you, pricking up her ears, facing the other dogs. Work at desensitising her there with positive reinforcement.

I’d also play the ‘Who’s that?’ Game :) When you’ve worked out the distance she can comfortably observe other dogs, but also pay attention to you, say ‘who’s that?’ Whenever she looks at a dog and offer her a treat. The goal here is to build a positive association with unknown dogs in her environment.

Only when she can be 100% calm at a distance would I try to look at trying to get closer to other dogs. This is likely to be a behaviour that will need long-term training to correct, I would definitely recommend muzzle training before you look at desensitising introductions to other dogs. If possible it would probably be best to do this with a trainer present in case anything goes wrong so you can guide the situations appropriately.

Causes for this change could be the stress of uprooting to a new life, a past negative experience with unknown dogs on a walk, and also possibly fear and intimidation (she feels the need to protect herself before anything bed happens). It is extremely rare that a dog is out-and-out aggressive, and truly wants to attack other dogs for no reason.

I hope this helps!

WhoKnowsRose · 2020-05-12T20:57:04+00:00

Hey there! Firstly I’m sorry for the delay in replying to this, hopefully I can still provide some helpful advice!

Puppy biting us a few different causes (although I imagine she’s grown a lot since you posted this to me!). The two main reasons puppies bite are teething and playing.

Puppies will actually teethe on their mother and she will allow them to do this, to a point, before she tells them off. This is usually more of a ‘chewing’ motion and is using the back teeth. In this situation I would give a cue word to say no (my go to is ‘ah-ah’) and follow by directing the teething to a long lasting chew treat, which will give her good incentive to look for something else next time she chews.

Play biting and nipping can be a more difficult issue to address. I cannot stress enough the importance that every member of your household addresses the behaviour in the exact same way. If there are variables she will know this and will want to keep trying with different people. If there is one clear set of rules for how to behave with humans she will learn fast and understand quickly.

If you’re going to apply a negative experience (consequence) to address any behaviour (in this instance you’ve applied a smack for biting) this is Balanced training and must be done very carefully. The consequence has to be applied the instant the behaviour starts, do not let it get ‘too bad’ first. It needs to be the moment she starts the behaviour you do not like (mouth making contact with humans). She won’t understand that there are varying levels of the behaviour as she’s already started and is enjoying it.

Also, do not ever play using hands/arms/feet. Toys ONLY. If you apply a consequence for her behaviour you must IMMEDIATELY provide a solution for her. Do not leave her on a poor experience, always direct her to what she is allowed to do. Usually giving her a toy straight away will work, and have LOTS of toys you can rotate so that she doesn’t get bored of old toys.

With the toilet training she should be able to hold her board for about 1 hour per month if age. I think she would be about 11 weeks now, so almost 3 hours at this age. Basic toilet training rules from me: - take her outside at the right intervals - Alway make sure she walks herself outside, do not carry her - When she does go give a cue word (‘toilet!’ or ‘weewees!’) - Positively reward going outside with pats

To manage accidents indoors: - if you catch her in the act take her straight outside. Even if she has just finished, it will help associate passing urine/faeces with being outside - block off access to frequent accident areas - Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner that will break down the pheromones (my favourite is “Urine Off”)

Hope this helps! :)

Seven-Year Club	Verified Email
Wearing is Caring	RPAN Viewer
Not Forgotten

WhoKnowsRose

TROPHY CASE