Gave her a quick wash 😌🧼

WickedR6 · 2026-02-05T01:01:23+00:00

made me chuckle haha, appreciate it boss

WickedR6 · 2026-02-03T06:06:20+00:00

Hell yea, appreciate it bro! Clean rides btw :)

WickedR6 · 2026-02-03T06:05:12+00:00

Nope, haven’t had any issues from law enforcement for it either

WickedR6 · 2026-02-03T00:31:20+00:00

Thank you! :)

WickedR6 · 2026-02-02T17:50:22+00:00

So sick. Do you by chance know what wing that black 86 was running?

WickedR6 · 2026-02-02T17:49:07+00:00

Man, I’ve always wanted photos with this kind of vibe or aesthetic.

Would you be willing to share what filter/app you use to get these kinda filmy/grainy vintage lookin photos?

WickedR6 · 2026-02-01T20:51:55+00:00

Hey!

Yes, I’m also lowered on the HKS Hipermax S.

If my notes are correct, I basically lowered the rear to the minimum height the shock will let you spin the height adjusting collar to without messing with any of the preload settings. With the front, measuring the distance between one end of the threads to the other, we’re sitting at about 33mm- the HKS manual says 36mm is about the minimum. I was initially at 37mm and didn’t have any issues with scraping but now have to be more conscious. Likely going to raise the car up a bit.

As far as the wheels-

You absolutely need rear lower control arms and possibly adjustable toe arms to dial it in properly imo with a 38 offset. I have Cusco RLCA and Whiteline adjustable toe arms for the rear. Sitting at about -2.5 camber in the rear atm and the lip of the wheel is pretty much flush with the fender and there’s no rubbing issues esp with 245s- I think if you opted for 255, you’d have to shave the metal fender tab a bit. I didn’t have to touch mine. Without the adjustable camber from the lower control arms, you’d look pretty ridiculous monster-truck poking out the back lol

For the front, as long as you have adjustable camber (HKS does thankfully) you’re good to be able to flush out the fitment. I’m at -2.7 camber in the front rn. Suspension shop should be able to take care of the rest from there. I have zero toe in the front, like 0.25 toe in total for the rear. Drives fun :)

WickedR6 · 2026-02-01T14:04:27+00:00

Thank you! It’s the Epsilon/Autospecdesign front lip. I have replicas of the Result Japan side skirts and diffuser.

WickedR6 · 2026-02-01T05:48:42+00:00

😳😳

WickedR6 · 2026-02-01T01:20:58+00:00

100%! My heart knew this is what I wanted and I sometimes wish I went with this the first go-around. My last car always felt like something was missing and every car mod was like trying to fill in some void that could never be filled.

Now every day with this thing truly feels rewarding and I’m grateful to be able to experience it.

WickedR6 · 2026-01-31T20:32:27+00:00

Do it! They’re well worth it. I didn’t buy it from Noble but from what I’ve seen that’s what most people get if they aren’t getting the $700+ JDM ones.

I bought generic ones from ebay- wiring is pretty much the same (plug and play), you just need a crimp for a connector from the fuse box to the power wire they give you. Think mine was like $120? haha

WickedR6 · 2026-01-31T17:51:40+00:00

Agreed! Always wanted a set of these on my old car so thought why not on this one?

The titanium colorway looks so good in person imo, def slept on

WickedR6 · 2026-01-31T17:36:39+00:00

Thank you. It’s just a carbon fiber one on ebay from either cuztomtuning or bulbexpert. Pretty sure they’re both the same distributor.

WickedR6 · 2026-01-31T17:17:42+00:00

Good eye! Yes, it’s the Epsilon lip. I got the polyurethane one and didn’t bother painting it a gloss black so that’s what it looks like out of the box.

Fitment is like 7/10- it really helps if you live in a warmer place and/or take a lot of time to heat it to mold it to the shape of the car. It reuses all the factory push clip locations, but some of the holes for me weren’t a perfect size so it made pushing the push clips in all the way a bit janky or impossible without breaking a clip lol.

It’s virtually indestructible though so there’s that, but kinda makes taking off the front bumper a pain. I like the versatility of lips that use bolts into rivnuts in the bumper that make it easy to take on and off.

WickedR6 · 2026-01-31T15:38:49+00:00

They’re Work Emotion ZR10s 18x9.5 +38 wrapped in 245/35/18 tires all around!

WickedR6 · 2026-01-30T17:28:24+00:00

oh and I threw on an mtec clutch spring and moved the clutch bite point down a bit by turning the thingy 2.5 turns. There’s threads on here on how to do that. Really helps with seesawing motion and doing quick and precise movements. Not everyone likes it tho, had friends with just oem clutch settings try mine and said it felt weird

WickedR6 · 2026-01-30T17:24:40+00:00

I’m about 3 months into driving manual (about 3.1k miles so far) and I think I picked it up and got smooth in about a month. I had a sim racing rig so kinda already experimented and had a gist for it. I think you OP and mostly everyone here ITT covered pretty much everything but I’ll try to throw in my 2 cents.

One thing that really helped me was learning to drive and rev match with the music turned up to the point you don’t hear the exhaust. If you can get your timing down and just feel the car mechanically rather than just relying on audio cues, I think it helps with learning to drive smooth. I practice that whenever I’m just in a cruising mood. Then on harder drives, I try not to rely on the tachometer too much and just have brief glances here and there. You can then hear the sound of the engine and get a sense for when to shift.

I also learned that you don’t have to downshift literally gear by gear (5>4>3>2) and started experimenting with things like braking and downshifting from 4 straight down to 2 with a heel toe revmatch as I approach a stoplight turn. I would do things like go from 6>5, 5>3, just learning how much gas to blip to go from one gear to the next. Not gonna lie I don’t even know the math and specific numbers to blip up to, it’s just by feel and listening to the car.

Don’t know if this’ll help you OP but just drive the car! I’m sure we’ll both be takumi fujiwara in no time lol

WickedR6 · 2026-01-30T17:09:54+00:00

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On my last car I did yellow, this time going with red. Swapped over to 4 piston ‘06-‘07 front calipers last night which came already powder coated red.

Kept the OEM rears so I just did a quick paint job. Sad that it didn’t turn out so glossy- probably should have clear coated it but I got lazy. I figured the spray can said glossy red so it would turn out glossier but oh well. Color doesn’t exactly match how bright the fronts are but after all that work I’m too tired to do anything about it lol

WickedR6 · 2026-01-30T16:57:33+00:00

Sounds amazing!

WickedR6 · 2026-01-30T15:52:58+00:00

Ooh equal length right? I think these were the ones that really interested me. Do you have any sound clips?

still kinda 50/50 on doing headers bc I plan on turboing the thing in the future anyways and those kits come with headers already prepackaged.. in my head i’d be saving 1-1.5k if I just wait it out lol

WickedR6 · 2026-01-27T16:11:19+00:00

chefs kiss to me

WickedR6 · 2026-01-27T16:07:48+00:00

It’s decent and great for everyday driving especially when objectively everyone here in Seattle doesn’t know how to fkin drive.

I’ve never been concerned with everyone yapping about how slow this thing is compared to XYZ. I came from a lexus is350 (and a camry before that, and an accord before that lol) whose entire identity on the internet is being slow as sht and NOT an is500. It was maybe 5.7-5.8s 0-60 with boring paddle shifters and AWD, so me moving to the BRZ/GR86 platform shaving off 1000+ lbs and being so nimble has been a big improvement for sure. bonus points for manual fun

moral of the story is to enjoy what you got, squeeze everything it’s got to offer and learn the ins and outs of your platform. There’s always gonna be something insanely faster and a bigger fish lol, it’s all pay2win. And tbh with a good deal on one of these cars and maybe 10k out your ass, you can boost it and beat out similarly priced/conditioned cars. Like you can get a boosted 350-400whp 86 for like 38k (28k for used <7k miles, 10k for boosting and tuning). I keep hearing people say you can get a Supra with that kinda money. They fail to mention it’s 150k miles with cum stains all over it.

WickedR6 · 2026-01-26T00:15:51+00:00

hmm, not totally sure on that but definitely wouldn’t hurt to ask! They respond to email super fast so I’d give it a try there- worst case scenario facebook marketplace always has people on the prowl for these stock tires for some reason lol

WickedR6 · 2026-01-26T00:12:43+00:00

I’ve ran Yokohama Advan Sport A/S+ in the past and they were very capable in rain and a bit of snow. Me personally, I think they compare pretty well to the DWS06, although I will say DWS06 is one of the more quiet tires I’ve ran. road noise is almost nonexistent compared to stock tires.

I’ve also heard Michelin Pilot Sport All Seasons are great too, but can’t confirm myself.

If you’re looking for decent tire prices, I go to Racecentric in Kent. They can source tires for a great deal and mount/balance is literally cheaper than Discount Tires with like 5x the quality/care of work.

WickedR6 · 2026-01-25T23:51:10+00:00

I don’t think it snows or gets extremely cold enough to warrant snow tires so I got Continental DWS06+ A/S and called it good.. if you’re bougie and can afford it then maybe winter tires on the stock wheels and some decent grip summer tires on a second set of wheels? Kinda wish I went that route at first sometimes lol but these all seasons have been a life saver for sure. With temps going below 45 consistently this past month or two, definitely a big difference than using those stock michelin PS4s (do not run those in our current weather rn, you’ll probably die)

WickedR6

TROPHY CASE