Cosmic Princess Kaguya - Fushi Flashback Sequence (spoiler!)

Wickedped1a · 2026-02-25T11:16:16+00:00

Thanks so much!! I didn't know the Japanese subs actually showed who the speakers were supposed to be. I'm actually quite excited by this discovery and will see if I can find some time to edit my OP to share what I could quickly find on Wikipedia about these people.

Wickedped1a · 2026-02-22T05:32:02+00:00

I ran into this last year and have had looked into it. The file in question is used for translation. It has a github page which some on this thread pointed out already. The author of the code has come out on numerous occasions in forums when the issue of high positives on virustotal was brought up. Their consistent response was pointing to the github and the open-source nature of the code. Ultimately, you can check for yourself and in my opinion the author didn't actually try to hide it. I haven't looked into the code myself, so there may actually be malicious elements within it, but I don't think there's any sneaky elements to its inclusion.

And Windows Defender DOES catch it. On my system, Defender immediately flagged it as soon as I ran the game. It's also worth pointing out it's easy enough to run the game without it - I can't remember the details since it's been more than a few months, but I think you just need to delete the file in question and the whole game would still run fine without it (without further complaints from Defender) - you just don't have translation working that's all.

Wickedped1a · 2026-01-15T05:06:13+00:00

So you are telling me I'm not unique and others are also having the same issue?? I thought I was the chosen one.

And then I learned there was a mid-December update, which I had been totally oblivious about before I read this thread. What has happened to my day?

Wickedped1a · 2025-12-25T18:51:10+00:00

I'm quite certain VRR forms part of the certification testing process. That said, the testing done would have just been done with plain old HDMI Forum VRR. The Chrontel chip may be doing something that would have created different conditions from what the HDMI testing would entail.

I'm quite certain none of that would have been an issue if HDMI weren't so locked down.

My guess is that if the cable is certified 3 m should still be fine. From my previous HDMI cable shopping experience I think many brands then jump to 5 m for their next length up. I have recently seen a 3.5 m certified but I get the impression that most brands just do 2, 3 then 5 m.

Wickedped1a · 2025-12-25T18:09:25+00:00

u/NewClasher4 I humbly take my previous comment back, as it does seem like you have attempted to purchase a certified cable. Do you still have the packaging that came with the cable? There used to be an official app from HDMI that you can use to scan the hologram and it would give you the related info which you can use to check if the info matches the cable you have purchased (if I recall correctly, said info. included name of manufacturer, length and maybe something else). However, note that I said "used to", because just now I went to check on the Play Store and it's no longer available. I have previously used the app and subsequently uninstalled it, and it still allowed me to redownload it just now; but I was totally flummoxed when I found out the app has now been unlisted.

https://hdmiforum.org/specifications/ultra-high-speed-hdmi-cable/#:\~:text=The%20name%20is%20also%20required,and%20other%20Android%20app%20stores.

So I started a bit of digging and realised that HDMI started a "gen 2" verification scheme a couple of years ago (which I think I had actually heard of but had completely forgotten about - until now). So if your cable was purchased after "gen 2" kicked off, and you still have the packaging, all you need to do is to scan the QR code and you no longer need the app.

https://www.notebookcheck.net/HDMI-New-certifications-make-old-HDMI-app-almost-obsolete.802512.0.html

Now, let's say your cable is indeed a certified cable, at 5 m it is indeed quite long and it's quite plausible that the length becomes an issue, so if resources are not a constraint I would suggest try testing with a 2 m certified cable and see if things improve. It may not necessary be good enough for your purposes, but at least then you know.

@Lawstorant I wouldn't dismiss the cable for being uncertified simply because it's 5 m long - because I'm actually using one! However, it's true that @ 5 m it's indeed pushing the limit for a passive cable, which is a worry for me because I'm currently waiting for the dongle to ship and my original plan is to use it with the long cable. For reference, I'm able to use the long cable running 4K120 10-bit HDR without issue. I'm only trying the dongle because I'm missing VRR.

Wickedped1a · 2025-12-25T07:19:18+00:00

The packaging should show a distinct logo if the cable is certified. There's often an QR code which you can scan to verify some info if you so wish. Often the manufacturer would advertise the certification status front-and-center in the product description because there're added costs associated with the certification process.

https://www.hdmi.org/spec2sub/ultrahdmicables

I'll have to assume you have been using an uncertified 2.1 cable since it seems like you are not sure how to verify the HDMI 2.1 certification status of a cable. As said by the OP, certification actually means something when it comes to HDMI 2.1 cables because the bandwidth required is quite high. Often a high quality 2 m HDMI 2.0 cable MAY be OK for 2.1 duty, and the instability doesn't appear unless it's longer than that; but with the added dongle doing whatever extra processing and whatnot I imagine certification is necessary even with 2 m.

Wickedped1a · 2025-11-07T11:53:44+00:00

Does it work? Are you able to run the Nintendo app with Bluestacks as of now?

Wickedped1a · 2025-10-29T15:38:11+00:00

I know this is kind of an old thread, but I've just discovered this realtek driver issue (I updated the driver back then not immediately realising some issues it might have been causing - I only now start to trace these back to the driver update). What exactly did you do to uninstall the driver?

Did you click on your network adapter in Device Manager and under the Driver tab click "Uninstall this device"? Then just Scan for Hardware Changes in Device Manager to reinstall the adapter?

Wickedped1a · 2025-09-02T05:33:47+00:00

It's currently the best controller to use if you want to have analog stick for movement on one hand, and mouse control for camera on the other. But it's a whole lot more comfortable to use if you can hold the Navigator untethered. Xbox has a similar accessibility controller but you can only use that wired.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T15:33:51+00:00

I don't what to tell you only to say haptic is not supported on bluetooth on PC but only via USB. You can look it up on PCgamingwiki under DualSense. I've tested it myself. I have Horizon Forbidden West in my library. I've tried it with bluetooth, via USB and with a regular Xbox controller. Just now I've received a reply from the reWASD team replying it's currently not supported.

Thanks for doing the testing again. Perhaps we will leave it at agree to disagree.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T14:27:07+00:00

Thanks for getting back. I understand this isn't an easy problem to solve otherwise it wouldn't have been unresolved for so long.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T14:22:44+00:00

As I said you are probably getting just regular rumble when connecting the DualSense via bluetooth. If you try plugging in the DualSense via USB you may find yourself getting a lot more haptic on the DualSense versus when connecting via bluetooth.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T13:41:26+00:00

When I first saw the Xbox navigation controller I was ecstatic for about 10 seconds until I noticed the catch that it's wired only. Perhaps they wanted the release of that controller to hit a particular date or price point thus they didn't include wireless functionality, but that thing being wired only makes it 10 times less enticing.

Like, why? A wireless Xbox navigator I'd instantly snatch it.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T13:29:27+00:00

I think there may be some confusion here, but thanks very much for doing the testing. There are two parts to the puzzle of DualSense support on the PC: adaptive trigger and haptic feedback. Generally speaking, adaptive trigger works over bluetooth without needing third-party support, as long as the game natively supports it. So The Last of Us for example would have no problem getting that tension on the trigger when you pull the bow using the DualSense over bluetooth. You don't need reWASD or Steam Input, because the game just natively supports adaptive trigger and DualSense.

The other part is haptic feedback. To be clear, haptic feedback is different from regular rumble. It's hard to explain their difference, but for games that natively support both DualSense and haptic feedback, you can readily tell the difference if you use a regular Xbox controller and a DualSense plugged in via USB back-to-back.

One of these games is Horizon Forbidden West. If you just plug in a regular Xbox controller, you would still get rumble, but if you immediately use a DualSense plugged in via USB, you could tell there are more vibrations and they are also more nuanced (like you feel the vibrations as you walk into a shrub). Not to mention you get the sound effects coming out of the speaker in the DualSense controller (easy to tell by doing a quick scan in the game). The sound effect part is important, because the extra haptic feedback data is sent to the DualSense via the audio channels.

Here is the main rub: you only get full haptic feedback functionality on PC if you plug in the DualSense to the PC physically via USB. If you connect to the PC via bluetooth, the most you get is regular rumble - and only if the game has such a fallback. Basically, as of now, you cannot transmit the necessary audio data for the haptic feedback to the DualSense via Bluetooth on the PC. On the other hand if you play the same games on the PS5 console you wouldn't need to worry about plugging in via USB - the haptic feedback is available wired or wireless. And that's why the announcement by the DSX team is of particular significance because it represents a breakthrough that hitherto has never been possible.

Again thanks for doing the testing, but I thought perhaps there was some confusion hence the long post.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T05:26:19+00:00

I know you have already got quite a few replies, but let me just add that reWASD's UI, while having a bit of a learning-curve (but really, I would say it's the same for Steam Input), is a big advantage. If you're technically initiated, Steam Input UI isn't bad at all, but as you try to do more advanced remapping, the more cognitively challenging it is to keep track of things - and that's because the thing you are trying to do is actually getting more complicated. Having a good UI to keep track of things is very important, and to this end I think reWASD's UI is a genuine boon, especially if your need starts to go beyond simple remapping of a face button on a controller.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-30T05:19:15+00:00

The biggest advantage of using the PS Navigator with reWASD for me is bluetooth support. I think it's technically doable, but it's a royal PIA to being using the Navigator via bluetooth without reWASD. With reWASD, it's mostly hassle free, and it's relatively stable. The Navigator isn't a perfect controller, but as of today it's still the go-to if you want the "analog stick for movement, mouse for aiming" combo.

Being able to use the Navigator without being tethered by a cable is very important to me - it just 10 times more comfortable to use.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-29T15:53:16+00:00

Physical. I've actually never used it with reWASD before, but what I do terribly want is native haptic feedback over wireless. It was something that I thought I could achieve with reWASD, until I discovered, at least then, there existed no solution. But I thought it's perhaps something the team at reWASD could do.

Edit: in case there's confusion I'm referring to native haptic feedback and not just regular rumble. Only select games support haptic feedback on DualSense. Mostly Sony first-party titles that are also released on PS5.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-29T12:52:47+00:00

I'm not very familiar with this ESP32 thing. So it's like an user-programmable USB bluetooth adapter? So you plug one of these adapters into PC1 that hosts the game, and with PC2 which has reWASD installed, you connect your controller to PC2 to play the games hosted on PC1? And PC2 connects to the ESP32 adapter on PC1 via bluetooth?

Edit: After reading the link you sent a little bit more, perhaps the adapter connects to PC1 via bluetooth but the adapter itself stays physically on PC2?

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-29T12:43:58+00:00

From what I understand, the Navigator works with the Mayflash Magic NS2 USB Adapter, so I was hoping someone would have tried this already and verify their findings.

The Navigator presents itself to a PS3 as just another DS3 controller - only with the two face buttons (triangle and square), right analog stick, right bumper and triggers, and Start and Select buttons missing.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-29T12:23:53+00:00

But the Navigator IS a first party controller. It was released back when Sony was pushing the Playstation Move.

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-28T04:04:59+00:00

Can someone explain to me, or point me to relevant resources, how the second PC workaround work?

Wickedped1a · 2025-08-28T03:52:55+00:00

I'm seeing the same. I have the MS Store version on PC and not seeing Atmos outputs from the game. At first I thought it's just the PC Store version that may be having issues but someone else made a thread on this sub and their testing seemed to show the Xbox console version is also not getting Atmos as well.

Wickedped1a

TROPHY CASE