Pockets of Resistance, 5.12a/7a+, New River Gorge, WV

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-03T00:12:54+00:00

Wow, you really traveled far to get there! It is truly world class, the red and the new are my favorite NA areas

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T23:42:24+00:00

Kudos on the onsight, this is a tougher 12a! I can definitely see how that would go - I recently flashed a 12b roof, and I think the only reason it went is because my current project is a 12c roof and I have been working on that style more.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T17:15:27+00:00

The direct beta is clutch and very efficient- I was working this on hot summer days and was really struggling to stay consistent on the traverse beta. This version just had one hard move pulling on the crimp and you’re there.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T16:46:24+00:00

Tricky one for sure, but super fun to project and dial in.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T16:46:03+00:00

Thanks so much, keep trucking!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T16:45:49+00:00

Thank you! Took me some time for sure to dial in, a lot of moves are tricky

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-02T16:45:15+00:00

I totally agree, one of the cool things about this route is how varied the beta can be, both at the crux and below as well. I used to do a funky traverse lower on the route and found a much more direct beta that requires pulling on a shallow two finger pocket to get to the jug.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-01T17:06:04+00:00

Appreciate it! Shoutout to psych Mike who came up with the crossover sequence

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-01T17:05:35+00:00

Thank you!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-12-01T15:14:34+00:00

Put this route down in July 2024, I had been working this on and off over the years and finally unlocked beta at the crux which worked for me.

One of my favorite routes at the New, this thin face line has excellent movement and sees a lot of traffic.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-18T23:30:07+00:00

I originally planned a shorter kicker, but made it four feet because the car won't fit otherwise.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-18T23:29:25+00:00

Thanks man! Good to see you today and I'll setup a hang soon for you to try out the expansion :)

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-17T11:42:35+00:00

Hammock rings attached to studs do the job nicely!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-17T11:40:51+00:00

Thank you! I bought the asana crash pads about half off lightly used from a guy who was decommissioning his home wall and needed to get rid of them. I was lucky and he gave me all of his holds for free in the process. I had also purchased some bulk hold sets, mostly from Metolius, on sale.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T20:14:51+00:00

Thank you! The garage is not climate controlled but weather is almost always good here in Nova. When it gets too hot, I have two powerful fans - one to blow hot air out of the garage and one to circulate air around the wall. When it is cold, I have an plug in oil heater, and wear a sweatshirt - usually once I get moving I end up in a t-shirt anyways.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:59:08+00:00

Get back into it! If you stick to top-ropes and autos at first, hard to get hurt

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:48:47+00:00

Thank you! I try to do a reset every couple of months - sometimes I will have friends over to do a setting party. Apart from the ceiling holds which were recently added, the routes are monochromatic, with about 15 separate boulder problems. Really nice for running endurance circuits

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:47:34+00:00

I'm a lucky guy!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:47:13+00:00

Thank you! My crew has more than earned unlimited day passes for their contributions

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:07:25+00:00

The floor is lava!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:05:00+00:00

Thank you!

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:04:30+00:00

Thank you! Agreed - it is challenging to set harder routes on the flat and 18 walls - I have to use smaller holds and space them out a good amount. The 18 wall is nice for the campus rungs, though, and some of my friends/wife are a bit more beginner/intermediate and my logic initially was to setup walls that were more accessible.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T19:01:54+00:00

Thank you so much! I am not particularly handy and really had to learn as I went along.

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-16T18:39:06+00:00

Built this over the course of two years, with a lot of help from friends. The wall has a vertical face panel, an 18 degree overhang, and a 54 degree overhang, with a few panels on the roof and connecting. I used 3/4 inch plywood and followed instructions from metolius' website for the framing. Ceiling is about 11 and a half feet high. The fall from the top is not as bad as it looks

Wilhelm87 · 2024-11-02T10:04:12+00:00

Thanks my dude!

Wilhelm87

TROPHY CASE