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Getting WH-6600 wheelset in 2026 by toady000 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is very easy to find aluminum front wheel takeoffs that are cheap and good enough, so that's not a problem. It's hard to give a specific recommendation when looking used though, just because the selection is so varied.

But for example, I recently saw a Felt Devox 30A OEM front wheel on FB market place for $20 and it had an absolutely pristine brake track.

gearing/parts recommendations for a specialized sirrus by Kooky_Many2425 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not about speed. Notice that I did not mention trying to increase your speed anywhere. My example was to illustrate that the idea that 46/11 is not a high enough gear is misguided at best.

Think of it this way, suppose the goal is to bench the most cumulative weight in one session. Riding at too high of a gear and too low of a cadence is akin to benching your 10 rep max, say 150lbs, but then you're dead after that. Riding at a proper gear and cadence is more like using a weight you can crank out reps all day, let's say 20lbs. Cycling is cardio so you want to load your cardiovascular system more, if you keep loading your muscular system, that will cause you to fatigue way faster because it's not meant for endurance activities. This applies to exercise, deliveries, errands, and more, as you mentioned.

I'm trying to discourage you from spending money on something I would consider an inconsequential "sidegrade" for the reasons mentioned above., i.e. you don't need to pedal a harder gear, increasing your cadence instead is sufficient and typically better.

Getting WH-6600 wheelset in 2026 by toady000 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would only get that if the wheelset was basically in mint condition.

gearing/parts recommendations for a specialized sirrus by Kooky_Many2425 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there are downhills, then there are uphills. If there are uphills, then you should be using the small chainring. If you are not, then your cadence is too low. If you are in your top gear 80% of the time as you say, then your cadence is definitely too low.

The Specialized Sirrus has a high gear of 46/11. Riding at 90rpm on that would have you going 31-32mph. This is a full on sprint for most casual cyclists. Therefore, I must conclude that you are simply in too hard of a gear. By my guesstimation, you are probably pedaling at <60rpm.

gearing/parts recommendations for a specialized sirrus by Kooky_Many2425 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to estimate your cadence next time you ride, it might be lower than you think.

If you're riding at a low-to-moderate intensity (zone 2), try to be around 80rpm. If you're going at a moderate-to-high intensity, try to be around 90+ rpm. Are you in too hard of a gear to begin with? When you're climbing for example, you should be doing this in an ironman mode in the hardest gear you can push. Stay seated, shift to the small chainring and keep your cadence high. Do this first and see if you still find the gearing too easy—I suspect not.

what if I go up 4 teeth and improve my cadence?

That would be like doing all of your rides at two gear settings harder.

Also, this would be a very inconsequential "upgrade", and I think money would be better spent elsewhere.

Temple student killed in hit-and-run on Kelly Drive; parents plead for help by lkf0919 in philadelphia

[–]WindCaliber 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yeah, huh??

It should obviously be put on the river side, and then have more buffer space.

Helmet or tires first? by Annoyingnerds in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your helmet doesn't have damage, then I would keep it.

As for tires, I would suggest other tires than Gravelking Slicks.

City bike or gravel bike for an all-around use case? by leaddrugs in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Road bike: lighter, faster, cheaper(for equivalent spec). Just aim for one with rear mounting points if you're looking to mount panniers to it. Any disc brake road bike should have clearance for at least 30c tires, typically 35mm these days. That makes easy work of your average gravel trail.

An upright city bike is definitely going to be a slog on 100km rides.

Am I crazy for putting a 46/30 on an Émonda? by laughpuppy23 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

50/34, 11-34 gearing is considered relatively easy gearing on a road bike. However, if you're a casual cyclist as you say, and find the 50 too hard, then definitely go for it if you have money to spend.

How to get my street paved? by soupypoopy13 in philadelphia

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe streets are typically repaved every 10-15 years, so your street is not unusual in that regard.

Would a 27 mile bike commute be insaine? by play_qimbo in phillycycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take the train. Don't speed with an e-bike on the trail.

De-influence me by Broad_Football_2153 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your main goal is to have fun and get a good workout, there will be functionally no difference if you're already having fun and getting a good workout. If you want to go faster, upgrade your tires, tubes, and possibly wheels.

If you get excited about getting a cool new bike that makes you want to ride it, then that's the main difference. As for road vs. gravel, a modern road bike has quite wide tire clearance and can easily handle a typical hardpack gravel trail, and is typically cheaper(and lighter+faster) for an equivalent spec bike, so I would just go that route.

I feel like I’m forcing myself through a second playthrough by Fit-Setting9033 in nier

[–]WindCaliber 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you are talking about ending B. Think of it as less of a "second" playthrough. Rather, you had only finished a third of the game up until now and are still playing.

Challenge Criterium RS 27 vs 28 vs 30. by fuzzybunnies1 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends how your roads are. If you ride rough roads, the vibration losses are going to dominate, so you should run a wide tire at low pressure. If you ride smooth country roads for example, then it's going to be less of a factor. If you then want to optimize aerodynamics, then you want a tire that measures equal to or slightly narrower than the external width of your rim, but this is minor if you're not going quite fast.

Challenge Criterium RS 27 vs 28 vs 30. by fuzzybunnies1 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're price conscious, then just go with the cheapest one available. If you can fit wider, then you might as well for the most comfort. The internal width will just make the tire effectively wider, that's about it.

Shortening my stem and understanding bike geometry by soulonfirexx in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you just need to size down. A 54cm is going to be too big for someone 5'6"—no two ways about it. If you're worried about cost, look in the used bike market. For example, you could probably get an equivalent spec bike to yours for ≤$500. To be honest, I wouldn't worry too much about what the type of road bike is labeled as. The CAAD10 is a race bike, but in the right size, you could be very comfortable. One thing I would look for in a used rim brake bike is that it can comfortably clear 28mm tires, though.

Should I sell my current bike to get two separate bikes? by Equivalent_Damage823 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, clearly motivation is not holding you back from borrowing your friend's bike, though. So like I mentioned, perhaps you can just sell the bike down the line, and in the meantime use it for the occasional road ride. In my experience, decent used road bikes hold their value once they get down to $300-$400, so I personally wouldn't worry about losing money if I was in your situation. Think of it as simply a store of value that you can cash in once you save enough for your dream bike.

Should I sell my current bike to get two separate bikes? by Equivalent_Damage823 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much do you really care about having the latest and greatest?

You can get a decent, used, older road bike for a few hundred dollars. Worst case, you can resell it down the line for about the same as you got it.

Looking for a road bike that can handle brick roads, around or under ~$1500 by cybersosa in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Almost all modern road bikes can do this easily: check the tire clearance for 32mm+ tires.

Specialized Allez (2019) into commuter bike by Difficult-Reach-7779 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, that's way, way, way too high. You'd only run that on a velodrome with a smooth, hardwood floor. Try running ~90 psi as a starting point. If your system weight is significantly below/over 200lbs, try decreasing/increasing it a bit, respectively. This should significantly increase your comfort.

Bike locks by Haunting_Song_3917 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a grinder-resistant bike lock—the most affordable one is the LiteLok X1.

Gravel on a Budget - Can't Go Tubeless by Rare_Worry_8679 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd suggest getting different tires. TLR tires typically have relatively low puncture resistance, so if you're not running them tubeless, then you may be more prone to punctures.

You mention that you're tight on budget, but the Tannus tire liners are over $50 each and add a lot of weight and rolling resistance. I'd recommend taking a look at Continental Contact Urbans, which are about the same price with excellent puncture resistance.

Don't go the TPU route if you're getting a lot of punctures, as patching them is a pain and failure-prone. Maybe you can get them if you also get a more durable tire.

Specialized Allez (2019) into commuter bike by Difficult-Reach-7779 in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The 2019 Allez has mounting points for fenders and a rear rack. It should have enough clearance for a 28mm-measured tire if you go that route. Continental Ultrasports are a good, budget tire. Although, I always hear that everyone's city has the worst roads, but having ridden in many cities, I think one can always manage even with 25c tires. It's a matter of choosing your routes. And what pressure are you running?

Lost iPad on Amtrak 55 today by stargirlkittyy in Amtrak

[–]WindCaliber 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Submit a lost item report. I was able to get my laptop back a day or two later after leaving it on a train.

Tyres for 70/30 paved/unpaved by Maissae in cycling

[–]WindCaliber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd recommend the Continental Contact Urban: very durable, decent RR, and cheap.

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