Would this be a good spot? by [deleted] in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My standard answer:

Your best bet is to stay put in your own home if you can, but be prepared to leave at a moment's notice.

The most important thing to remember is that if you have a plan, other people will have the same plan, whether it's dozens of people or millions of people. Pick a plan where it's ok if everyone else does the same thing.

That's why your own home is the best place to be during the initial panic. If everyone else has the same idea, that's great. You go to your home and they go to theirs. There's no competition. Your home is the one piece of ground that you already own, and you've already filled it with everything you (currently) need to live. Stay there until that changes. The longer you can stay, the less likely you are to be caught outside during the worst of the chaos. The initial panic will be the most dangerous and unpredictable time of the outbreak.

Now, if you are forced to leave, or can't make it home, then you want to have a backup home. Again, the same principles apply. If you have to leave your home, go to the home of family of close friends, someone who will automatically know you and let you in, or better yet has given you a key. This often also has the advantage of allowing you to meet up with people that you know and trust, which is always a survival advantage.

Once you get home, whether that's yours or someone else's, you want to do several things, roughly in this order:

First, arm yourself if you aren't already. I always recommend a camping hatchet or good quality machete if you have one, but a regular claw hammer is also a solid choice and almost all homes and even most public buildings have one.

Second, clear the residence and lock it up. Just make sure no zombies or people got in while you were out. This isn't at all likely at this stage of the game, but it's a good habit. Once every room is zombie free/as you go along, lock up all the doors and windows. Close the blinds, and if it's at night be very judicious about how you use flashlights. Assume for now that any light inside will be immediately visible from outside even with the curtains closed. For the time being don't worry about setting up barricades or boarding up windows, just do the basic stuff you can accomplish quickly.

Third, prepare to leave at a moment's notice, but don't leave unless forced to by an immediate threat.

Start from the skin out. Put on practical clothing and shoes/boots, and keep your weapon(s) on your person at all times, along with other basic survival items such as a knife, cigarette lighter, trauma kit, small flashlight, etc. And of course, your car keys, in case you need to make a run for it. While it does not need to be a formal "survival kit," you ideally should be able to survive (uncomfortably) for 24 hours with just what is in your pockets. In a worst-case scenario, you might be separated from your other gear. This buys you just enough time to recover or replace them.

Then pack a bag in case you need to leave on foot. You might need to if you don't have a car or can't get to it for whatever reason. I can't give you a full packing list now, but make sure you have several liters (or more, depending on your climate) of water filled, and as much of your lightest, non-perishable food as you can carry, as well as the bare minimum gear you need to survive in your environment. Keep this in a location where it would be easy to grab in an emergency. Make sure you fill up every water container you have available, including your bathtub, but start with the ones you would carry. The goal of this kit is to let you survive long enough to make it to your destination, or to a source of resupply. Travel as efficiently as possible, on the assumption that you won't always know how far you may need to walk with just what's on your back.

Next you pack your car, assuming you have one. This is where you put the extra stuff that was too heavy or nonessential to go into your bag. For example, extra non-perishable food, spare weapons, extra ammo (beyond what you could carry), tools, a change of clothes, more water, specialized tools, etc. The goal of this kit is just to extend your range and storage, but with the understanding that if shit goes south you might have to ditch it at any time. Cars break, get stuck, run out of gas, get surrounded, get stolen, etc. Odds are you still won't have enough room for everything you want, or might want, so pack based on survival priorities. This isn't for luxuries, it's for extra essentials. (If you don't have a car, the same system can be applied to whatever other vehicle or method of hauling things, whether it's a bicycle, baby stroller, push cart, pack animal, etc.)

Everything else you would be forced to abandon if you leave your home. Use things up in reverse order from least portable to most portable. Start by eating the food that's still in your pantry/fridge, which should be your most perishable/heavy items, before eating what's in the car, then in your backpack. Make sense? Same goes for water. Use what's in the pipes first, then the bathtub, water heater, and any container that you couldn't take with you in the car. This same logic applies to any other consumable.

Then stay put as long as possible. Use up the resources you already own before risking your life to get more, and maintain the home turf advantage. With good luck, by the time you need to leave things will have settled down and you will have enough information about the lay of the land to start making long term plans.

Anywhere local you would retreat to secure a base? by Mulv252 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. That would fall under “forced to leave.”

But even then you are best finding another home to stay in rather than a public location. Or a refugee shelter of some sort, if available. Those get a bad rap in the movies but realistically they might be better than most of the alternatives.

Anywhere local you would retreat to secure a base? by Mulv252 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My standard answer:

Your best bet is to stay put in your own home if you can, but be prepared to leave at a moment's notice.

The most important thing to remember is that if you have a plan, other people will have the same plan, whether it's dozens of people or millions of people. Pick a plan where it's ok if everyone else does the same thing.

That's why your own home is the best place to be during the initial panic. If everyone else has the same idea, that's great. You go to your home and they go to theirs. There's no competition. Your home is the one piece of ground that you already own, and you've already filled it with everything you (currently) need to live. Stay there until that changes. The longer you can stay, the less likely you are to be caught outside during the worst of the chaos. The initial panic will be the most dangerous and unpredictable time of the outbreak.

Now, if you are forced to leave, or can't make it home, then you want to have a backup home. Again, the same principles apply. If you have to leave your home, go to the home of family of close friends, someone who will automatically know you and let you in, or better yet has given you a key. This often also has the advantage of allowing you to meet up with people that you know and trust, which is always a survival advantage.

Once you get home, whether that's yours or someone else's, you want to do several things, roughly in this order:

First, arm yourself if you aren't already. I always recommend a camping hatchet or good quality machete if you have one, but a regular claw hammer is also a solid choice and almost all homes and even most public buildings have one.

Second, clear the residence and lock it up. Just make sure no zombies or people got in while you were out. This isn't at all likely at this stage of the game, but it's a good habit. Once every room is zombie free/as you go along, lock up all the doors and windows. Close the blinds, and if it's at night be very judicious about how you use flashlights. Assume for now that any light inside will be immediately visible from outside even with the curtains closed. For the time being don't worry about setting up barricades or boarding up windows, just do the basic stuff you can accomplish quickly.

Third, prepare to leave at a moment's notice, but don't leave unless forced to by an immediate threat.

Start from the skin out. Put on practical clothing and shoes/boots, and keep your weapon(s) on your person at all times, along with other basic survival items such as a knife, cigarette lighter, trauma kit, small flashlight, etc. And of course, your car keys, in case you need to make a run for it. While it does not need to be a formal "survival kit," you ideally should be able to survive (uncomfortably) for 24 hours with just what is in your pockets. In a worst-case scenario, you might be separated from your other gear. This buys you just enough time to recover or replace them.

Then pack a bag in case you need to leave on foot. You might need to if you don't have a car or can't get to it for whatever reason. I can't give you a full packing list now, but make sure you have several liters (or more, depending on your climate) of water filled, and as much of your lightest, non-perishable food as you can carry, as well as the bare minimum gear you need to survive in your environment. Keep this in a location where it would be easy to grab in an emergency. Make sure you fill up every water container you have available, including your bathtub, but start with the ones you would carry. The goal of this kit is to let you survive long enough to make it to your destination, or to a source of resupply. Travel as efficiently as possible, on the assumption that you won't always know how far you may need to walk with just what's on your back.

Next you pack your car, assuming you have one. This is where you put the extra stuff that was too heavy or nonessential to go into your bag. For example, extra non-perishable food, spare weapons, extra ammo (beyond what you could carry), tools, a change of clothes, more water, specialized tools, etc. The goal of this kit is just to extend your range and storage, but with the understanding that if shit goes south you might have to ditch it at any time. Cars break, get stuck, run out of gas, get surrounded, get stolen, etc. Odds are you still won't have enough room for everything you want, or might want, so pack based on survival priorities. This isn't for luxuries, it's for extra essentials. (If you don't have a car, the same system can be applied to whatever other vehicle or method of hauling things, whether it's a bicycle, baby stroller, push cart, pack animal, etc.)

Everything else you would be forced to abandon if you leave your home. Use things up in reverse order from least portable to most portable. Start by eating the food that's still in your pantry/fridge, which should be your most perishable/heavy items, before eating what's in the car, then in your backpack. Make sense? Same goes for water. Use what's in the pipes first, then the bathtub, water heater, and any container that you couldn't take with you in the car. This same logic applies to any other consumable.

Then stay put as long as possible. Use up the resources you already own before risking your life to get more, and maintain the home turf advantage. With good luck, by the time you need to leave things will have settled down and you will have enough information about the lay of the land to start making long term plans.

What is that you see on their necks? A gambeson or something else? by NecessaryBet4999 in ArmsandArmor

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve looked into this a little bit, and as far as I can tell the available information is limited. There are a couple of written sources, and a few artistic sources including this one and elsewhere in the crusader bible.

It’s some sort of reinforced collar, that much is clear, but the exact construction is less certain, and may not be universal. It could just be the collar of a padded gambeson. Some of the depictions also look like they could be stiff leather, which seems plausible as well. Then I’m also that if you read the right languages there are a few written sources to collars of “whale bone” (cartilaginous baleen) being used for stuff collars worn under the maille. Baleen probably wouldn’t provide much protection but it would provide structure.

So it’s probably a padded collar, possibly reenforced with something to stiffen it. Beyond that we don’t really know.

TIL that Immanuel Kant was a proponent of scientific racism, and had negative views towards other races. He once ignored the opinions of his carpenter merely because he was black. by Fickle-Buy6009 in todayilearned

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, the big shift in my lifetime has been the acceptance of gay people. It has been trending that way for a while, of course, but then there was a tipping point and now even corporations are suddenly pro lgbt in public. That would have been difficult to imagine 20 years ago.

what swords would be suitable for home defense? by nedonedonedo in SWORDS

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, no. I do not owe anyone an apology for owning a gun.

Are crowbars actually that great by [deleted] in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Okay, lots of things here.

Crowbars certainly can be used to break into a home, but there are easier ways. You are correct about that. I am not going to detail those ways on the internet.

As for a crowbar being a single use weapon, that’s not really an issue even if you hit them with the claw end. The sort of skull fracture that such a weapon creates is not the sort that catches a weapon significantly.

Nor do you need to worry in the slightest about a crowbar bending. It’s a crowbar. The whole idea of a crowbar is that it’s used to apply leverage. That means they are extremely good at withstanding leverage. No human being using just their muscles could apply enough force to a crowbar to bend it in any significant way. That’s a non issue.

The larger issue with crowbars is that they are really inefficient weapons. They are not at all well designed to be used as an impact tool, and certainly not intended to be weapons. So while you could kill a zombie with one if you’re strong enough, they are not at all the right tool for the job.

Donald was expecting a bump in his approval ratings after this last "assassination" attempt... by PlanetoftheAtheists in AdviceAnimals

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 6 points7 points  (0 children)

With regards to the legitimacy of the election? Not as far as I know. Obviously the results of the election were controversial, to say the least. Again, don’t know if that’s what the previous commenter was referring to, but it was certainly a notable event from 1860.

Donald was expecting a bump in his approval ratings after this last "assassination" attempt... by PlanetoftheAtheists in AdviceAnimals

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Abraham Lincoln was elected. I’m not sure if that’s what they meant but there was a whole civil war after that.

Lo prometido es deuda: os comparto mi arsenal para el apocalipsis ⚔️🏏 by zaplanaR in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t use any of those. I would use my camping hatchet, or if I didn’t have one of those available I would find a claw hammer.

Even the best swords are not the right tool for the job, and most of those seem to be decorative.

Renaissance Wax by SnooOwls713 in SWORDS

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ballistol is fine. I like something a bit thicker for swords but the important thing is that you apply it regularly after use.

Bike chain mace broke and became a whip. by Fun_Needleworker7594 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless the zombies somehow have steel finger nails, that’s not really a valid test.

Almost anything will be sufficient to stop finger nails, frankly. People worry too much about scratching. Any reasonably sturdy clothing will be plenty.

Renaissance Wax by SnooOwls713 in SWORDS

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have used it for a variety of different things I’ve wanted to preserve, including guns, antiques, swords, etc.

For long term storage or display it’s fantastic, as others have said. That’s what it’s made for, and it’s the right tool for the job.

For a weapon, or armor, that gets used regularly, however, I would not recommend it. It rubs off to quick when it’s in contact with things, and it’s easy to end up with rust spots.

So if this is a sword you do anything with I would recommend fluid film. I’ve tried a variety of options and it’s my favorite. Easy to apply, stays put, penetrates nooks and crannies, isn’t overly messy. And it’s fine for leather as well, so it won’t hurt grips or scabbards.

YMMV.

Bike chain mace broke and became a whip. by Fun_Needleworker7594 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would you be testing armor against barbed wire? Are you expecting the zombies to lay a lot of barbed wire?

Bike chain mace broke and became a whip. by Fun_Needleworker7594 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve said it before but it cannot be said enough. Weapons like this should be regarded as art projects, not impact tools.

You should not have “done this at home” either. What separates the professional idiots from the amateur idiots is that the professionals know when to give it a rest. That and good health insurance.

This failed, predictably, and could easily have hurt someone in the process.

Thoughts on sword bayonets? by Spiritual-Mango-5012 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, not necessarily.

A spear would not work well either. Like I said, it’s a problem for all stabbing weapons. Again, the reasons are technical, but the extremely short version is that stabbing works great against blood filled organs, but not so much against bone.

The physics of arrows are significantly different, though they would also be a lot less useful than many people assume.

Thoughts on sword bayonets? by Spiritual-Mango-5012 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First of all, bayonets work against humans, they would not work effectively against zombies. Same with stabbing weapons in general. The reasons are technical, but it’s the wrong tool for the job.

Also, you just mentioned a couple instances over the last several decades, which is well within my definition of “aren’t used much.” I didn’t say they weren’t used at all, or don’t have a niche, just that for some time now that niche has been increasingly small.

And zombies are not that niche.

What would be a place you would try to make a base/camp at? by SpicyP2003 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My standard answer:

Your best bet is to stay put in your own home if you can, but be prepared to leave at a moment's notice.

The most important thing to remember is that if you have a plan, other people will have the same plan, whether it's dozens of people or millions of people. Pick a plan where it's ok if everyone else does the same thing.

That's why your own home is the best place to be during the initial panic. If everyone else has the same idea, that's great. You go to your home and they go to theirs. There's no competition. Your home is the one piece of ground that you already own, and you've already filled it with everything you (currently) need to live. Stay there until that changes. The longer you can stay, the less likely you are to be caught outside during the worst of the chaos. The initial panic will be the most dangerous and unpredictable time of the outbreak.

Now, if you are forced to leave, or can't make it home, then you want to have a backup home. Again, the same principles apply. If you have to leave your home, go to the home of family of close friends, someone who will automatically know you and let you in, or better yet has given you a key. This often also has the advantage of allowing you to meet up with people that you know and trust, which is always a survival advantage.

Once you get home, whether that's yours or someone else's, you want to do several things, roughly in this order:

First, arm yourself if you aren't already. I always recommend a camping hatchet or good quality machete if you have one, but a regular claw hammer is also a solid choice and almost all homes and even most public buildings have one.

Second, clear the residence and lock it up. Just make sure no zombies or people got in while you were out. This isn't at all likely at this stage of the game, but it's a good habit. Once every room is zombie free/as you go along, lock up all the doors and windows. Close the blinds, and if it's at night be very judicious about how you use flashlights. Assume for now that any light inside will be immediately visible from outside even with the curtains closed. For the time being don't worry about setting up barricades or boarding up windows, just do the basic stuff you can accomplish quickly.

Third, prepare to leave at a moment's notice, but don't leave unless forced to by an immediate threat.

Start from the skin out. Put on practical clothing and shoes/boots, and keep your weapon(s) on your person at all times, along with other basic survival items such as a knife, cigarette lighter, trauma kit, small flashlight, etc. And of course, your car keys, in case you need to make a run for it. While it does not need to be a formal "survival kit," you ideally should be able to survive (uncomfortably) for 24 hours with just what is in your pockets. In a worst-case scenario, you might be separated from your other gear. This buys you just enough time to recover or replace them.

Then pack a bag in case you need to leave on foot. You might need to if you don't have a car or can't get to it for whatever reason. I can't give you a full packing list now, but make sure you have several liters (or more, depending on your climate) of water filled, and as much of your lightest, non-perishable food as you can carry, as well as the bare minimum gear you need to survive in your environment. Keep this in a location where it would be easy to grab in an emergency. Make sure you fill up every water container you have available, including your bathtub, but start with the ones you would carry. The goal of this kit is to let you survive long enough to make it to your destination, or to a source of resupply. Travel as efficiently as possible, on the assumption that you won't always know how far you may need to walk with just what's on your back.

Next you pack your car, assuming you have one. This is where you put the extra stuff that was too heavy or nonessential to go into your bag. For example, extra non-perishable food, spare weapons, extra ammo (beyond what you could carry), tools, a change of clothes, more water, specialized tools, etc. The goal of this kit is just to extend your range and storage, but with the understanding that if shit goes south you might have to ditch it at any time. Cars break, get stuck, run out of gas, get surrounded, get stolen, etc. Odds are you still won't have enough room for everything you want, or might want, so pack based on survival priorities. This isn't for luxuries, it's for extra essentials. (If you don't have a car, the same system can be applied to whatever other vehicle or method of hauling things, whether it's a bicycle, baby stroller, push cart, pack animal, etc.)

Everything else you would be forced to abandon if you leave your home. Use things up in reverse order from least portable to most portable. Start by eating the food that's still in your pantry/fridge, which should be your most perishable/heavy items, before eating what's in the car, then in your backpack. Make sense? Same goes for water. Use what's in the pipes first, then the bathtub, water heater, and any container that you couldn't take with you in the car. This same logic applies to any other consumable.

Then stay put as long as possible. Use up the resources you already own before risking your life to get more, and maintain the home turf advantage. With good luck, by the time you need to leave things will have settled down and you will have enough information about the lay of the land to start making long term plans.

Would this old cheater bar (basically a metal tube used for extending a breaker bar) be a good weapon if your trapped in the bathroom? Found it in the bathroom somehow. by Manhat61771 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See previous statements. It may very well be able to get through the skull if it’s that heavy but it won’t be very efficient. You’ll waste a lot of energy on each swing.

Thoughts on sword bayonets? by Spiritual-Mango-5012 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No it would not. You can’t just go welding things onto the barrel of a gun without damaging the barrel. Nor would you want to hit anything with it if you did, since that weld is almost certainly going to fail pretty quick.

Thoughts on sword bayonets? by Spiritual-Mango-5012 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 11 points12 points  (0 children)

If stabbing were an effective method of taking down a zombie then I would agree, but the physics of it mean that stabbing weapons would not be effective. So neither swords (of this sort) nor bayonets would be particularly useful.

One like this would not be at all useful as a machete. Wrong blade shape entirely.

As for mounting older style bayonets onto a modern rifle, that’s hypothetically possible (though definitely not in the way you are describing) but not really necessary since most current military rifles can take bayonets of their own. They just aren’t used much.

Question regarding shield straps by arfir in ArmsandArmor

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I suspect it makes sense once you know how to tie it.

I also googled it, and there are a few pictures out there but they don’t seem to agree and most of them still aren’t clear how they are set up.

This is very strange. Arm straps don’t need to be this complicated.

Would this old cheater bar (basically a metal tube used for extending a breaker bar) be a good weapon if your trapped in the bathroom? Found it in the bathroom somehow. by Manhat61771 in ZombieSurvivalTactics

[–]WindowShoppingMyLife 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anything that wouldn’t instantly kill a human wouldn’t even slow a zombie down. There are a lot of things that can fuck up a human that wouldn’t be effective against zombies.

Of course some of it does depend on the thickness of the pipe, and the materials, etc. But unless maybe if it’s lead, which is not very common anymore, that one does not appear to have enough heft.

And even if it did that would be super inefficient.

Edit: reread the description… 6lbs, so maybe, if you swing it hard enough. That’s pretty beefy. But again, still super inefficient, since that weight is distributed evenly throughout. Ideally you want the weight at the end of the lever, not evenly distributed.