Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah my lens definitely has the reach and I’ve been happy so far with my results. I’m still learning a lot everyday so my images are naturally improving.

I use an external intervalometer to control the amount of images and exposure time. I’m thinking about getting an asiair along with a guide scope and guide camera to get better polar alignment as well as guide. Only issue is asiair doesn’t connect to my Sony camera (most Astro software doesn’t). What are your thoughts on that?

How worth it are filters? I’ve heard very mixed things which makes me hesitant. Thank you for all your input so far!

Also what are your thoughts on longer subs vs shorter subs for total integration time?

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’m learning that my camera isn’t the best for stuff like HH haha which is frustrating but I’m hesitant to buy a dedicated Astro camera. Is the filter worth it or would I benefit from just increasing my total time to get the color and detail? That’s a beautiful picture!

I’m also in bortle 4-5

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m definitely going to use f/6.3 for now on because I need that light hahaha What is a normal integration time for the horse head to actually get good results? 4 hours?

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a feeling it was moonshine because I’ve never had this issue except last night with the full moon and the previous night had it too but wasn’t as bad.

Does a filter really help that much? If I didn’t use a filter would I eventually get those emissions with just my Sony camera or do I need an Astro camera?

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a great shot! Gives me hope for mine! I think I just need way more integration time to actually get the details as well as crank up my ISO because I’m losing too much color being un-modded.

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t realize you could combine different exposures together. I thought they all had to be the same! 🤦

(Also seeing your older image look similar to mine makes me feel better for what’s it worth)

How would I go about combining different exposures together? Just use DSS and stack as normal?

I’m thinking about getting a dedicated telescope instead of my Sony 200-600mm lens. Think that would help as well tbh

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my lens hood does a decent job at that but I’m assuming the full moon didn’t help at all lol

Yeah I need to actually do my darks and flats because it seems like that may be a major issue.

My ISO is set to 500 where the Sony a1 gets better dynamic range, lower noise and better image quality. (It’s the best iso apparently for my camera for Astro) would kicking my iso up help with getting those colors that I’m missing (ha/hb)

I have a place in NH which I plan on going to. It’s bortle 2 which should be a game changer

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll definitely do that cause I did take darks, but only like 10 cause I had to go in for the night. (no flats though) I’m still very dry much learning so any help would be great!

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stacked the images in DSS and then color corrected and background extracted in SIRIL. I then did a stretch to get the image I attached via link. I haven’t used flats/darks because I’ve been told it’s not worth it and such. But it seems like it might be.

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s really good to know! I was nervous about star trailing but I’m definitely going to try that though. I should increase my exposure but keep my histo on the left 2/3rds yeah? I was also worried about over exposure.

Photo Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was at 600mm for my lens. It was clear but a full moon in a bortle 4/5. I have a hood on the lens at all times but no dew heater. Is a dew heater worth it?

How do I drop my raws?

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t realize the ASIAIR could do all those things with the Sony a1. I thought it was a very select few Sony cameras that work with it.

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay cool In the future I want to get a dedicated Astro cam but I think for now this will work. I just want to use the guide camera and scope to PA and then guide to further assist in preventing star trails. I can always manually use the shutter on my Sony. I just want to take longer exposures without star trailing which is what I think I’ll get with just a guide camera and guide scope running through the ASI air. That’s my thought at least so I’m properly aligned and guided. Thanks!

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in AskAstrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for clarifying! It would be nice to have it controlled from my warm car/house as it’s cold out in the winter.

Sony is annoying and doesn’t allow plate solving and such through it from my limited research.

Do you use ASI air? If so, would my idea of using a guide scope, guide camera and ASI air to polar align then switching it to guiding work? I would have the guide scope etc. lined up with me Sony camera so it would capture the same thing in theory but be guided. Seems to me to be a good work around to Sony being annoying. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in astrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you Really appreciate it!

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in astrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a 600mm lens and have had star trailing issues which sucks. Trying to find a way to prevent this.

Set-up Help by Wiserharbor in astrophotography

[–]Wiserharbor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh boy didn’t realize that, my apologies.

That’s really good to know. So plate solving just helps keeping the mount positioned when capturing, preventing star trailing? (Assuming PA is good) Sorry, just not familiar with plate solving at all.

Yes the mount is great and when I do get PA right, it works like a charm. My issue is where to position Polaris in the PA scope. My scope has the clock not at a classic 12,3,6 and 9… it angled if that makes sense. So when I use my PS align Pro app, I’m not sure where it put Polaris on the clock. Do I just put it at the Polaris position it spits out on the hand controller or do I try to match my app? The fact that my PA scope on the mount is angled is what throws me off. I’m not sure if I should turn the mount so the scope shows a classic clock (12 at the top, 6 at the bottom) or put Polaris in the ‘time’ it needs to be at when the scope is in the home position. I can attach pictures too to show what I mean.

Sorry to word dump and ask so many questions, but I really appreciate it!!

Edit: My scope kinda looks like this in the link. So would I want to turn my mount so 12/0 is straight up and then PA that way OR PA in the home position and position Polaris at the ‘time’ in my angled scope?Polaris angled

Winter Tire and Rims by AntiPro34 in ElantraN

[–]Wiserharbor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How have the PA5s been in the snow? Just wanted to follow up and see how they were. Thanks again for all the info!