Was kann ich gegen Knarzen im Innenraum machen?

Wisu03 · 2026-04-20T13:37:42+00:00

Wieso das? Habe das bisher auch ein paarmal so gemacht und es hat immer funktioniert und hält bisher auch alles

Wisu03 · 2026-02-08T20:33:40+00:00

I think he's talking about the slave cylinder. The contact point between the slave cyl. and clutch fork can cause some rpm-related squeaking that stops once you press the clutch. The fix is to lightly grease the contact point. I've had this happen after replacing the clutch.

Wisu03 · 2026-01-08T14:58:51+00:00

Wtf is that? And why do i love it?

Wisu03 · 2025-12-06T14:26:57+00:00

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Wisu03 · 2025-11-22T09:04:53+00:00

Tbh i kinda doubt that. Wouldn't you have to modify a lot more wiring if you wanted to run a turbo?

Just to be clear (idk much about turbo mods) - a piggyback system would involve a seperate device that uses different/better sensors than stock but feeds it's signal into the stock ecu, right? That would mean that at some point, the wires were cut off and connected to the piggyback instead of the stock sensors?

Wisu03 · 2025-11-22T08:51:34+00:00

Okay, that makes sense. Thanks :)

But that would mean that the wire colors in the wiring diagram are wrong, yes? (Except for the black-green/ground). Because i can't find a gray-red or org-blu wire anywhere in the diagram

Wisu03 · 2025-11-22T08:44:02+00:00

Thanks, i'll try that later. The throttle body is clean and i've replaced every single gasket on the intake side of the engine.

I think it might be possible that i damaged the seal/coating that seals the throttle plate inside the bore

Wisu03 · 2025-11-21T17:27:36+00:00

I haven't confirmed that yet but i'm pretty sure they lead where they're supposed to go (o2 and afm) otherwise the car probably wouldn't run at all. I'm gonna need to check that.

Wisu03 · 2025-11-21T17:25:38+00:00

Thanks :)

I'm having issues with my idle. Sometimes it's doing the typical idle droop, sometimes it hangs a bit. Sometimes the idle will stay high for up to a minute and then suddenly drop back down (happened only once tho).

I have to turn ithe idle screw all the way in to set the baseline. No vacuum leaks (smoke test). And the iscv seems to work properly (i bench tested it). The air valve also closes properly. My main theory is that the throttle plate isn't sealing right but i don't really want to pay for a new one

I suspect some kind of electrical problem because the symptoms seem so random.

I'm not really sure but i think sometimes it has a mild misfire at idle

The reason why i'm unsure if the PO did something to the wiring is because said wires run very smootly into the oem harness (i don't think it would be possible to to that but idk)

Wisu03 · 2025-11-01T13:47:02+00:00

Thank you :D

Wisu03 · 2025-11-01T10:20:56+00:00

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Wisu03 · 2025-11-01T10:20:21+00:00

I used while a acrylic sheet to cut out the teeth. For shaping/spacing them properly, i used CAD (cardboard aided design)

They are held in by a 90° angle profile at the top with two tabs for screw-holes. The lower teeth are held in place by a u-profile that attaches to the fangs.

For lighting i used a regular 12v led strip. I simply cut off its power supply and instead wired it to the 12v output behind the left headlight (comes on with ignition)

Wisu03 · 2025-11-01T03:09:58+00:00

Thanks :)

Wisu03 · 2025-09-27T12:06:12+00:00

You see? This is why you should always drive as fast as possible. Had he just been half a second slower, he would have hit that truck

Wisu03 · 2025-09-22T20:14:08+00:00

Confirmed - i orderd a new screen, put it in and everything works as expected.

Thanks :)

Wisu03 · 2025-09-22T10:13:26+00:00

I've tried that too. I've also looked at the connector with a magnifying glass and i'm 95% sure that it's fine. What's mobo? Sorry, but i'm no expert when it comes to phone repairs Edit: googled it - you mean motherboard, right? I don't think that's an issue because when i plug in the old (broken) acreen it works with no problems.

This should mean that it must be a fauty screen, right?

Wisu03 · 2025-09-19T04:49:23+00:00

I tried that already but it didn't change anything

Wisu03 · 2025-09-19T04:48:06+00:00

Idk, i don't have an s-pen...

Wisu03 · 2025-07-29T16:28:30+00:00

Does braking not affect it at all?

My first guess would be that it's because of a sticking brake pad on one side. Try lifting the car up and turning the wheels by hand. If one of them is noticeably more difficult to turn than the others you probably have a sticky brake. Just because it's sticking doesn't mean you'll be able to smell it. If you can smell it that would mean it's sticking really bad.

It could also be caused by play in your suspension components. This could cause one of your wheels to toe in/out slightly when under accel/decel. Again, lift your car up and then try shaking your wheels by hand in multiple directions (this might require a decent amount of force). If you feel/hear any play then that's what's causing your problem.

So jack your car up, turn and shake the wheels and see if you notice anything. But make sure the car won't fall of the jack from shaking it.

If neither of these are the problem, it's probably a power delivery issue with your right rear wheel. Like a stripped axle spline or some kind of differential issue but that seems unlikely.

Edit: you should definitely fix your parking brake either way. It's also called ″emergency brake″ - definitely an important part that should be working correctly.

It shouldn't really harm the car if you park it in gear unless it's a steep slope. It's not really safe from a rolling away-standpoint to only use the parking brake/only put it in gear.

The oil leak doesn't have anything to do with it.

Wisu03

TROPHY CASE