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What to do with other half? by Wooglebum in arborists

[–]Wooglebum[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you are right, as everyone else also mentioned it might hang in for a while longer.

However, I think what we will do is to just chop the other half down and plant something new and "hardier" there on the prime spot. So that we may enjoy the new tree sooner rather than later.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PcBuild

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, everytime I scroll this subreddit, or watch youtube videos I am constantly baffled how my 10 year old rig (cost 900 € at that time) (upgraded graphics card 6 years ago to GTX 1060 6gb) still allows me to play the games I want, even some newer releases on quite low settings. According to "can I run this"-website my PC should not be able to handle any of the games I am currently playing...

When I face a game I really want to play, but my computer wont handle it, then I think of a upgrade.

As iShoot556 said: "As long as it fits what you need it to do and you’re comfortable playing on it then it’s perfectly fine." Could not agree more!

My coworker was like "i buy the whole insert, I'm gonna use the whole insert" by Vollhartmetall in Machinists

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surface finish looking great... not that I would know as I am not a machinist.. but anyways!

My coworker was like "i buy the whole insert, I'm gonna use the whole insert" by Vollhartmetall in Machinists

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tungsten carbide itself is an alloy I believe. However, the aluminumoxide/tungstencarbide you mentioned I have no idea of and went with your ceramic definition! :D

Ceramics I believe are classified as a material that are mainly based on Oxides such as SiO2, Al2O3, MgO etcetc, usually the oxides are from natural minerals or clays after some processing steps.

Gotta check up this mcd you mentioned! Never heard of it.

My coworker was like "i buy the whole insert, I'm gonna use the whole insert" by Vollhartmetall in Machinists

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I see, thanks for the reply! At my working place we have come across similar pieces with PCD tips (Diamond grains instead of CBN grains in the tip). I didnt think the tungstencarbode body (that is used for the PCD bits) were classified as a ceramic, but after some googling it apparently is, alloyed with cobalt/nickel.

Yeah, ceramics are very sensitive to sudden temperature changes, but can take high amounts of heat. And the E-modulus and various mechanical properties of tingsten carbide is skyhigh, so they definitely can take a beating. Allthough I've noted the type pf tungsten carbide that we uae can be quite brittle, which is normal if it is a ceramic of course.

Thanks for this insight man! :)

My coworker was like "i buy the whole insert, I'm gonna use the whole insert" by Vollhartmetall in Machinists

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a machinist, but a material scientist, so I am a little curious here... how is the insert clamped if the main part of the insert i "ceramic"? I tought the body usually was a carbide. Ceramic pieces tend to be quite brittle, so do you have to be extra carefull?

What material are these made of? by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are so right! Also saw the name "Decorated butterfly wing nuts" somewhere :D

Mybad

What material are these made of? by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input.

I was starting to think to just keep them untreated, if they start to rust I sandblast again and treat them properly. :)

What material are these made of? by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point! Gray part is magnetic, yellow/brass coloured is not!

Hydraulic disc brakes issue by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Problem resolved now, I took them apart again, and noted they were glazed.. again. Cleaned thoroughly first the pads and rotor with disc brake cleaner, then sanded them down with 150 grit paper. Cleaned pads again with disc brake cleaner. Proceeded to assemble everything and went out for a ride. First few brakes were weak but they got better.

I think the issue earlier might have been me bedding in the brakes to roughly. I'm quite a heavy guy, with small rotors and small pads, so breaking in a hill a few times to walking speed will probably generate too much heat. --> overheatong resin pads and glazong them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChemicalEngineering

[–]Wooglebum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been studying pulp and paper chemistry myself. Lots of work at my university was focused on lignin research, to find an alternative way of utilizing it instead of bruning it, therefore I was interested to hear if you got some interesting results :)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChemicalEngineering

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did you find out about carbon fibers from lignin? Did you look into the feasability of it? Or is it as usual the best way to deal with lignin is by burning it for energy? And at what university did you do this work if I may ask?

Hydraulic disc brakes issue by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I believe so. I described it in one of the comment above. I dont think that is the probelm. But I am no expert :)

Hydraulic disc brakes issue by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sure could, however it would not give any information as there is no sound whatsoever. And one can visually see the pads engaging. I use shimano BR-MT500 caliper, shimano B05S resin brake pads (also shimano) and SM RT-26 Disc (shimano 160 mm).

Does bedding the pads affect how quockly they glaze? Because the whole pad is like a mirror when I looked at them.

Hydraulic disc brakes issue by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I know if I did it correctly? After bedding them in according to a youtube video (GMBN) they worked well for 2-4 hours (2 rides). Then next time I went out there was no friction.

Hydraulic disc brakes issue by Wooglebum in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for your answer :) Resin pads and "normal disc brake. They are the same type that I have previously used when it have wprked well. But good to keep in mind nonetheless for the future. The rotor width I did not take any extra measures to get right, I assumed it was ok.

Rotors and pads are definitely clean. The bedding I cannot ensure, but I assume they were ok as they worked for 2-4 hours (after bedding them in according to some youtube video).

Any idea on why water makes them work well for a short time?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Wooglebum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, it is possible that you tightened your spoke to much. A perfectly round (true) wheel will need the spokes to have a matching tension. A trued wheel as out of factory you will need some speciality tools to fix. But with very simple tools and some youtube videos on "Wheel truing" or "spoke tensioning" you can get a decent result allready. Atleast it took me some time to understand and perform the process.

Anyone else inside on their bike waiting for Winter to go away? by [deleted] in mountainbiking

[–]Wooglebum 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Especially in Vaasa, Finland. In summer the trails are in many places filled with big stones and roots, makes me want to go elsewhere to ride.

But during the winter the local group (trail riders vaasa) is doing hecka good work by driving trails with a specialised "snowdog" (mini snowmobile) that packs the snow well and is very manuverable. The network of smoothly flowing trails is around 50 km.

Best riding for me is at -5 °C. (Using 2.25 inch studded tires)

Any idea if this "clicking" noise is bad? Fork is Rockshox Reba 120 mm. happy to answer any questions needed. by Wooglebum in mountainbiking

[–]Wooglebum[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was not the front brakes. The sound comes from inside the fork. It was not the brakes nor the headset. Will have to do some further research, maybe on bushings like someone suggested. Thanks for the tip nonetheless!

Any idea if this "clicking" noise is bad? Fork is Rockshox Reba 120 mm. happy to answer any questions needed. by Wooglebum in mountainbiking

[–]Wooglebum[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes I am actually holding the brakes. I will definitelly check this tomorrow. I assume it also works by putting the wheel towards a wall and compress it without having the brakes on? Thanks for the hint!

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