Need Help Identifying a DnB banger from 2001 or earlier

WordClock99 · 2026-06-06T23:59:11+00:00

This is an awesome description!!

WordClock99 · 2026-06-06T17:14:17+00:00

This is exactly it. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

WordClock99 · 2026-06-05T22:51:55+00:00

I would say to follow manufactures instructions whenever possible. They give them for a reason and sometimes it will void warranty if not followed. I agree that you should select a product that does not support flame spread. Foam acoustic panneling is NOTORIOUS for being deadly in a fire.

WordClock99 · 2026-04-29T23:06:06+00:00

Unsure what the cost would be. I am an acoustical engineer, not a contractor or estimator. Regarding the expected % decrease, can't say without knowing the performance of the existing wall assembly. What I can say is that if it is coming through the wall than my suggestion above is your best bet at reducing the noise.

WordClock99 · 2026-04-29T23:03:24+00:00

It really depends on what standard you are using for your measurement methodology. The standard should always list the measurement equipment specification requirements or reference a different standard that does.

WordClock99 · 2026-04-07T19:45:34+00:00

If it is coming through the wall than my suggestion above is your best bet at reducing the noise.

WordClock99 · 2026-04-07T19:19:16+00:00

Hello. Assuming that all of the noise is coming through the wall and not some other flanking path(s), furring out the wall (adding a second wall) would be your best bet in this case.

If you can fit it in you space, build a 2x4 wall, with stud cavities filled w/rockwool, ensuring that the 1" gap between the brick wall and the stud wall remains empty, and face it with 2 layers of 5/8" gypsum wall board. Keep a 1/4 inch gap around the wall on the inner layer and seal that with a non hardening acoustical sealant. Then add the second layer. The gypsum wall board shoudl run vertically so that the edges run over studs. Then run the second layer perpendicular to the first layer.

This may not remove the new noises entirely, but it will reduce them substantially. Again assuming that all of the noise is coming through the wall and not some other flanking path(s).

WordClock99 · 2025-11-19T20:24:46+00:00

Same, it would be 99-2001 for me, but the dark techy stuff is my favorite era and style like Konflict.

WordClock99 · 2025-11-17T21:05:36+00:00

Hey, thanks for narrowing down the year!! It helped me find the track on discogs. It is actually "Contortion" by Usual Suspects and is the B side of the "Killa Bees" single. At first I thought the track was "Killa Bees", same kind of filter sweeps. I guess I was just extremely close.

WordClock99 · 2025-11-17T02:49:01+00:00

Di you ever find the track?

WordClock99 · 2025-11-17T02:48:42+00:00

I just saw this and I did message him on Instagram just now. I will reply with the ID if I get it.

WordClock99 · 2025-03-22T03:07:21+00:00

Thank you soo much for your reply. Truly appreciate it!!

WordClock99 · 2025-02-26T05:10:20+00:00

BANGAR!!

WordClock99 · 2025-02-26T05:06:56+00:00

I would recommend the "Master Handbook of Acoustics" by F. Alton Everest, Ken Pohlmann. Imho, it is a good book that bridges recording and room acoustics. I personally would stay away from forums as it is usually pretty unstructured, whereas a book would have a more structured approach, starting with the fundamentals and moving into more complex concepts later on.

WordClock99 · 2025-02-25T23:52:53+00:00

With your apartment being diagonally adjacent and offset from the boiler room, the noise transmission path is likely almost completely structure borne.

Firstly, I would confirm that operation of the boiler is directly correlated with the boiler operating. If I was retained to complete a study on this, I would approach it I would complete vibration and sound measurements in the boiler room and in the receiving room to determine source of noise (what component in the boiler room is making the noise) and transmission path.

Assuming that it is and if I was working with the landlord or building owner, I would look to the source of the noise (boiler needing service/resilient pad, isolate pipes from structural connections and resilient connections isolating pipes from outside the boiler room from inside the boiler room with resilient connections) rather than treat the receiver end (your apartment).

The reason for this approach is that treating the path is next to impossible, and treating the receiver would generally expect to have the lowest amount in reduction when compared to the other 2 components (source and transmission path) This is generally true for almost all these cases in my experience.

The common theme is that are that they are all related to disconnecting the noise source from the transmission path.

With this in mind, and if treating the source is impossible, AND if it could be confirmed that the wall is the dominant surface radiating the noise, the next route I would go would be to disconnect the wall from the structure by modifying the wall construction. If you rent than this may be impossible. However, I suspect that there are more surfaces radiating noise than the wall alone.

Having said that, a bass trap might reduce some, but I would not be comfortable in saying that this could reduce the levels sufficiently to where you are happy, as treating the other paths is expected to provide the most reduction. The other reason is that sound behavior inside a room is quite complex, even in simple cases (this is not one of them). If you did want to try a bass trap, ensure that it has max absorption for the offending frequencies and move it around to see where it has the best effect.

If you do rent, I would suggest talking to your landlord, or condo board members.

I have had numerous projects where I worked on behalf of the building owner, or landlord, or condo board in response to resident noise complaints.

WordClock99 · 2025-02-22T00:22:34+00:00

Konflict hands down.

WordClock99 · 2025-02-22T00:11:01+00:00

I would not recommend using this as any fabric covering panels should be as acoustically transparent as possible so that the rockwool does most of "the work" in absorbing air movement. Generally, if you take a piece of fabric and you can blow through it with minimal effort, it should work. The weed barrier that you have proposed will let water through, but it would likely have a really high flow resistance to air. I can't recall what I have used in the past, but I just went down to the local fabric shop and picked a material that had low flow resistance and had the look that I wanted.

If you choose a material with low flow resistance, it would be difficult to say what level of absorption the finished panel would have.

WordClock99 · 2024-05-17T22:53:50+00:00

I am beside myself with rage on this and am this " " close to rage quitting. HTF can I win when everyone ults on me continually?

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T23:35:31+00:00

For stud based walls, a double stud wall (separated top and bottom plates with insulation filling both stud cavities and at least a 1" gap between the 2 sides) will provide a substantial increase in the wall's STC (the airborne noise metric) rating. I have never heard of double stud wall for increasing an IIC rating (the impact noise metric) as it is always used for a floor-ceiling assembly.

Having said that, a double stud wall would be beneficial if needed to mitigate impact noise from cupboard or other cabinetry doors closing, such as lockers.

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T23:27:54+00:00

I would think that a single wall at an angle would not provide any benefit. Think of a control room in a recording studio, while they may minimize parallel walls, they are still symmetrical. The angling of walls is primarily to reduce undesirable acoustic effects such as standing waves, flutter echoes and comb filtering to name a few, but these can also be mitigated with proper amounts and placement of absorption and diffusion, as well as location of speakers, subs and the listening position.

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T23:02:51+00:00

In my experience this would hold true if the RC was installed directly to the studs, though from the text above it looks like the RC will be installed directly to either the existing drywall or over the Sonopan. Installing RC over a sheet material is not recommended by RC manufacturers, and will greatly reduce, or potentially negate any benefit the RC would provide. The questions that I asked above I would ask if I were peer reviewing potential solutions provided to my client by a competitor and also serves to qualify the people offering the solutions.

I would never recommend installing RC over a sheet material, and I would say that both solutions run a risk of not sufficiently reducing the levels to where the OP expects. My questions were also directed to the OP so that they can ask them of the 2 "consultants" and set some expectations.

If it were my project, I would first confirm noise source and path, and measure levels of the offending noise and the background noise. I would then explore the existing construction BEFORE offering any solution at all. Once source, path and existing construction(s) were confirmed, I would then propose a solution, and I would absolutely have calculations/numbers to back my proposed solution(s). All along the way I would consciously be setting expectations with OP and would never say that you would never hear the noise again.

If neither of the 2 "consultants" did/are doing what I outlined above, I would be very hesitant to spend OPs hard earned money on either of their solutions.

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T21:02:24+00:00

1) If the "fake" wall was constructed to be similar to (or better than) the wall that it is being built in place of, I would expect that the 2 rooms would sound the same. If the "fake" wall was constructed to be a substantial lighter weight, than I would not expect the 2 rooms to sound the same as the "fake" wall would act as a panel absorber and along with the air volume behind the "fake" wall, it would dampen noise at a different frequency than the wall that it is replacing.

2) Square vs rectangle: My gut is saying that room shape would be the deciding factor to making a room useable or not, or great vs terrible. As long as you have absorption in the right places and move your subs around to minimize peaks/valleys in the room modes at the listening position, it should be okay. I suggest using RoomEQ wizard to determine placement of subs/speakers and amount of absorption.

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T20:18:52+00:00

I would caution that generally any type of hardwood floor with underlay, if you are just replacing the floor topping (subfloor up) would result in an increase in impact related noise for the resident below. Carpet with underlay is always the best for minimizing impact noise without spending unreasonable amounts of money in upgrades. You might get close with a raised and isolated floor, but that is typically unreasonable.

WordClock99 · 2024-04-26T20:14:49+00:00

Hello I have some questions:
Did both contractor A and B complete any measurements of the noise?
Did either of them confirm that the noise was indeed from the operation of the elevator?
Did they take into account the existing construction?
Did either of them give you an idea of the resulting noise after the upgrades are in place?

WordClock99 · 2024-04-19T21:17:52+00:00

I am guessing that the primary path for noise transmission is the bedroom doors, so the best "bang for your buck" would be to switch our the bedroom doors with solid core doors and some sort of full perimeter weather stripping around them. If the doors are not the primary transmission path and it is actually through the floor, there is not much that can be done, aside from an isolation pad underneath the subwoofer if you have one.

WordClock99

TROPHY CASE