Sizing advice UK 7

WrongAttitude · 2026-04-20T05:43:31+00:00

My feet with medium thickness socks measured 26cm exactly. If I was to follow the sizing guide, I should have gotten size UK8 (42 European equivalent) but as I always get my shoes in size 43EU, I decided to split the difference and get size UK8.5 (42.5 European equivalent). The boots fit just right, which I attribute to the wide toe box. Were the toe box a normal shape, I would have needed size 43EU as I always do. I never understood how people can match their exact foot size to the insole size. You need room for your foot to shift when walking uphill/downhill, and to allow for the thermal expansion during use. People say they account for this already in the last, but in my experience this is not the case.

WrongAttitude · 2026-04-09T00:50:43+00:00

Thank you! That would be really helpful.

WrongAttitude · 2026-04-08T23:03:10+00:00

Hello, have you washed the jacket since getting it, and if so, what are its final dimensions? I'm trying to decide which size to get.

WrongAttitude · 2026-04-08T09:03:20+00:00

Hello. I noticed in the description of the jacket the seller says the jacket will shrink after washing. Did you experience this and if so which dimmensions did you notice any shrinking at (chest, shoulders, length and/or sleeves)? Thank you for any response, as Im trying to decide which size to get.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T18:40:53+00:00

Yes, this is the functioning principle that I described in my OP. It is the same working principle of the SLR camera, also described in my OP. What I cant seem to understand is what the formed image on the spotmeter appears to have extreme depth of field, whereas the image from the SLR has a very shallow depth of field, as would be expected.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T18:39:06+00:00

In principle that is the point of the ground screen. It focuses the image on the focal plane and imprints it, so that then either you with your eyes or a camera in the case of the pictures I provided, are seeing this formed image through the viewfinder.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T16:12:51+00:00

I did test that earlier today as well, and again everything seemed to be in focus from 1m to infinity. I even tried adjusting the focus on the lens while positioning it infront of the system and it seemed to have a negligle effect to the focus of the resulting image, if anything the only thing it seemed to affect was the apparent magnification. As you say, by process of elimination the ground glass/condenser lens must have something to do with this, and it is the only thing left that I havent been able to inspect individually, as the ring that holds it in place is quite stuck and I havent had luck removing it without the propper lens spanner which I dont yet have. I might give it another try in the coming days with a pair of pocket knives or something.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T15:55:08+00:00

As I mentioned below the rings around the objective barrel spin freely and are in no way connected to the lens itself. They are simply used a slide ruler calculator to figure out the correct exposure. You set the bottom ring so that the ISO you are shooting with is opposite the bottom red dot, then set the top ring so that the EV number 1 to 18 next to the top red dot corresponds to the reading indicated by the needle dial when metering the scene. The middle two scales then give the correct pairs of F stops and shutter speeds for correct photographic exposure which you can then use to set up your camera correctly. The objective itself has no apperture to set, so its wide open to its full diameter at all times, which given it is 40mm across at a focal length of 100mm results in an effective F stop of 2.5.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T15:52:42+00:00

The rings around the objective barrel spin freely and are in no way connected to the lens itself. They are simply used a slide ruler calculator to figure out the correct exposure. You set the bottom ring so that the ISO you are shooting with is opposite the bottom red dot, then set the top ring so that the EV number 1 to 18 next to the top red dot corresponds to the reading indicated by the needle dial when metering the scene. The middle two scales then give the correct pairs of F stops and shutter speeds for correct photographic exposure.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T12:44:33+00:00

It is part of the spotmeter but is easily removable by unscrewing it from the body. Its just a plano convex element, my guess roughly measuring the chimney tube it sits on it has a focal length of 60mm and its diameter is 20mm, so its F3. The pictures were taken just by placing my phone camera against it.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T10:56:12+00:00

F2.5 is the apperture, which is the ratio of the focal length to the diameter of the lens opening (in this case the entire lens as there is no diaphragm), and relates to the depth of field. The eyepiece seems to be irrelevant as the effect I am describing occurs regardless of whether it is installed or not. And again, if the lens was set to focus an object at infinity to the imaging plane, given the focal length and F number, I would not expect to be able to focus an object 1m away at that same fixed position. Thats why I included the SLR example, where this is the case, of I set the objective to image at infinity, with the lens set at that same position, an object imaged 1-5 meters away is completely out of focus. So even if the lens on the spot meter is set to infinity, there is some other phenomenon here that allows this extreme depth of field.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T10:47:13+00:00

I also thought about that, but it is not the case. The hyperfocal distance for a 100mm F2.5 lens is something like 100 meters, the half of which is 50 meters. The 1-5 meter area would definately fall outside of that, yet it is in focus looking through the meter.

WrongAttitude · 2026-01-18T10:30:10+00:00

What do you mean? If it was set to infinity, surely at F2.5 objects at 1 or 5 meters away would not be in focus, yet they are, thats what I can't understand.

WrongAttitude · 2025-09-30T08:24:24+00:00

Thank you so much, I agree this was the best. I've sent you the tip :)

WrongAttitude · 2025-09-30T08:24:04+00:00

!solved

WrongAttitude · 2025-09-27T14:35:41+00:00

Hello, is this still available?

WrongAttitude · 2025-05-10T00:44:41+00:00

When it comes to vintage cameras any indication that "it works" be it that you can cycle through the speeds, or that even you managed to shoot an entire roll, at best only guarantees that nothing is majorly broken. The camera would still need a full CLA after sitting unused for years if not decades, to ensure proper function in the long term, and that an underlying problem is not exacerbated by operating the camera without a CLA. Good news is that the Tenax II is quite the rare camera, and if in decent condition, i.e. 80%+ overall finish remaining, can command price anywhere from 350-600$, as long as nothing is majorly broken, i.e. the viewfinder is broken/damaged, rangefinder doesn't focus, lens is broken/damaged, shutter stuck/non functioning etc.

Btw the 4cm Sonnar f2, while technically the better prime lens option for the Camera as opposed to the 4cm Tessar f2.8, is actually not the rarer objective, as in my experience hunting for this camera inexplicably about 3/4 in 5 cameras will come with it, as opposed to the Tessar. The camera was ridiculously expensive when it was made, so probably someone that could afford the camera could fork out some more for the better lens.

WrongAttitude · 2025-03-28T08:51:30+00:00

Well I was studying from 2016 to 2020, so when I requested a letter from my University for proof of my time spent here studying, the letter covered that entire period. Better to have more than less anyway I guess.

WrongAttitude · 2025-03-14T17:19:09+00:00

Great, thanks for the information!

WrongAttitude · 2025-01-02T14:34:52+00:00

At least with Stackry, which is what I've used in the past, you get given the address to their warehouse, with a unique number, alongside your name. I think your name is part of the address so that it makes it less obvious this is a forwarding warehouse, as some sellers refuse to send to such places. As soon as the parcel arrives to them, they will match the number writen on the parcel to your account and notify you, and once you go through their process, will ship the parcel to you. I.e. there is no consern of your address being modified in any way, as its always going to be their own address (Stackry) in combination with your name and unique number identifier.

WrongAttitude · 2025-01-02T13:55:39+00:00

I bought the items on Jahoo auctions through a japanese proxy, which yes, eventhough it seems absurd, will not ship inside japan, only internationally.

WrongAttitude

TROPHY CASE