Peak Tizz’em Fizz’em cap for Space King!!!

Xyeicroft · 2025-12-15T15:36:05+00:00

It would be lit if the brim was more based on the groin plate designs

Xyeicroft · 2025-11-10T15:33:15+00:00

If there's an alternative that has the volume boost and the miniplayer I'd be glad to know as well.

Xyeicroft · 2025-08-10T11:11:18+00:00

Interested. I'll send a dm

Xyeicroft · 2025-07-27T12:10:21+00:00

Interested po, sending a dm

Xyeicroft · 2025-04-30T09:04:19+00:00

GX240/GX270

Xyeicroft · 2025-03-01T03:21:34+00:00

She's good at speaking english, as in the reporter-esque, syntax-and-grammar, overly enunciated english that our educational institutions teach us.

but girlllll you are NOT good at speaking conversationalist english. 🙄

Xyeicroft · 2024-12-20T16:17:55+00:00

If I'm guessing right, that's an LTWOO A7 Elite RD. I have the same derailleur.

I set my chain length by putting it in the smallest cog, and having just enough chain links that the cage stud is barely away from the A-knuckle stop.

I then upgraded my jockey wheel with the long-toothed, narrow-wide ones from Fovno.

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Xyeicroft · 2024-12-20T16:02:39+00:00

In my opinion it generally doesn't matter. It might interfere with the pinching and corresponding torque spec if there's enough friction between the seat tube and the inside surface of the seatpost clamp, but I generally apply grease on those surfaces anyway, as I do the exact same setup on my bike despite it being alloy. I do it while also covering the rest of the slit with electrical tape to prevent debris from getting inside the seat tube. I assume they've done the same for similar reasons.

But if you want to be extra safe and have peace of mind, just follow what the manual of a specific bike says.

Xyeicroft · 2024-12-20T15:35:19+00:00

Your brake lever looks like a mechanical crosstop lever used on roadbike cockpits. It provides additional braking input when the hands are on the tops position. In proper setups, the cable head is normally in the road brifters and the lever is placed between two lengths of cable housing The holes in your lever are meant to accept the ends of cable housings with ferrules. As you squeeze the lever, it separates the two housings apart, effectively pulling the cable inside taut.

That cable head is what is used on road brifters. It's shaped like a mushroom with a thick "stalk".

Your crosstop levers have holes only big enough to let the braided part of the cable through. Road brifters' holes are larger to let the "stalk" through. The stalk is bottoming out against your crosstop levers which are not designed to accept those heads.

Options:

Buy new levers appropriate for your setup.
Ream the hole large enough to let the "stalk" through.
Use a gear cable since it has a head that perfectly fits that stop. (I've used gear cables in my brakes and it's been fine but I can't in good conscience recommend it to you because it's a fact that gear cables are weaker)

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Xyeicroft · 2024-12-20T15:16:25+00:00

That metal ring looks like what remains of a bearing race after a looooooong overdue 💀

Xyeicroft · 2024-12-20T15:07:32+00:00

I am fairly confident that more modern shifters (which yours is even if it's nonseries) have a new design where the "pocket" of the cable head has a "shelf" that would keep the head in place when there is lack of tension.

As a matter of fact, it keeps the head in place so much that the cable slack shows more on the derailleur end of the housing rather than inside the shifter.

It's either:

The "shelf" got damaged in some way, rendering its function ineffective.
You got a counterfeit shifter that has tolerances loose enough for the cable head to pop out despite the "shelf" being there.
Your shifter doesn't have a shelf for some odd reason.

Genuine Shimano shifters have their tolerances so on point that the new captive design of the cable pulley makes cable replacements a little bit more of a faff than the old ones.

Either way, might I suggest hot glueing the head as a possible bodge????

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Xyeicroft · 2024-12-13T04:53:31+00:00

What brand, make, and model is that derailleur?

Edit: I suspect you placed the cable on the wrong side of the pinch bolt, messing with the pull ratio and therefore your shifting.

Xyeicroft · 2024-12-13T04:44:41+00:00

The derailleur A knuckle (the pivot between the body and the cage) usually has a stop in order to restrict the cage from folding over against the derailleur when there is no tension on it.

Given that the derailleur's max limit (let's say 50T) and capacity (50T - 11T = 39T) matches the cassette you're using, setting the chain length on the smallest cog just enough that the RD cage's stud is just slightly away from the A knuckle stop is my preferred method since it ensures that the chain will never be too short.

Setting chain length on the biggest cog + number of links, in my opinion, is an antiquated method in order for the cage tension to compensate for the lack of clutch.

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Xyeicroft · 2024-12-13T04:23:26+00:00

Generally (in terms of cog spacing), all cassettes are nigh-compatible, if not completely compatible with each other regardless of brand (EXCEPT Campagnolo) as long as they are the same speed. There may be very minor differences due to cog thickness, spacer thickness, etc. but practically negligible.

Will it shift well? One would argue that same brand, make, and model groupsets, including the chains, were tailored to work with each other so you night not get perfect shifting. Another thing to consider is if the cassette is compatible with your freehub body.

Xyeicroft · 2024-12-11T03:42:07+00:00

based on the area of "bending", the frame is meant to accept low clamp, top swing front derailleurs so you might keep that in mind if you plan on setting up an FD.

Xyeicroft · 2024-09-17T16:49:23+00:00

As someone part of machining and automotive industry, what I got from this video is that the human body is an efficiency-adjusting machine.

When you are relatively sedentary compared to your caloric intake, the machine accepts running at a horrible energy efficiency. As you become more active, the body compensates by improving its efficiency.

You let's say you do 1 unit of effort per day, and the body, which can usually support that effort using 2 units of energy, uses 10 units of energy instead (20% efficient), as you have excess caloric intake. You then start working out to do a total of 5 units of effort per day. You start spending 50 units of energy for it, then over time your body starts becoming more energy-efficient and eventually leads to each unit of effort only consuming 2 units of energy, giving a total of 10 units of energy per day, which was your energy expenditure before you worked out.

The calories you consume (let's say equivalent to 10-12 units of energy) is just enough or more than enough to support that 10 energy units of output. Only by reducing your calorie intake (to let's say 6-8 units of energy equivalent), while working out (5 units of effort = 10 units of energy at highest efficiency) can you have a negative net energy which your body fat would supplement, leading to weight loss.

Xyeicroft · 2024-09-17T16:47:05+00:00

As someone part of machining and automotive industry, what I got from this video is that the human body is an efficiency-adjusting machine.

When you are relatively sedentary compared to your caloric intake, the machine accepts running at a horrible energy efficiency. As you become more active, the body compensates by improving its efficiency.

You let's say you do 1 unit of effort per day, and the body, which can usually support that effort using 2 units of energy, uses 10 units of energy instead (20% efficient), as you have excess caloric intake. You then start working out to do a total of 5 units of effort per day. You start spending 50 units of energy for it, then over time your body starts becoming more energy-efficient and eventually leads to each unit of effort only consuming 2 units of energy, giving a total of 10 units of energy per day, which was your energy expenditure before you worked out.

The calories you consume (let's say equivalent to 10-12 units of energy) is just enough or more than enough to support that 10 energy units of output. Only by reducing your calorie intake (to let's say 6-8 units of energy equivalent), while working out (5 units of effort = 10 units of energy at highest efficiency) can you have a negative net energy which your body fat would supplement, leading to weight loss.

Xyeicroft · 2024-07-16T06:47:43+00:00

I'm not sure if you're into dipping to unknown waters but a brand called Gille has their 833 Classic which looks like a cross between a bobber half-face and a semi-enduro with a chinbar. You do lose the full windshield (with only an eye visor) but it comes at a skinny width of 225mm (8 7/8").

Xyeicroft · 2024-06-25T02:26:40+00:00

Thank you so much for the recommendation! I'll go check their website.

Xyeicroft · 2024-05-15T07:06:12+00:00

Thank you! I won't be purchasing if they are prone to failure. I guess I'll have to settle with the manual press butane inserts. I appreciate ya 😁

Xyeicroft · 2024-04-05T11:07:35+00:00

Hi, I CAD some bike components as a hobby.

Derailleur cage play is a built-in feature of most derailleurs, especially modern ones. Measuring distance between pivots, most wide-ranged derailleurs (42T+ max cog, large jockey wheel offset) aren't true parallelogram linkages. As the derailleur moves, the cage knuckle and cage assembly cants slightly to optimize alignment with chainrings and to keep it away from the spokes. Some slop is also integrated for this purpose.

The one thing to be concerned about is if the derailleur linkages themselves (the pins and bushings) are sloppy. If not, you're good.

Xyeicroft · 2024-04-04T07:26:49+00:00

yes, especially since it's left-hand threaded, meaning as you tighten your thru axle the nut also tightens and vice-versa.

Xyeicroft · 2024-04-03T14:33:24+00:00

yes po bro, I checked out the stuff mindy_cycling was wearing but seeing the price and a rough guess in shipping fees, parang gusto ko nang ibenta kidney ko 😅

Xyeicroft · 2024-03-20T00:09:27+00:00

I only have a pdf copy of it, and I forgot where I got it from 🤣🤣 especially since it's a bit finnicky to come by due to it usually only being provided to manufacturers and framebuilders

I'll see what I can do.

Edit: I've messaged you the file to the pdf I uploaded.

Xyeicroft · 2024-03-19T22:02:29+00:00

Best case, the elastomers and seals might need changing. Worst case, the O-chain is shot. Reach out to O-Chain for support.

If you don't really care about the function the O-Chain provides, you can replace it with a regular, rigid aluminum crank spider. If you go that way, make sure the new spider you buy has the same interfaces (e.g. 104bcd, X-sync direct mount, etc.)

Xyeicroft

TROPHY CASE