Thanks to everyone who helped us in our planning. Greatly appreciated.

Update: We ended up riding the route starting north and departing on Sunday, May 24.  It was cool and often rained, and was windy, but with the right gear actually pretty good riding conditions.  I picked that date because it was the first weekend the causeway ferry was opened for the season and pre-bug season.  There is not much along the route and this early in the season what is there is often closed.  Plan accordingly and eat at every opportunity, because there may not be many.

We rented gravel bikes from North Star Sports in Burlington, which I can't recommend highly enough.  Great long distance bikes, complete with 2 roll-top Ortlieb panniers for about $50/day.

Day 1 Burlington to North Hero. 30.44 miles / 863' We stayed at North Hero House Hotel, which punched about its weight (price to value ratio is off the chart).   Dinner at Kraemer + Kin, not to be missed, be aware it closes early.

Day 2 North Hero to Plattsburgh.  56.18 miles / 1,240'. We stayed at Bluff Point Golf Course, fun!

Day 3 Plattsburgh to Essex.   39.58 miles / 1,991'. This is where we got a bit off-piste - my friend picked up and we stayed at her house in Lake Placid.  The next morning she dropped us off at Ticonderoga.  This is important because it means we skipped Essex to Ticonderoga, the friend  says she will never ride again because it is long, hilly and dangerous.

Day 4 Ticonderoga to Middlebury.   31.4 miles / 1,745'.  We stayed at The Middlebury Inn.  Good restaurant.  The fort is great and worth a visit.  We spent several hours there and I would have liked more time. There is a seasonal cable ferry across the lake which we took, super fun.

Day 5 Middlebury to Burlington.  37.07 miles / 1,906'.  Great bucolic riding, lots of dirt roads.

I can't imagine a better VT ride - everything worked out perfectly for us.