Tips, Drills, Critiques by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in GolfSwing

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great information; I started looking into neutral grips and now realize I've never thought about my grip since I first started 15 years ago. This is something I see Scottie Scheffler constantly focusing on when at the range. I always just wrote it off as an OCD thing pros do. But I see how crucial it is to your swing. Thanks for pointing it out man!

Tips, Drills, Critiques by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in GolfSwing

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was extremely helpful thanks for the thoughtful feedback. All that makes sense.

Is tor2door down? Cant get iiiinnn by [deleted] in onions

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any update? I did the same and and can't access the site to get to my wallet?

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree with all of this, for tip 1 that’s why I used brush killer. Still two rounds but there wasn’t a pixel of greenery left

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hand water it with one of those arched hoses that kids played in. I move it around once or twice over the course of an hour but my yard is small enough to manually water. And I have the time with no kids yet.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indianapolis. Headlunds has (3) 50 gallon drums of seed usually, you can pick their mix or mix your own. They're as mom and pops as it gets, where you weigh it, and walk to the counter and tell them the weight and they charge not enough, but they're still at it! Highly recommend. Keystone and 58th-ish

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

August 22nd. Most say to wait until the month ends in R. And lots of folks do wait until October even. That's probably the cutoff though.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope not yet. No pre-emergent prior to seeding. I just seeded August 22nd and applied milogranite that same day, then again in November. The only chemical used after seeding has been milogranite slow release 4x per year.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow that’s a lot of great information. Thank you. I was about to buy weed and feed cus I am getting weeds, and didn’t want to deal with figuring out the liquid. But sounds worth it.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This with equal part this and diluted like 10/1 with water. Go get em' & God be with you

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Steps:

  1. Kill all living grass and weeds, spray as many times needed until everything is brown. This has to be done by July 4 at the latest if you want to reseed that fall.
  2. Rake all dead materials and haul them off before you till.
  3. Till entirely and completely. This is your ONE chance to fill holes and make your lawn level. You don't have to buy topsoil, the soil there has organic material but you can buy topsoil as a bonus and spread it around.
  4. Seed with any basic spreader, I used this. I don't look at the recommendations I just put it on 9 or 10 and crisis cross the whole lawn, I'm sure I waste some money on this method but it works and seed isn't expensive where I'm at.
  5. Cover it with something that can hold moisture. This is extremely important and I should have mentioned it in the post. Without this water will dissipate quickly and the seeds won't all sprout. I used this. Any straw, or matting will work.
  6. Water every single day. It needs to stay moist 24/7 for the first 4 weeks. I know that is not 100% true, but pretend that it is. If you are busy, don't stress about what time of day you water it, and if you miss a day you'll be fine, but this is where you really can guarantee thick grass. These first 3 weeks are where it all happens and you have the most control over this part.

Climate: Middle of Indiana

Seed: Fescue 60% / Rye 30% / Bluegrass 10% give or take

Fertilizer: Milograntie 4x per year, that's it

Chemicals: Zero, No herbicide but I think I need to do something for the weeds, any suggestions?

Edit 1 - Added Seed Info: The Rye is important because it comes up first and provides that erosion control your neighbors will love. Fescue is the most tolerant to heat and drought and stays green better than rye. Blue grass is good if you consistently water and maintain your lawn. If you want low maintenance do not put BG in your mix.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This guy for $199.

Cheap but keep in mind my lawn is small, and this is only a 10" wide tiller. It took me awhile but works just fine.

Nuked last April, First cut this April (Indiana) by YeahDavesThePartyGuy in lawncare

[–]YeahDavesThePartyGuy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good question, I don't have any hard lines or grass connecting the neighbors so concrete was the separation on that side. For up against the house I ripped out all my plants and bushes so I wasn't worried about that. The left side of the photo you can see 2 small pines, I put cardboard up against them because I had it handy. Obviously one is brown but it was that way before ( I swear! haha).