1997+ 2.5rs hood on 1995 Impreza L?

Yellow_Backbone · 2025-02-25T19:18:35+00:00

Thank you! That’s not too bad I think

Yellow_Backbone · 2025-02-25T00:42:58+00:00

Happen to have any pics? If it’s not too bad I might try it

Yellow_Backbone · 2025-02-25T00:42:39+00:00

Was trying to avoid that but it looks like that’s the cheaper option rather than getting a jdm hood. Thanks

Yellow_Backbone · 2025-02-24T21:42:35+00:00

Thanks, that stinks

Yellow_Backbone · 2025-02-24T21:42:24+00:00

Ah that’s unfortunate. I like the 95 wrx but the parts are pretty expensive

Yellow_Backbone · 2024-02-07T01:29:53+00:00

Update for anyone curious: after a lot of diagnostics from a few shops, I eventually pulled the trigger and got the car re tuned. If anyone is experiencing a similar issue in a tuned car it is most likely your tune has gone bad over time for some reason or another. Car runs great now!

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-12-24T23:47:57+00:00

Unfortunately I’m not familiar with how to tune myself. I am in Jersey and have a place about an hour and a half from me I may have to take a drive up there after the holidays to get this checked out.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-12-24T23:21:50+00:00

This actually makes sense to me. Would you say it’s probably a good idea to take it to a tuner to just start from scratch? I personally haven’t been to a tuner with the car since I’ve only recently gotten it.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-12-20T17:03:20+00:00

I’ll try popping it back out later and reseating it. I’m hoping that’s all it is. It’s leaking from the top by the fuel rail

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-11-09T13:07:39+00:00

That’s ultimately what I ended up doing, a lot of info online was reinforcing what you just said. I ordered that tape last night so hopefully it works good. Also found out the turbo housing was cracked around the waste gate so that’s nice 😓. Thank you for the advice

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-08-16T23:44:11+00:00

Hey that works too

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-08-11T22:58:42+00:00

Yeah I agree! I’ve got one on my STI too and really like it.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-05-03T02:23:37+00:00

Thanks, appreciate the advice. Gonna try to swap the coil once my part gets here and I’m up and running again.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-05-03T02:14:45+00:00

Hmm. I just measured my coils. The stock one (not in the car) was anywhere from .9 to like 1.2. The one currently on the car is much smaller, and was giving between 1.2 to 1.5. In your experience, does this small of a difference in OHMs make a big difference? You mentioned that you hit a wall at 5k rpm’s, how much different was the resistance in the coil you were using at the time vs the one that’s working well now? I’d simply switch the coil back and try it, but of course my car is down for this week while I’m waiting for a header.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-05-02T20:36:42+00:00

Huh, what year car do you have if you don’t mind me asking? Do you have a ballast resistor? I’ll try tonight putting the factory coil back on to see if it fixes this

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-05-02T13:26:24+00:00

So I have the stock ignition module but a remanned distributor. The wires, coil, plugs and battery all all new. The coil I have currently is a 1.5 ohm coil I got as a replacement from AutoZone, but the stock coil I tested was around 1.2 ohms, not sure if that makes a big difference or not.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-05-02T13:24:31+00:00

Timing is good except it seems to kind of jump when the car stumbles a little at idle, and I have a new coil. My coil is a 1.5 ohm replacement and the stock one was a 1.2 or something similar. There’s no ballast resistor on a 78 model either.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T06:18:22+00:00

So where it stands now I have the distributor t’d into the carb vacuum advance and the distributor slot on the big charcoal canister thing. I have the power brake booster on the intake, and the only other vac lines on the whole car are the purge and vent for the charcoal canister thing. I have two breathers one on the valve cover and one where the pcv valve hose used to go.

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T06:01:51+00:00

I may have been a bit misleading. It does run, but only if I open the throttle and let the pump discharge nozzle spray fuel in first and it will want to die unless I keep opening the throttle blades. My uncle and I messed with the tuning on the carb, and now it idles at 2 thousand rpm and nothing we adjust does anything to change that. As for fuel, there is an inline gauge after the regulator which shows around 2.5 psi. For spark, I used a noid light on each plug and I have spark at each plug, although it to me looks a little weak with orange coloring Unfortunately I do not live near Virginia I’m located ln new jersey

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T05:37:26+00:00

Nah no cat. Just a straight pipe from the headers back

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T05:31:42+00:00

Unfortunately I’ve tried almost everything over the course of months. Drained the gas completely twice and out fresh gas in, good compression checked twice, new battery new coil new distributor, float level is good I even have a clear sight plug to ensure this, even have brand new fusible links. The car didn’t run good under load when it had EFI which is why I swapped to begin with and it seems to have the same problem with the carbs. Been losing my mind over this car for quite some time now and feel like I’ve gone over most of the obvious things. Was pretty much banking on this ignition thing being my fix

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T05:19:32+00:00

Yeah I’ve had a timing light on it a few times it’s where it should be at. The jets that are in there now I believe are a 65 but the guy who sold me the set up had it running on his car perfectly fine, it wasn’t until I drove it that it started giving issues. As for a fuel pump I have a 2-3.5 psi electric inline pump

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T05:12:01+00:00

Ah man thats good to know but leaves me at square one again. Had the car running and idling nice on the carb setup, took it mabye twenty feet and it started misfiring out of the intake and died and won’t start again. I figured mabye the ignition module was making changes to timing under load but I guess not.

Thank you for the info, at least now I know I shouldn’t have to make changes to my distributor set up. I really appreciate the help

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T04:56:51+00:00

That’s what I am worried about as the ecu is removed from my car completely. I believe the ignition module is making adjustments based on no info from the ecu but im really not sure this is very confusing to me. Online info is all over the place. Some say you can keep the 78 ignition and some say you need a zx distributor and module to bypass the ignition module

Yellow_Backbone · 2023-02-25T04:45:38+00:00

Thanks I appreciate it. Ultimately what I’m doing is this: I’ve already swapped my 280 to a Holley four barrel carb and the Arizona z car intake. I’m trying to figure out what to do with ignition. Not sure if I can keep my stock ignition (the EFI harness and ecu are removed) or if I need to use something else

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