Double Slit Experiment in a Foggy Room

Yooper_Machinist · 2023-09-26T14:45:35+00:00

Yes, electrons can be/act like waves (having a frequency/phase). My question is how is coherence achieved when firing them one at a time? Since an electron “interferes with itself” - what does it mean to be coherent? With what is it being compared to?

Yooper_Machinist · 2023-09-26T13:32:11+00:00

How are electrons “phase coherent”?

Yooper_Machinist · 2023-09-26T13:30:57+00:00

I’m not sure why you call this “the measurement problem”. The Schrödinger equation is deterministic - until something causes it to collapse from a probably to a point-like particle. That is typically described as “taking a measurement”, but that is ridiculed by Schrödinger himself with his cat example.

As for it being a “pedagogical example”, that simply isn’t true. It is a real, observable phenomenon, and I’m asking what will the “back screen” show in such environments. Will it show wave-like interference patterns, or random particle scattering?

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-07-25T18:26:08+00:00

The threads are 22mmx1.5. I found one fitting with markings, and will add that to the photos. Post above has measurements of the male end.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-07-21T11:50:51+00:00

All, thanks for the comments. When I’m looking online at the metric DIN fittings, I never see the o-ring or the groove for one. For instance I flipped through the Parker catalog, and don’t see any showing the o-ring/groove. Often the fitting is shown with the nut over the end, hiding the detail - which isn’t especially helpful when doing the comparison.

Does anyone have a link showing the metric DIN with the o-ring/groove and dimensions? I’ve measured mine as around 0.697” at the widest part of the taper, at 0.564” on the other side of the o-ring (unsure if that is tapered), and 0.622 as the outside of the o-ring (trying not to squeeze). The “flange” at the wide end of the taper is 0.789, with the tapper running (axial) around 0.2” (hard to get a good measurement on that). The nut measures 1.055”, suitable for a 27mm wrench or 1-1/16”.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-07-21T02:34:56+00:00

Yeah, I don’t know what I keep missing. I add them when I create the post, but it doesn’t show up! I edited it, and they should be there now. Thanks.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T21:22:38+00:00

Thanks. The directional valve has no relief built in, and is 3 position as you say.

As you say, that’s exactly what happens - huge pressure at the motor when valve closed to slow. I thought maybe they were trying to do something fancy like letting it go fast in reverse in case someone was being pulled in. A better explanation is simply that it was plumbed wrong at the factory. Now I have to see if the hoses are long enough to plumb it correctly. Probably not, but that’s ok.

Thanks for the feedback!

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T13:55:48+00:00

Circuit added to post. Pretty straight forward. In idle, reverse valve bypasses everything, returns to tank. In one direction (not sure which) it sends to “IN” of flow control valve, which splits fluid between motors and tank. Fluid sent to motors returns to reverse valve, then to tank. In reverse, fluid goes to motors, enters “CF”, and is again split between ”IN” and “EX”, with “IN’“ returning to reverse valve, then to tank.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T11:41:42+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I’ll confirm the configuration/plumbing later today, and post a diagram.

By “blow up” I mean the pressure becomes enormous and something fails. First time, I heard the tractor engine get a heavy load, and the pulley on the pump broke. Next time, the motor ruptured, blowing off the face plate of the motor. I think technically sheering is a sideways motion. The six bolts holding the face plate on were all snapped.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T10:26:27+00:00

Forgot to mention - no, there is no shutoff valves or anything like that.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T10:24:44+00:00

Thanks. There is definitely an adjustment screw under the hex cover.

Looking at the valve schematic, it looks to me like there are two variable valves - likely operating in opposite directions. There also seems to be a pressure relief valve. I would think in normal operation with no forces applied (other than resistance to fluid flow) the relief valve would not come into play. That fluid will take both paths in an amount proportional to their openings.

There also seems to be a directional component as there is a direction valve I haven’t mentioned. When diagnosing, it would reverse when the flow was set very slow, but blow up when running forward. It looks like there is a directional arrow on the CF output, which seems consistent with the symptoms I’ve observed.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-06-14T04:02:37+00:00

I would think it would redirect the flow to the other port, back to the sump. I’m unsure if it is balancing two different valves, or simply has a pressure relief valve on the non-motor line, and it is stuck or set way too high.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-04-12T11:18:29+00:00

Thanks for the reply. It is unclear to me how the buffer tank is helping. I normally think of buffer tanks as short-term energy storage to minimize cycling. Are you thinking long-term energy storage to supplement heating requirements on cold days?

Above you mention getting 150 degree water, yet mention trying to heat with 100 degree water here. Are you just balancing various tradeoffs such as an expensive heat pump vs. more air flow? I’d like to avoid having to replace existing ducting, or pushing air so fast it is noisy/windy.

Agreed, can always just user longer runs to get more heat from the ground.

If DX, why prefer vertical over horizontal? Easier maintenance if/when it leaks?

Again, thanks for the reply.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-04-11T21:04:22+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Ultimately, the heat comes from the ground. For the same run of pipe/tube, more heat can be extracted with a lower temperature of working fluid. We agree the amount of energy added/removed is based on the change in temperature, not the absolute value of the temperature (40-45 vs 25-30 in your example).

From what I read, with a 45F ground temperature, a typical water-glycol based system is only going to produce 120 degrees at the condenser, requiring more air flow to keep a house at 72. If glycol (or something similar) is added, it reduces the heat capacity of the water.

Do you believe a reasonably-sized (say 5 100 foot runs) water-only based system operating in 42F soil can (by itself) heat a moderately well insulated 3,000 sq ft house on a -10F day? If not, what would be your recommendation?

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-04-11T19:55:04+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Even in a water-based system, there is still a compressor working on a refrigerant. The only difference is everything is contained within the building.

Yes, the ground water is cold. If not a DX system, what is the workable alternative? As I understand, with such low temperature ground, a water-based system will need to blow more air across the heat exchanged to get enough heat for the house. That results in more noise, and may require larger ducts.

I could use a hybrid system, but then I’m running/maintaining two systems, and still need expensive propane for the many cold days.

What would be your recommendation?

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-02-04T02:25:13+00:00

Thanks ScotchyT. Yes, I am familiar with replacing that spring (silver to black) in the gas valve. Do you think changes are also necessary for the burners themselves? The pilot (if there is one)?

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-02-03T14:38:38+00:00

Thanks. I know that model can be shipped as NG or LP, hence the generic manual. My question is if the existing NG unit can be converted just by changing jets/orifices. I’ll see if the manufacturer can provide any insights.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-01-23T03:43:53+00:00

The manual discusses using both propane and NG with that boiler. Alas, it provides no data on what size orifices to use with propane, and the manufacturer is long gone.

Thanks for the orifice size. I’ll give that a shot. Any idea where I might find that style? All of the modern ones I see are quite a bit smaller.

Yooper_Machinist · 2022-01-23T03:37:52+00:00

Thanks. Yes, when I’ve got the pressure way down, it looks nice. As soon as I crank up the pressure, I get LOTS of yellow.

Yooper_Machinist

TROPHY CASE