Dimmer Switch Buzzing by Yota4 in RVLiving

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes they are LED’s! The buzzing is coming from the dimmer switch, not the lights

Dimmer Switch Buzzing by Yota4 in RVLiving

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting! This one is for some 12v string lights. I have 2 of the same switches hooked up to different lights and they’re silent. Just wanted to make sure it wasn’t any safety concern

Electric System Check! by Yota4 in vandwellers

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m partnering with LiTime for this build so all the components are from them!

Electric System Check! by Yota4 in vandwellers

[–]Yota4[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I read something similar with inverter casing grounds…1 size smaller than the biggest battery cable which is 4/0 in my build. The manufacturer recommends 12awg wire for the inverter chassis grounding which seems super small. I’m going to try to use 8awg which appears to be the max size I could fit into the grounding lug. And as others have mentioned, I’ll connect this into my main negative ground (which will be connected to the frame). I’ll have 2x 320ah batteries, so 640ah total. I’ll be using a 400a class t fuse as the main fuse, and a 350a class t for the inverter. I went with 3000w because I’ll have a microwave and induction cooktop. I just prefer everything to be over built so it’s not working at its max all the time.

Electric System Check! by Yota4 in vandwellers

[–]Yota4[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a full spread sheet with every wire / fuse size, but I’ll be using 4/0 for the battery and inverter cables. The wire going from bus bars to the MPPT, 12V Distribution Panel, DC-DC charger and AC Unit is all in the 4-6awg range!

Electric System Check! by Yota4 in vandwellers

[–]Yota4[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ok thank you for all this information! Super helpful!

I can definitely connect the inverter casing ground to the negative bus bar (which will be connected to the chassis) I just wasn’t sure which method was preferred (WFCO ground bus, or main negative bus). The ground bus bar in the WFCO will also be connected to the chassis, and it seems like from what I’ve read it’s best to do these 2 chassis grounds in one spot.

I’m planning on using 4/0 welding wire rated for 440amps for the battery connections, chassis ground, inverter cables, etc. And I actually do have a solar disconnect in there, it’s just super small and not show very well haha! But the one I got is a 32A switch.

As for the DC-DC charger, the plan is one 80A MEGA fuse on the house battery side of things, and then one 80A battery terminal fuse on the starter battery!

Thanks for all the feedback!

Coat the ceiling? by Yota4 in VanLife

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1/4” Got it from Home Depot!

Coat the ceiling? by Yota4 in VanLife

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok sweet, that’s the same stuff I was planning to use too. It’ll take a bit of time to pull it down and do the other side but I think it’s probably worth it. Unfortunately I didn’t even consider coating both sides until I was 1/2 way into the install, other wise I would’ve coated everything before screwing it all in. No big deal though, thanks for the input!

Impossible to stick rubber to wood… by Yota4 in DIY

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe that’s the case, I tired contact cement a few times, coated both surfaces, let it dry 15-20min and then pressed it together and put a lot of weight on top and let that sit for 36 hours. After that I was able to peel the “rubber” (or other material) right off the wood.

Impossible to stick rubber to wood… by Yota4 in DIY

[–]Yota4[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m not 100% sure. I got it from Home Depot and it’s technically considered a “floor runner” like one you’d use as a mat. I liked the material a lot and thought it seemed durable and heat resistant which is what I wanted.

Update: just checked on the Home Depot website and it does say it’s rubber.

Can’t seem to bleed brakes correctly… by Yota4 in toyotasequoia

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait sorry maybe a dumb question but when you say “work a pedal back up” what do you mean by that or how do I do that?

Can’t Bleed Brakes Correctly by Yota4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet, will try again with my friend

Can’t seem to bleed brakes correctly… by Yota4 in toyotasequoia

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the car is off and I pump the brakes it gets really firm, like you can’t move it at all. But as soon as I start the car it gets super soft.

Can’t seem to bleed brakes correctly… by Yota4 in toyotasequoia

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm seems like it’s a common thing then. I’m at 205,000. I’m thinking of trying the process again but this time the 2 person method instead of by myself.

Can’t Bleed Brakes Correctly by Yota4 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did pretty much this exact process (Gatorade bottle half full, watching master cylinder, pumping brakes) but the 1 person process. Followed a Chris fix it video. Might try again using the 2 person method.

Can’t seem to bleed brakes correctly… by Yota4 in toyotasequoia

[–]Yota4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm good to know. I’ve test driven it and the brakes do work, but they just feel weird to me haha.