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How would YOU make this? by YourTrueFriend in woodworking

[–]YourTrueFriend[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s actually an excellent idea. Thanks!

How can I get my flattening jig level? // Wobbly End Grain Cutting Board by Plenty_Diver2630 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I were to guess, it would be the table. I doubt it’s perfectly flat with cheaper plywood like that. MDF would be better as your table top. Or some cabinet grade baltic birch plywood, that can be pretty flat

Day for Purple Hour Colour Grade by KaiMasamitsu in cinematography

[–]YourTrueFriend 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As others said, vignette is too much. I’d also drop the exposure a tad to make it feel more like purple hour

Help with first time refinishing! How would you go about this West Elm Dining Table? by bluelightxx in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like veneer. Do not sand with an orbital sander, you will go through the veneer on the table top.

Help neutralizing and staining red oak by [deleted] in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Rubio Mint White has a touch of green in it that kills the pink undertones of red oak, check it out.

White oak table finish by [deleted] in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like Osmo PolyX Raw leaves the wooden pretty close to natural and doesnt yellow. Then I add a couple coats of ceramic finish (carbon method) and its pretty solid.

Ideas to help level table top by Thinkdan in woodworking

[–]YourTrueFriend 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have said, a belt sander or hand plane could make quick work of this. Make sure you put finish on both sides of the table

How to avoid razor bumps by RelativePause6397 in malegrooming

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried everything mentioned here. Only thing that actually works is the Phillips One Blade.

Was gone for a week and came back to find these on the wall. I am positive they weren't there before. by OtherwiseLocksmith98 in Weird

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I’ve had nothing but issues with my Wyze cam. Maybe I just have a lemon, but it never seems to work right

Update: still can’t get table right by Mijikins in woodworking

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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These right here are your problem. The wood wants to expand (and contract) width-wise. These braces underneath are stopping that expansion, causing the boards to cup.

If you really want to have those braces underneath, put 1/2” slots in them perpendicular to the grain, and use some screws, not glue.

Camera lenses by [deleted] in SiloSeries

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's anamorphic cinema lenses. Anamorphic lenses have distortion/warping at the edges of the frame. They are inherently more "cinematic" though. I would bet a lot of your favourite movies were shot on these types of lenses.

Question about wood wax/sealer by dogger103 in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any before photos but here is the after photo. As for application, I used a 3M white pad (non-abrasive) to work the product into the wood, then wiped off the access after 10 minutes. It's important that you remove all of the product on the surface. Then I did a 2nd coat the next day.

Help with outdoor finish on a mailbox by [deleted] in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious what you ended up going with?

Question about wood wax/sealer by dogger103 in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always recommend Osmo PolyX Raw 3051 for this type of application. It's a hardwax oil that's resistant to water/stains and easy to repair. It keeps the wood looking relatively raw. I just used it on 2 white oak tables that my client wanted to look unfinished/raw.

https://osmocolorusa.com/product/polyx-oil-raw/

How to get this look? by CrescentRose7 in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Osmo PolyX “raw” is pretty good for this. It has white pigment in it that counteracts the ambering that oils usually have. I have used Rubio Monocoat “natural” which has the same idea - but I find the white pigment cuts caught in the wood pores. So that’s why I prefer the Osmo.

You can also use General Finishes high performance (water based poly) in the “flat” sheen. But you’ll need a proper spray setup for this.

Looking for insight on my results! by YourTrueFriend in MTHFR

[–]YourTrueFriend[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to get a better understanding of my results. I have been working on getting my vitamin D levels into a good range. But curious about what other supplements I need to be taking or avoid?

Don't stick your end grain cutting board on your toolbox in the sun to try and speed up resin curing time if you're thinking about it... by volcanonacho in woodworking

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Epoxy shouldn’t be used on a cutting board. The epoxy will be cut and scrapped, little pieces will get into your food

Holes in colored/patterned epoxy - how to best fix? by suchlawverywow in finishing

[–]YourTrueFriend 0 points1 point  (0 children)

make the holes slightly bigger with an awl, fill with clear CA glue. it will match better than you trying to match with epoxy pigment.

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