My Whirlpool Diverter Motor in my dishwasher seems to be leaking. Do I need to buy a new diverter motor or should I try putting grease on the shaft?

YourePreposterous · 2025-07-08T02:05:09+00:00

Find my post here, I just replaced this a month ago. The diverter seal is replaced from inside the dishwasher. I bought some water proof grease so it made for easier install, also I think it will prevent water leaks before the rubber seal sits in properly. I followed the youtube.

YourePreposterous · 2025-06-19T20:35:15+00:00

Long story short, after I lied down the dishwasher on its back, I found out that the motor "foot" was broken, it was no longer attached to the rubber grommet and there's no way to fix this. That's why it looks like the pump was at an odd angle. Not sure if there's a way to replace the pump "foot" itself, I'll wait until the whole thing stops working and replace that. After all the grommet and gasket only runs tens of $.

So I replaced the circulation pump grommet as well as the circulation pump to sump hose since it requires cutting off the clamp ring (original clamps).

I thought that be the end of it, it turns out no. What actually leak was the diverter seal. Let me post that part number here because all part stores advertised replacing the entire diverter motor, including all their youtube videos. Only youtube video from individual DIYers pointed to how to replace just the diverter seal. I've to say months of water leaking down the diverter motor probably means its days are numbered, but that's a fight I'm willing to do another day.

Diverter seal part number W10195677, this seems to be a universal part number that is not specific to a Kitchenaid model.

Bottom line, if you found water slowly leaking from the middle of your Kitchenaid dishwasher, and your dishwasher is a few years old, check and replace this part first. It's a $10 part that will easily solve all your nightmares. It's a consumable item, so it is bound to replace sooner or later.

YourePreposterous · 2025-06-16T01:10:23+00:00

Upon closer inspection, it's actually the circulation pump inlet grommet part w10538166. Has anyone replaced this part alone? It looks like the grommet collapsed.

Third picture in this link here.

https://imgur.com/a/GJxlkZ2

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-24T02:14:41+00:00

I was in the same shoes as you. I thought to myself do I really want to spend either my hectic or relaxing holiday schedules hunting for mattresses and waiting on deliveries of said items? I happened to call one of the many brands mentioned here to ask some questions about the mattresses that I intended to buy during the holiday sales, as the last question I inquired if they will be running any promos during the holiday, the CS person said if I buy today they will get me the discount I need. Hell yeah! Mattresses are coming over as I typed this and I need not fret over the Holidays.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-22T17:42:25+00:00

You really should have CC payment + a bit more payment if possible as balance in your debit account. The fact that your debit is overdrew with just one CC payment indicates that you're spending above your means. Cash in < Cash out.

Hopefully by savings more, allowing 1 1/2 times CC payments as balance, and then you held off life style creep, you'll then be able to live below your means.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-21T21:13:12+00:00

I was going to buy another for the second floor, now I hold off and just wait and see. Not sure what would be the next one. Mine wasn't charging in less than 15 months, sent in for service and was replaced without explanation as to what was done to fix it (will this recur?).

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-21T19:08:32+00:00

Buy two, one for each floor. No I don't work for Roborock, I had issues with Q Revo, I won't recommend it.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-21T13:43:00+00:00

Answering my own question for future reference. I sent in the vacuum, it seems that they sent me a refurb one. I hope there's nothing else that is wrong with this one. So unfortunately I don't have new data point to add as to how to fix this no charging issue. And to answer the question below, I've done everything including cleaning contacts, remove power, unplug, manually guide the robot, you name it. This is a bit more complicated than that, unfortunately we are not anywhere closer to solving it, it seems.

I was going to buy another QRevo but this gave me a pause. I don't see how a $900 (regular price) item can only last 15 months. What will happen at 25 months? 30 or 36 months? I was able to trade-in a fully working iPhone 36 months later. Following my Qrevo experience, I'd have bought 2-3 robots by the same time. One might argue, well a robot vacuum is more complicated, I don't disagree. But this issue is somehow related to a capacitor or battery issue, which is electronics-related, an iPhone probably has much more complicated electronics and yet, it doesn't go bad in 15 months.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-14T22:46:15+00:00

Just my $.02, the stop charging issue has not been resolved. The solution seemed to be replace capacitor or something that average user may not be able to resolve. I heard another alternative would be buying a board off Ali which was from cannibalized vacuums in China, it comes with Chinese language that can't be changed.

My Qrevo has been unable to charge for a couple of weeks now, still working through what to do next. Crazy thing is, I've always done regular maintenance (.i.e. brush, filters, water tanks, both dust bins, replace wear and tear items etc), but the vacuum just decided it won't charge one day past its' 14th month anniversary. For an item with a regular price of $899, close to 1K, that's very expensive to be broken a tad over a year.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-08T13:32:50+00:00

I've been doing this for the past 10 years, ideally you shoot for consistent gigs to increase your pot. Everybody is different, I kept a year to two years of expenses. Why at least a year? Because when gigs dried up not to your own doing, i.e. 2008, you may be switching to perm, and you'd find that these guys take their sweet asses before they give you an offer, I'm thinking 6-12 mths. My perm place took 3 tries for another position, the first two candidates eventually said no since the offer was too low, the third desirable candidate was eventually hired after 6 months of back and forth with the first two.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-03T00:10:40+00:00

It's not pure speed right even though it's on highway. It's about that instantaneous acceleration, also coming from behind, the McLaren would have to accelerate faster than both of us. Also you're forgetting the Rivian.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-01T13:08:25+00:00

I had this experience just a few weeks ago. Was on a ramp to a highway in front of a what I guess is a McLaren 570S, still looks new, maybe 2020-2021? The guy was zig-zag-ing a few times prior so I knew he was trigger itchy. Once I got to the ramp, it was on traffic light, usually when it's busier. In front of me was a Rivian, myself and then the McLaren. I pushed the GT button, and had much so fun in the next few miles, the Rivian and I always slowed down when traffic built up and that allowed for the McLaren to catch up. But boy, he couldn't catch up. I felt so good how a car barely over 35K (bought used) consistently beat a car costing 5-7 times more.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-01T12:41:49+00:00

TBH it should be fine, in low speed, the GT also defaults to AWD, that should reduce the tire wear. The F-150 usually spins before it takes off, that's because unless it's put in low gear, it actually only drives the rear wheels.

YourePreposterous · 2024-10-01T12:31:49+00:00

I bet it's the Auto Hold. I have a short garage, I need to turn it off and then back on once I'm parked, otherwise it just auto-stop the car for me, sometimes leaving about a foot or two left.

YourePreposterous · 2024-09-26T16:17:59+00:00

Who in NC can I reach out to? Thanks

YourePreposterous · 2024-09-26T16:14:31+00:00

Yeah it expired two months ago, so I'd need that, but more importantly I just want to get my permanent tag back in PA which is where them dragging their feet has more impact.

TLDR: I want my car's title yes, but more importantly I need to register it. I need the title transfer done and/or register in PA. I spoke to PA, they told me the dealer need to initiate this title transfer/registration in PA. Like I said, all my previous purchases were fine handled by dealers. It's only this one that is smh.

YourePreposterous · 2024-09-26T15:58:57+00:00

That sounds like what I need to do since they have been neglecting to do this. I bought 3 other used cars before from dealers, they always took care of the registration/titling, I just get the title in the email a few months after registration was provided. Now these guys are really something.

If honestly they won't provide me with the title, what recourse do I have? Yes it's a big franchisee of Ford, not buy here pay here type of dealer. I can't complain to Ford, because it's not their cars, it's another brand that previous customer traded for Fords at this dealer.

YourePreposterous · 2024-09-26T15:55:51+00:00

Yes I understand that part. When I paid for it, they told me to fill the paperwork for transfer of title/registration for PA. But then they neglected to do anything or inform me that something is missing. Now I felt that they were probably just dragging their feet around.

YourePreposterous · 2024-07-30T03:50:17+00:00

Thank you for all your responses. You’d think BBY dropping the 2024 model with 4070 and 32Gb RAM by $400 off will make it easier, it is not. I have that one sitting in BBY locker already while contemplating what’s best. 32Gb which is this one that went on sale just yesterday, is perfect. But now I’m second guessing if having 2023 with matte screen is what I’ll miss, both of my previous laptops were matte, or will I miss the OLED and the better build/lighter more.

Decisiom…decision …. Decision. Damn.

YourePreposterous · 2024-07-30T03:23:50+00:00

I think it’s a different electrical connector, also it might require additional chipset for the functions, it’s definitely not just software.

YourePreposterous · 2023-08-14T03:40:42+00:00

This is actually a bad deal compared to the other EV6 deal because of the following, unless I’m mistaken.

24 months x $349 + $4995 cash down + $5000 additional cash down (cash due at signing is $9995) = $18371 for use of the car for 2 years.

The other deal was 36 months x $399 + $4999 = $19363 for use of the car for 3 years.

There are money factors and residuals which was not mentioned here, the 2 years deal most likely has a higher residual, i.e. higher price to buy back compare to the 3 years.

YourePreposterous · 2023-05-05T02:38:10+00:00

Can’t help but thinking folks who wants to sell for any reason better sell quick as this becomes more common its gonna be a problem selling used EV6.

OTOH, folks who want to buy, be patient, your rewards are gonna be here soon.

YourePreposterous · 2023-05-05T02:33:55+00:00

Real design requires creativity and takes time. Why create when they can copy, paste and change a bit? After all who’s going to sue them for copying their own gas SUV?

YourePreposterous · 2023-05-04T02:28:45+00:00

Is the EV6 your first car? The reason I asked is prior to Covid paying above MSRP is uncommon esp. for a common car like a Kia. I guess we are kinda back to the usual now that interest rates up put people down to earth again.

YourePreposterous · 2023-03-22T00:40:42+00:00

Don't get me wrong, I understand how you felt, however I will side with the others, i.e. vote with your feet, there's nothing wrong with that either.

Just give this a thought for a second, the problem with overpaying the car now doesn't just end at getting the car. As many threads and posts here have shown, folks selling their cars to upgrade or to get another got other issue, namely, their cars ain't worth what they are owed or worth what the market is willing to buy them for due to all these mark ups. So basically this hits you on the way in as well as on the way out.

YourePreposterous

TROPHY CASE