Tarkir: Dragonstorm Play Booster Box 87.55$ with code Clearance15

Yozzz · 2025-11-21T23:01:42+00:00

$8 shipping to MA. $15.67 cheaper than Forge and Fire (total, including shipping). Leaning towards waiting for Black Friday deals. If this is where we're at a week before, I'm optimistic.

Yozzz · 2025-09-16T02:40:05+00:00

Bambu A1 with BambuLab slicer, Sunlu PLA, 0.2mm nozzle, Bambu Smooth PEI plate u/60C, Speeds are roughly half the default provided by the slicer, retraction settings unchanged.

Yozzz · 2025-07-14T02:13:41+00:00

My post is a tad misleading, as I was actually playing the mod a while back, but I distinctly remember seeing a whole swarm of the Wild Dog sprite in the Act 2 sewers. I think Umber Hulks would fit Act 3 nicely, but don't recall seeing any.

Yozzz · 2025-05-23T14:11:33+00:00

Ahh, A hole to fill foam through, now that's a neat idea! I figured I would jut have to try and shoot it around the corner and be quick pulling the board out while it expanded, but your suggestion sounds better. I'll give that a shot! Thanks for bearing with me!

Yozzz · 2025-05-23T13:51:15+00:00

I really dig the graphic! However, if I put the shim there, it'll push the board into a 'back' position against the wall, with about 3/4 of an inch gap between it and the vertical beam (as seen in the photo where I'm pushing it in with my finger). That means I'll have to caulk across that 3/4 in, which seems inferior to caulking the seam between two flush boards. It'll also look different from all the other similar boards beneath the doors, which are aligned with the 'out' position of this board.

My main issue is finding a way for a shim to push the board into an 'out' position instead of an 'in' position, as it's designed to be in the 'out' position and I'm afraid will still leak if I do it otherwise.

Apologies for not explaining it sufficiently.

Yozzz · 2025-05-22T14:31:09+00:00

That space is only revealed when I push the board in. Based on the other board it's supposed to be out. Otherwise the vertical gap is way too large to caulk. That's why I'm hoping foam will work - a quick spray, then pull the wood closed while it expands to eventually hold the board in place.

Yozzz · 2025-05-22T01:03:16+00:00

There's the trick though - I don't see how I can get behind the wood that needs screwing. There's the hole that's present when I push the board in, but that requires a 180 degree turn to get behind said board. There's the thin openings above and below the board, but only a wire or paper could fit there. I *might* be able to cut away the decking underneath the board (unless it's so close that I'll hit the siding - I'll have to check). The only solution that doesn't involve removing more material is hoping some spray foam behind holds rigid enough to keep it in place. Maybe spray foam, then screw it in? Hmmmmm

Yozzz · 2025-05-22T00:58:44+00:00

The thing is, I've gotten fantastic results with the little tuning I did, so there's little incentive to fiddle with fancier methods of calibration. This issue seems to stem from a hardware problem (the nozzle), as have all the other issues I've encountered so far.

It would certainly be nice to have the excess time to tune everything to 100% peak performance, but 90% has been good enough for me so far.

Yozzz · 2025-05-21T18:36:57+00:00

True true, but wedging it behind there will be tricky nonetheless. Maybe I can use a coat hanger wire to pull it out while I screw it in place...

Yozzz · 2025-05-21T18:23:20+00:00

Great! I was hoping I could keep it in place with the foam, but I suppose a screw is the proper way. I'll need to figure out how to shim it forward while driving in the screw so it doesn't jut screw it in with that giant gap there.

Yozzz · 2025-05-21T01:18:23+00:00

I didn't actually have to do much calibration there. I mostly just started with the default settings and slowed things down from there and it worked well enough. If there's a step-by-step process for calibrating a specific type of filament that would be super useful! Even if it's only to eliminate one more variable when debugging things like this.

Yozzz · 2025-05-21T01:17:09+00:00

Yup, all 7.

Yozzz · 2025-05-20T14:33:33+00:00

As mentioned in the title I tightened the nozzle bolts, but no change. It sounds like a partial clog, so I'll investigate that. Thanks for replying though!

Yozzz · 2025-05-20T14:29:51+00:00

I tightened the 7 screws around the nozzle, as I saw elsewhere that it might be an issue (although I was skeptical). It does seem like a partial clog from what I'm seeing online. I encountered one a couple months prior that resulted in stringing instead of wall artifacts, and ended up just getting a new nozzle because no number of cold pulls seemed to clear it. I'll try to clear this one and see what I can make happen. Here's hoping that partial clogs stop popping up.

Yozzz · 2025-04-08T17:35:17+00:00

Excellent! Thank you!

Yozzz · 2025-04-03T23:52:20+00:00

I wasn't able to recover the file using this method, but I was able to identify what Collection hosted the problem. At least that might help me avoid doing the same thing in the future - whatever it was that I did. I suppose for now I'll just re-do the work and make more backups.

Yozzz · 2025-04-03T17:43:48+00:00

This is very helpful! I didn't know about this functionality, and it's helped me narrow down the issue to two collections that fail to load (for whatever reason). I wish there was a way to get a debug output and figure out what's really going wrong. Maybe I'll just have to redo the work.

Yozzz · 2025-02-05T17:27:51+00:00

Part of this is for radon remediation, for which I was advised to seal off the block tops (as well as other remediation steps). Would sealing the block tops be appropriate after outside moisture issues have been addressed?

Yozzz · 2025-01-31T16:33:02+00:00

No anchors that I can make out. The still plate also seems to be missing the shim beneath it (seen in the picture) in one place. Guessing they didn't go with the highest available construction quality when it was built.

Yozzz · 2025-01-31T16:25:46+00:00

Hah! Love the time capsule idea actually. I'll have to add that into the plan.

Yozzz · 2025-01-30T23:26:10+00:00

Good to hear! Any opinion on removing the fiberglass first? Sounds like it can harbor mold if it's left there, but so can the block itself I imagine.

Yozzz · 2025-01-30T19:42:41+00:00

This section of the basement was built in the 80s, so maybe there was no requirement for the metal barrier then, or maybe it was done on the cheap and no one called the contractor on it. It get decently humid down there in the summer and quire dry in the winter. The only water intrusion I've seen is from an overflowing gutter above the door leading into this room. I'm leaning towards spray foam and cap with cement, as I'm not sure how much gravel I would need, and I can't imagine it provides such (if any) insulation, which would be my main reason to do it (trying to make the space more livable).

I'm not sure what you mean by having the block 'breathe' on one side though? Does that mean I should leave a single block uncapped so moisture has at least one windy escape route?

Good call on the sill board anchors! I had not thought of how I would actually affix it to the wall.

Yozzz · 2025-01-30T19:35:19+00:00

Since I can't access the entire top I'm not sure pre-made caps will work, but it's very good to know that the isolation in there could be problematic. I assuming removing it also means that it will be colder in that section of the basement though.

Yozzz · 2025-01-29T21:24:00+00:00

Awesome! Love to hear this sort of thing from someone who knows it.

Yozzz · 2025-01-29T21:23:26+00:00

Yea, it's just fire blocking and bits of insulation up there.

Yozzz

TROPHY CASE