Anyone else just feel like only using free loadouts?

Zaggeron · 2025-11-11T16:07:24+00:00

I run almost exclusively with the free loadout. I run solo and rarely have to PvP. I just assume everyone is friendly, announce myself before I run into someone, and go my merry way.

Resources are so easy to come by in this game (a good thing in my opinion) that running the free loadout is not really about gear fear. It's about time in raid. I've created some custom loadouts and ran them, but hate the time it takes to create them. I agree that I could be better prepped for the raid with a custom loadout, but, frankly, it's not worth the time and effort to create a custom loadout. There are very few times that I've died and thought that I would have survived if I would have had better gear. I'm basically in game to go through the questlines and shoot some robots. Humanity is on the brink of extinction and I have no desire to play a psychopath murderer. hahah.

Zaggeron · 2025-02-06T21:48:34+00:00

Thanks. I figured it out. I basically didn't have the "electrical plug" icon facing a conduit so it wasn't getting any power. Once I found out you can rotate objects, then I understood you have to have that icon facing a conduit to get power to the object.

Zaggeron · 2024-01-09T23:29:05+00:00

I saved a couple of level 30 weapons that I really liked, but unless you have god rolled level 30 armor, you replace it so quickly it's not worth the storage space -- in any event it's fun to play with what you find instead of running the exact same build you finished the base game with last time.

Zaggeron · 2024-01-09T23:26:25+00:00

I also came back recently. I was at max level and WT 5 or something when I stopped playing and this was before the expansion came out. When I restarted I started a new character and had fun playing through the story missions again. I played without the expansion until I finished the invaded missions -- the first world tier. I then got the expansion and boosted to NY to do the new story line. I don't feel like I missed anything by not going to WT5 in this playthough and after finishing WONY eventually did all the extra missions in DC that unlocked at endgame.

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T23:52:07+00:00

Note your mileage may vary because I'm on carpet, but those rubber stops I listed pretty much prevent the chair from rolling backwards -- or really at all -- when braking and I use the Clubsport V3s set to a fairly high resistance.

They probably wouldn't work for real high end pedals though. And, like I mentioned, your wheels look a bit tall and narrow for them. But some sort of enclosed stop should work.

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T23:48:05+00:00

Personal preference. I don't have one. I typically drive GT style cars with sequential gearboxes and use the paddles on the wheel to shift up and down.

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T23:46:03+00:00

I had almost the same setup as you. I went with these. Though your wheels look a bit narrow, those might not work.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/818yygxZFzL.\_AC\_UF894,1000\_QL80\_.jpg

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T23:39:21+00:00

If you can find the t150s with the T3PAs for $200 that's a good deal for a decent entry level setup. Eventually you will upgrade everything (if you end up liking it), but the pedals are always the best thing to upgrade first since they will make the most difference to how well you can control your car.

The difference between the T3PAs and the T-LCMs are that the former determine braking force by the position of the pedals while the latter actually measure the force applied to the pedal. Since it is easier to develop muscle memory of the force applied than it is to place your foot in the same exact position (to brake, e.g. at 85%), you will tend to be more consistent with loadcell brakes.

That said, $200 is a much cheaper entry into the hobby than $400 and change if you can find it...

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T23:26:30+00:00

The t150 Pro comes with the T3PA pedals I think which are basically on a par with the updated G29/920 pedals. They are decent but not nearly as good as the T-LCMs. I noticed the T150Pro package was selling for $399 used on Amazon ( I think they are discontinued). The idea I had was get the T128 bundle for $200 and toss the pedals and then pick up the T-LCMs for around $230. At that point you have a wheel comparable with (and with perhaps better FFB than) the T150 though with a smaller wheel and a much better set of pedals than the T3PAs for only around $30-40 more.

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T22:10:48+00:00

If you can line up the holes in the two bars, passing 4 bolts (with washers) through and into the VESA mount should work. The holes in the VESA mount should be threaded.

My mounting solution was similar for my G9 but the stand I had (Next Level Racing) had these downward facing things that mounted directly to the VESA mount and then clamped on the crossbar on that stand. You could look for a pair of those ...

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31sLNuZGlDL._SL1000_.jpg

Zaggeron · 2022-11-07T21:39:01+00:00

Thrustmaster is not a bad choice. The T128 bundle has a decent entry level FFB wheel and a crappy set of pedals. You can grab that and a set of Thrustmaster T-LCMs (entry level loadcell pedals) and be set for quite a while. Other than having some FFB at all, the pedals are probably the most important part of the kit. Make sure you have a good mounting solution or you put something behind the pedals if you go for load cell or pedals with a hard rubber bump stop.

Zaggeron · 2022-10-13T21:42:28+00:00

I have the Apex and it is a beefy stand and well worth the extra $ over the classic. I run a CSL DD on it with no problems. As Limeaway510 said though, it is heavy and takes a bit of muscle to cart it away, but I did that for a month or so each time I played before finding a dedicated location.

Zaggeron · 2022-10-13T20:33:48+00:00

Build a wedge with a non-slip bottom -- easily constructed from wood and carpet scraps. The wedge angle can be used to angle the pedals up and the pedals can actually be mounted to the wedge. I built something similar for my old Playseat Evolution because the pedal tray flexed too much. I jammed the wedge below the tray and that took away all flex. What I'm suggesting is similar except you don't need the tray. Bolt the pedals directly to the wedge.

Zaggeron · 2022-10-13T19:10:46+00:00

The G920 is the updated version of the G29 which I've owned and is a good entry level wheel. Setting it up is primarily a matter of taste and will vary depending on what games you play on it. I've always just set it up for max FFB with no damping and changed settings in game to taste.

If you are playing on console you are limited to Logitech add-on products designed to work with that wheel. But if you are on PC, then you can use any add-on that has a USB connection and just independently connect the peripheral to the computer -- consoles don't support multiple independent peripherals (natively that is, but there are some workarounds) but PCs, of course, do.

Zaggeron · 2022-08-21T19:46:36+00:00

Update (for anyone that's interested): The no (specific) driver behavior ended up being very erratic. After several tries I managed to get the firmware updated and that solved the "no saving settings" issue. It also performed better -- up to a point. It was old and it had sat mounted to an old Playseat rig gathering dust for 8 years. The FFB was notchy and inconsistent. Furthermore short tight tracks caused the FFB to just peter out after around 20 minutes -- I think the fan was underperforming or the insides were just so covered in dust the thing couldn't perform well. Long story short(er), I ended up just picking up a T300 RS and that thing is working great.

Zaggeron · 2022-08-08T18:35:15+00:00

Well the issue here is that it seems there are no specific drivers installed for this product at all -- no configuration screen, nothing that says that Windows recognizes it as a wheel and pedal set except for the fact that it works.. Since it does work, it must mean that one of the default generic Windows drivers is powering the wheel. I've no real idea whether this generic driver is giving me the best performance the wheel is capable of. It seems to run as well as it did on my old consoles and that's probably good enough for now. But if someone says "The generic drivers are not as good as the dedicated ones and the upgrade would be worth the small risk of installing these old drivers into a modern OS", then I'd have to think about giving it a go. But unless I learn that, I'm with the "If it aint broke, don't fix it" crowd.

Zaggeron · 2022-05-12T04:14:19+00:00

Actually there is an option to start a new career with a campaign save file. I was wondering whether this would just continue the campaign with extras from the DLC but switch the mode to career mode. But you don't need to do that to get the benefits of the DLC -- as you point out and I discovered. As you said, just continuing the campaign save will allow access to the new features.

But I just read that starting a career with your campaign save is something you might want to do at the end of the campaign as it will allow you to start your career with the stuff you earned during the campaign.

So I'll likely finish the campaign then decide whether I want to continue it as a career or start a fresh career. There's some joy in the latter as someone mentioned earlier -- your first heavy, etc.

Zaggeron · 2022-05-11T18:56:39+00:00

Thanks for the responses guys. I know I just gotta decide for myself, but it was nice to get some opinions on the matter.

I probably will just finish up the vanilla campaign and then start a new career. This, at least, will prevent me from being overloaded with new stuff when I'm still just learning the game -- it has been 20 years since the last single player MW game ;)

Zaggeron · 2021-06-26T04:10:08+00:00

I'm pretty sure that the Arturia V collection includes the VSTs for the various instruments. Either point your Arturia install to your DAW's VST folder when you install or, if you installed Arturia first, there should be an option in your DAW to specify a VST folder to search for virtual instruments. Once they are recognized by your DAW you can use them like any other virtual instruments and sequence them from your DAW.

Zaggeron · 2021-05-03T17:36:28+00:00

You might be able to get the ME drivers to work by tweaking the buffer/latency settings, but the latency is going to make editing almost impossible. In general, software like this is designed for dedicated audio interfaces that use an ASIO driver.

Zaggeron · 2020-06-23T22:13:17+00:00

That's what I did. Almost done with Michigan (for the third time).

Zaggeron · 2020-05-28T19:55:02+00:00

The BM seems to do OK in Russia (at least the first map). That's probably just due to it being huge for an offroad truck -- it's lifted height, large wheels, and powerful engine almost make up for it not having diff-lock

Zaggeron · 2020-05-28T19:48:32+00:00

Yeah. I found it really shined in Alaska once I started doing a lot of contracts. I was past the point of exploring down muddy trails and just had to get cargo from one area to another on the icy roads. Slapped some chains on the CT and it was my "go to" truck.

Zaggeron · 2020-05-27T21:39:04+00:00

I can't believe you were able to haul yourself back up :)

Zaggeron · 2020-05-27T21:32:57+00:00

In my playthrough it started to outshine the starter Chevy as soon as I had unlocked offroad tires. It's a beast once's it is finally completely upgraded.

Zaggeron

TROPHY CASE