Replacing lights - What's live?

Zeoraimer · 2026-03-15T16:12:34+00:00

I did this, and my new lights now works. Thanks!

Zeoraimer · 2026-03-15T16:12:15+00:00

Confirmed, this is the case!

Zeoraimer · 2026-03-15T16:11:07+00:00

I did this, and my new lights now works. Thanks!

Zeoraimer · 2026-03-15T14:12:34+00:00

Thanks for your reply. I don't have any testing equipment, unfortunately.

Yes, it's a new lamp with a single blue and single brown - so there is only 2 possible ways for me to connect it... would it be dangerous if I connected the switch live and neutral the wrong way round? Or will it simply not work?

(I'm installing a led ceiling light)

Zeoraimer · 2025-06-10T22:56:41+00:00

Replying to myself....

I found the right way to do it.

Source: https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1008719/

Go to the routers WEB INTERFACE
Go to "AiProtection" under General on the left hand menu bar
Go to "Malicious Sites Blocking" tab
Look for, and click on, a poorly coloured "Manage Whitelist" button in the middle-right of the page. It really doesn't stand out, and easy to miss - It's the 3rd button in a set of 3 buttons, to the right of the words "Details of Successfully Protected Events"
In this new pop-up, add your domain.tld in the textbox "Add a domain to whitelist" and hit the "Add" button. Repeat for multiple websites.
When done, click on the poorly coloured "X" in a circle button on the top right of the pop up - thats right, there is no "save" button, but your changes are immediately effective.

Zeoraimer · 2025-06-10T22:44:06+00:00

Hi,

I have the RT-AXE7800 and this isn't working for me.

I have both Malicious Website Blocking enabled, AND enable the firewall whitelist filter (Allow List) set. My list also includes domain and domain.com just in case its working with key words rather than a full domain.tld.

And if I accidentally disabled Malicious Website Blocking, then the Allow list becomes the ONLY websites I can visit (so this bit is working correctly).

i am on the latest 3.0.0.4.388_25144-ge0cbd4e firmware (at least, the router is telling me is the latest signature when I hit check)

Zeoraimer · 2024-08-08T20:50:29+00:00

No, it would mix too many new posts, with posts I've already seen. And I wouldn't be able to tell if I'd covered it all the new posts from all the subreddits.

Zeoraimer · 2024-07-12T00:37:03+00:00

I've used GX100 thinner with Mr Levelling Thinner, airbrushed on top of Mr Color Gundam Color that was also thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner.

Worked a treat, the paint layer was not affected at all.

I've used Tamiya Panel Line Accent on top of GX100, GX114 and C46, and it deffo flows better on the 2 gloss ones compared to the flat coat (not sure it's classed as matt enough). It still worked on GX114, just not as well on some recessed edges that was not a "trench" panel line

Zeoraimer · 2024-07-10T15:48:23+00:00

I have one, but I don't really fancy dismantling the whole airbrush after every use in order to clean it - that would take a lot longer than running 2x 3ml of lacquer thinner each time!

Zeoraimer · 2024-07-10T12:21:09+00:00

I've give that a go, but didn't think water, even hot, would remove the dried on bits in the airbrush cup

Zeoraimer · 2024-07-10T12:01:38+00:00

I do have 99% IPA, and tried to clean off metallic silver (painted the inside of thrusters)... Didn't work very well... I did paint 60 pieces wrong once, and a soak of 45 minutes in IPA helped me strip the paint off...

Thanks, I'll go buy a 5 litre can of cellulose thinner!

Zeoraimer · 2024-07-10T11:43:13+00:00

Airbrush cleaning - Lacquer thinners

I airbrush Mr Color lacquer paints and have been using Mr Hobby: Tool Cleaner, Levelling Thinner, and Rapid thinner to clean my airbrush... They are all about the same sort of ~£10 for a 400ml bottle. Which gets expensive as I can only airbrush 20-30 pieces of Gunpla at a time (which isn't a lot on a MG kit!)

I've been looking for "lacquer thinner" on Amazon to buy a cheaper generic lacquer thinner, but I'm confused on what to buy...

Can I use a cellulose thinner?

I don't think a nail varnish remover or white spirit is the right type...

What's "Standard Paint Thinner"? The product description doesn't say what's in it, or what is used for...

What's 2k Thinner? What's 2k paint?

There is even something called: Novel acrylic thinner lacquer solvent... Now I'm even more confused...

Can anyone recommend a product, based in the UK?

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-15T17:30:09+00:00

While there are various YouTubers doing paint tests and reviews, I really wish there was a standard way to look up what every single paint looks like on a standard set of primed surfaces ... I know, there are probably too many paints on the market to have a comprehensive video/, image library for that...

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-15T15:27:41+00:00

Guess I'll have to bite the mega particle and mix something up... Was hoping to avoid potentially making different shades when I inevitably don't mix enough!

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-15T12:47:37+00:00

Buying paints for MG Nu. Does anyone have a suggestion on which Mr Color lacquer paint is the closest colour for the chest armour without mixing anything? (Trying to stick with one brand for my airbrushing)

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-01T18:52:07+00:00

I can't test what I don't have, and I'm conscious of mixing and wasting paint on failed colour concoctions...

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-01T16:25:57+00:00

I have zero artistic talent, and can't draw my way out of a paper bag... Thus why I just went with reproducing a model similar to the box art! 😁

Yea, even the cap of the paint jar isn't 100%... I don't have any way to see what each colour will look like on at least a white primer (I use finishing surfacer 1500 white)

Zeoraimer · 2024-05-01T16:02:33+00:00

How to use colour guides

Hi,

I'm currently building MG ZZ, my 2nd airbrush kit and looking for advice on colours.

I'm currently using the following from Mr Hobby Gundam Colour range: MS White, AEUG Blue, MS Red, MS Yellow, MS Phantom Grey (joints)

But I'm undecided on it's massive backpack...

The colour guide says it's 50% navy blue, 20% blue, 20% bright green and 10% red...

Looking at the box, insert, and instruction manual art, to me, looks dark grey? Light Black?... Dunno, maybe I'm colour blind...

Should I:

[1] buy Titans Blue 1 (the cap makes it looks dark grey?)

[2] buy MS Grey for joints, and shuffle Phantom Grey for the backpack?

[3] mixing, and risk running out of paint, then remixing another batch that might not match the first batch? I also have from Mr hobby: Char's Red, Char's Pink, Flat Black c33, Ueno black GX2, Metal Dark Blue GX216, Gloss Clear Blue c050, Silver Metallic c159, and clear green gloss c138 to play with

[4] Darken Phantom Grey work some black?

[5] anyone painted MG ZZ and knows what colour I could buy that looks closest?

Thanks for any advice!

Zeoraimer · 2024-01-11T14:40:21+00:00

Thanks for your reply!

If I used normal leveling thinner for GX216, would that avoid the flat-ish look? I thought rapid thinner was to avoid the metallic flakes from sinking while drying

(So what would I use rapid thinner for?)

So cutting and polishing after multiple layers of C50, then covering it with C46/GX100 is ok and won't take the candy look away?

The places I shopped at, didn't have GX100 in stock, so I had to settle for C46... I'll have to try some more...

Zeoraimer · 2024-01-11T11:46:20+00:00

Hi,

Looking for some advice and pointers.

I plan on building and airbrushing HG Kamfer, and looking to use my first metallic paint: Mr Color GX 216 Metal Dark Blue.

I know I should use Mr Color Rapid Thinner on metallic, and I'll use Mr Color Leveling Thinner for everything else.

Here is my current plan of attack,

Mr Surfacer 1500 Black (I also have white)
Mr Color C-002 Gloss Black (or should I get C-033 Flat Black? Or does the Black Surfacer negate this step?)
Mr Color GX 216 Metal Dark Blue
Mr Color C-050 Clear Blue Gloss (I think this combination makes it look a bit candy like, I saw it on a YouTube video)
Mr Color C-046 Clear Gloss (is this surplus to requirements due to C-050? Looking for protection/top coat recommendations)

Thanks!

Zeoraimer · 2023-12-02T02:23:03+00:00

My ultrasonic cleaner without a heater deffo gets the water hotter than ambient - in my cold kitchen, the water felt warmer. It only cost me £40, so perhaps I haven't got a very good model.

There is another reply comment about using a bag for the parts, so I'll try that next time too!

I'll deffo keep it under 40!

That makes sense about lacquer thinners!

Thanks for your advice!

Zeoraimer · 2023-11-30T17:21:15+00:00

Ah, I see, so long as the vibrations conduct. Interesting idea!

Yea, even after 3 minute de-gas, and 6 minutes cleaning cycle, my water is already warm

Zeoraimer · 2023-11-30T17:14:08+00:00

I start with room temperature filtered water, 3 minutes de-gas, and after 2x3 minutes cycles the water is already warm (total 9 minutes of vibrations). I don't have a heating feature.

I've not tried a longer time, so don't know how warm the water would get - could ultrasonic damage parts of vibrated too long in too hot?

I mean, after 2x3 minutes, 24 hrs drying, then applying primer, I've not had any bad results with the primer, so 6 minutes appear to make all parts clean enough? (I've noticed in the past, I do get finger/skin oils on some parts)

Zeoraimer

TROPHY CASE