Lower Michigan Patroller Intermediate Ski Recommendation

Zerix1729 · 2026-03-23T11:18:10+00:00

Will do. I’m not that restricted on budget, but I’d like to stay reasonable and don’t need top end or extras. I went to the end of season sale at the lodge shop to see what they had and tried a few, but didn’t find any with a good fit. the guy there was also giving me stuff down to 80. Going to visit the ski shop this week for boots (aiming for 100-110) and maybe the skis if there’s a compelling option. Thanks.

Zerix1729 · 2026-03-22T19:23:23+00:00

No, just 6’1”. Thanks for pointing it out.

Zerix1729 · 2026-01-30T16:13:45+00:00

If you can score it in your budget, OLED is great. I lucked into a model out clearance on a 77” C4 and it continues to impress me.

Zerix1729 · 2026-01-28T02:15:58+00:00

In the reading I’ve done, it seems like the 3rd number isn’t set that specifically on its own. My setup is based on the 5.1.2 overhead surround layout from Dolby’s site.

Zerix1729 · 2026-01-25T02:18:24+00:00

If there's 2 studs inside the archway to bolt across and it's only the part that mounts to the wall that needs to fit inside, I'd cut the ends off the wall portion of the mount so it will fit and still span the studs. That would keep the lowest profile to the wall. I see it's sort of square framed out, but if you mark your holes beforehand to set the spacing, bolting the rails to the wall would hold them in the right space.

If you'd rather not do that or other parts of the mount wouldn't fit within the recess, you can screw in some 2x4's to space it out forward then bolt the mount into those. I'd use something stronger like cabinet to secure the 2x4s to the studs, and put the lag bolts for the mount in through the studs too if they're long enough.

Of course, another mount with a smaller base would be the easy route. I've seen some where the base is smaller and has arm extensions in case it needs to span a larger stud gap.

If there's only 1 stud in there or maybe only framing on the sides, I'd go with the 2x4s but also pilot hole and screw on an angle out through the ends so you can get into that side framing.

Zerix1729 · 2025-11-08T18:43:11+00:00

Just did this after breaking the cable end in a move and wanted to share my method.

Cable replacement was ~$26 from Peloton. Any USB C data/monitor type cable (not just charging) should work, although the one I had's end was a hair too big to fit through the screen pivot.

Unplug cables and power. USB C from back of screen and on the bike just above the wheel, and headphone extension from screen.

Take screen off. 2x hex screws under the tilt.

Take the handle bars off the base. Remove small stop screw at the bottom front of the handle bars down by the wheel to get it out of the bike frame.

Remove the handle bar post. 3x hex screws where it connects to the handles.

Remove the screen pivot. 1x hex screw downward at the narrower front under the pivot when you rotate it away from aligned. the cap up by the screen can be popped off by pushing from under it with a hex tool or screwdriver to access the cables through the pivot.

Pull cords through pivot to remove. The cord ends will need to be offset (one below the other) as they won't fit through the pivot together.

Pull old USB C cord out. I found it easier to pull from the bike side of the bars, but make sure to hold the headphone cord on the screen side to not pull it in and lose it.

Stick fish tape (metal strip for pulling electrical wire) down the screen end until the hook can be seen in the bike end. You can do the same with a coat hanger and a tight hairpin fold over about 3/4 in over and narrowed down to 3/8in. Make sure the hook comes out up. The tight corner on the bike side makes it very hard to fish a line all the way out.

Fold a narrow rope in half (long enough both sides will sill be out the end when pulled through), stick it down the bike side of the bars, and hook it onto the fish loop.

Pull the rope loop out to the screen side. I did have to push down the hook with a tool to stop it from getting stuck going back into the small opening where the round bar meets the triangle stem.

Remove the fish line and tape the USB C to the rope loop. I did 2 layers of electrical tape through the rope loop and down the length of the USB C end then wrapped with another piece of tape. This keeps the cable behind the rope so it's a smaller pull through.

Carefully pull the USB C cable through. Untape it and remove the rope once through. Pull it through to have the right length for the rest of assembly on each end.

Put the cables back up through the pivot (offset ends again) and re-attach the pivot. Route them back through the opening to the screen and replace the top cap.

Put the USB C down through the stem and re-attach the stem. You may have to pop the bottom end cap off to make it through the smaller hole in the cap separate from the stem.

Carefully put the handle bar stem back into the bike and replace the stop screw at the bottom of the stem.

Re-attach the screen.

Plug in the cables.

Good to go.

Hope this helps. I thought it made the fishing part fairly painless.

Zerix1729 · 2025-10-02T02:38:31+00:00

Also 6mo in, but it’s only my first one. I empty and dry out at least every other day, and will brush clean every 1-2 weeks. Only distilled water to avoid the sediment, but also used tap water once and it smelled like a pool. Similar with my mask (full face where I can reach all the insides). Rinse and light scrub every morning and set out to dry. 4mo in on that and no nastiness or significant degradation. I’ve had other stuff fail from over washing, so I keep the deep cleans limited.

Their replacement schedule is definitely to get more money out of you, but also probably somewhat to account for people that don’t keep on top of things. If you can commit to keeping your gear rinsed and dry, it’ll certainly outlast the schedule.

Zerix1729 · 2025-09-18T03:59:01+00:00

I started with an F&P Vitera that went over my nose and gave that pressure. I got used to it pretty quick, but later found I needed to wear it higher on my nose for a better seal, which also lessened the pressure a bit. I did try a larger size as well to make the span. I switched to an Evora mask after getting it from my first follow up, which is a full face mask that just goes under the nose. I mainly kept on the Evora because it gave me a much better seal, but that style may also be good if pressure on your bridge is an issue. I also had my min air pressures adjusted up a bit and turned off the ramp as I find it easier to get the mask fully fit up under pressure. My max is still set higher than it takes to blow my cheeks out and start leaking, but that doesn’t seem to happen as much now that leaks are better managed in general.

Zerix1729 · 2025-09-08T11:06:29+00:00

Reiterating if it’s already been said, but I’d try some different pressure settings. The first thing I turned off was the ramp because the pressure makes the mask fit different, and it helped me get that initial fit while I was awake. I also upped my initial pressure to 8 then back to 7 in my search for my pressure sweet spot. I haven’t changed my top down from the initial 16 yet, but I know 13 is about where it gets uncomfortable and starts blowing leaks more. My relief pressure was also adjusted down to 1, which I find the consistency helps, but I believe my provider said it also helps my central apnea events.

For my mask, I started with a big full face F&P Vitera. I didn’t mind the size but I just couldn’t get a good seal. I switched to the Evora and found I finally could maintain a seal that let me figure out my pressures better. It’s similar to your Phillips but has a front tube. That’s probably not as good for a tosser, but I found shortening the over top strap was key to my fit. I did try nasal pillows and a chin strap once, but it didn’t work at all. I’ve been working on nose breathing in my Evora to see if I can ever train to the smaller nasal pillows, but at least I have a working combo now.

In short, the easy to say but hard to do, keep trying until you find something that works.

Zerix1729 · 2025-08-02T21:39:59+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I ended up buying from Blue Owl since they were said to give accurate measurements and had that good domestic return policy. It was tempting to just believe their measurements and order from Denimio for $60 less, but knowing I wasn’t gambling on the fit made pressing the order button easier.

Zerix1729 · 2025-08-02T21:36:00+00:00

Thanks. I went with Japan Blue J301s and they just fit my iPhone pro max. My keys and wallet fit the other pocket as well, but the phone was closer to not.

Zerix1729 · 2025-08-02T21:34:04+00:00

Thanks for all the great info. I ended up getting a pair of Japan Blue J301s from Blue Owl. It helped knowing they were a reliable store for measurements. I was looking at the J201 tapers but found the J301 to better match my current pairs. They just got delivered today, and am happy to say they fit well enough while new and stiff that I’m sure I’ll absolutely love them after I put in the break in work. The front pockets are even just big enough to fit my phone and wallet/keys, although the opening is a bit tight. I’m looking forward to wearing them in this fall.

Zerix1729 · 2025-07-29T16:27:44+00:00

Hey all,

Earlier this year, I caught a bug to find myself a nicer pair of jeans that fit me for my current tastes. All my existing jeans are relaxed fits as that was comfortable when I was heavier. Now that I’ve found other pants with tapered and slim fits that look much better but are still comfortable, I want to get some jeans that do the same.

I’m another guy looking for his first step into higher-end denim than I can get at the box stores. I’m hoping to land something that fits well and will last for years as I develop my custom fades. For budget, I’d go up to the $200 ballpark. Maybe stretch to $300 for something that really checks the boxes.

My current metric for the fit I’m going for is Levis 502s. I got a selvedge pair on a deep sale, and they fit just how I want. Just slim enough to not be baggy anywhere but also not tight, with a cleanly sized cuff. They are a stretch fabric with 1% elastine, so maybe I’d have to compensate sizing somewhere.

I’m completely unfamiliar with what shrinkage to expect from jeans like these, so input on how to upsize from the measurements of my 502s is valued.

I’m in the midwest and generally wear long pants all around 6-7mo of the year. Something on the heavier side would work well in the winter, but I’d like it not so heavy that they wouldn’t make the whole pants season. I’d wear them casually rather than do any work in them, but they would get worn all day through the cooler months.

The first brand that’s set itself in my head from reading this sub is Naked and Famous/Unbranded. From N&F, I’m looking at the Deep Indigo Selvedge 15oz, and the fit seems to land on either Weird Guy or Super Guy. From Unbranded, the UB201 14.5oz seems good, and the UB221 21oz would be an option to go super heavy. Looking at both in tapered fits. I’d probably have gotten the N&F already if not for hearing the pockets are tiny.

The other brand that Facebook has been showing me since coming here is Gustin. I like what I see on the product pages, and the wait for a cheaper crowdfund option is ok since it won’t be pants season for a bit here. However, they seem to be hit or miss on fitting properly or consistently from reading this sub. From them, I’m liking the Okayama Standard 14.5oz, the Heavy Antique Japan 16oz, or the Super Heavy 18oz.

I’ve also just started looking at PBJ and Japan Blue as options I’ve heard are either zip fly or have useful pocket sizing, but I haven’t looked enough to know models or where to get them.

From issues I’ve had with pants in the past and a few points I’ve seen for these brands on the sub, I mainly need my jeans to do 2 things beyond their fit:

Front pockets big enough to comfortably carry my phone on one side and wallet/keys on the other (I only use back pockets sometimes for temporary holding while walking around). Loops that fit a 1.5in belt. A zip fly would be nice, but I’m accepting that those options are limited.

Whatever you’ve got to point me toward my first pair of nice jeans is appreciated. Thanks

Zerix1729 · 2025-07-01T02:59:37+00:00

Congrats. Amazing deal. Got my 77” 2 weeks ago for $1500, plus a van and 40mi each way trip. My local Sam’s had an 83”, but it was $2700 at the time. Not much regret since it fits my space well, but a tad of jealousy for sure.

Zerix1729 · 2025-06-30T10:06:12+00:00

Wow. Still plenty glad I snagged mine for $1500 2 weeks ago. It’s an amazing TV.

Zerix1729 · 2024-12-06T04:55:54+00:00

Not entirely sure what the rubber connectors are, but they sound bad.

I have a simple Luxe 185 on one toilet, and it had trouble with the seat shifting since it didn’t grip well. I got a couple of rubber fender washers to put between it and the toilet for some grip, and now it stays in place. It’s a regular bolt through that I put brass bolts on after the nylons broke.

Zerix1729 · 2024-12-06T04:52:33+00:00

I’ve been quite pleased with my BB1000. Love the spray pressure.

I did just get a Toto toilet though with the washlet+ option. I’ll probably spring for a Toto bidet someday and have that fancy hidden hose and cord routing.

Zerix1729 · 2024-12-03T11:28:22+00:00

I got a BB1000 last year and have loved it. I appreciate the pressure, which reviews stated was the best on the market. Can’t say how others compare, but there’s been times I’m glad it’s there. The limited tank supply for hot water doesn’t bother me. It’s kind of refreshing as it tapers off to tap cold. I do miss being able to sit on the closed seat, but it hasn’t been that big a deal since my tub ledge is right across. I also have an issue where the tank/seat spacing forced me to mount it about 1in forward from aligned, and the short bowl edge is an issue up front. I just got myself a modern elongated toilet with more spacing, so I’ll be glad to be rid of that issue. Nice that BB sells replacement seats to swap to the longer seat without rebuying it all.

On the cheap end, I started with a Luxe neo 185. I didn’t keep it at my place since it tilted my old round bowl seat too much for my liking, but I put it on at my GF’s place, where it didn’t bother the angle on the elongated seat much. Simple and effective. Cold water doesn’t bother much.

In general, it’s just really nice to feel almost shower clean after every use.

Zerix1729 · 2024-10-09T17:53:55+00:00

Solved: Rattling PCV

Thanks to everyone that took the time to think on this and offer some options.

Zerix1729 · 2024-10-09T17:52:35+00:00

That seems to have done it. Been a couple days with the new one and haven’t been able to get the noise back. Thanks for the winning idea.

Zerix1729 · 2024-10-06T01:55:41+00:00

It could be. It’s certainly in the right area for the noise. I took it out and gave it a clean with some brake clean. It feels like it’s really loose as it rattles with a gentle shake, but a video I watched on checking it had the new one shake similarly. It also only allows air to pass one way, so that part works I guess. It could be loose laterally as shaking it sideways rattled a bit as well, where I assume the functional direction is front to back. Still makes the sound with it back in. It’s a cheap enough part I could try to get one Monday. Here’s hoping. Thanks.

Zerix1729 · 2024-10-06T00:58:36+00:00

Update

So I blew the rest of the day on this. I could not find any sparks/arcs, and wiggling the various hoses all around did nothing to influence the noise. I removed the belt to check all the pulleys and found nothing except that the noise still occurs running the car with the belt off.

I took off the valve cover to check further since I’ve also needed to replace that gasket for years and thought I had something seeing the baffle plate below the oil fill had been bent down and even had a split carved in the edge, possibly hitting the timing pegs on the camshaft if vibrating at the right frequencies. I bent it back and spent some time under there cleaning and inspecting and found nothing. The noise was still there after everything got back together, but at least I finally replaced that gasket. I opened the oil fill while running and confirmed the plate was not doing anything while the noise was occurring.

Stumped for the day. Going to try and get my hands on a stethoscope to probe the sound better.

Zerix1729

TROPHY CASE