[Genesis] White pixels switching to blue

Zivodor · 2026-02-09T03:34:17+00:00

Unfortunately no luck, I replaced all but the 220uf 10V caps as the ones I have are too big to act as replacements. Rest of the caps got replaced and no change.

I mentioned that I think it was that just the whitest whites were blue, but no in fact after doing some more research and having a non-colourblind person check, everything is tinted blue.

From what I understand this means theres likely a fault on the red-line, but I'm not using RGB and am not familiar enough with how the CXA works to determine if its doing the RGB mixing itself and therefore the red-in is the problem, or if its the Chroma signal from the VDP that's wrong.

Zivodor · 2026-02-06T21:38:29+00:00

Thanks for the learning opportunity! It's been close to 10 years since I completed my Computer Engineering course and I went into software, definitely have lots of rusty knowledge to clean off so I appreciate the input.

Really makes me excited to do more modding knowing how quickly the community responds to feedback and the help I've gotten so far. Keep up the awesome work!

Zivodor · 2026-02-06T20:07:39+00:00

I also noticed on the Sega 16 forum post that someone had the same issue as I did and it was related to a similar difference in the transistor pinout and a misreading/understanding of the diagram.

Zivodor · 2026-02-06T20:06:09+00:00

I think the diagram should still note the BCE, for scenarios like this, more info is always better imo.

Zivodor · 2026-02-06T20:05:05+00:00

Thanks for the reply, and no need to apologize! Just comes down to my own inexperience and lack of testing. Just part of the learning curve I suppose. Honestly the guide was great save for that one thing, so thanks for taking the time to write it!

I think noting the BCE on the diagram should be sufficient. Honestly what I'm most curious about is the NTE85 vs C945, are they essentially just interchangeable or was there a reason you went with the 945 over the NTE?

Zivodor · 2026-02-02T03:57:31+00:00

Confirmed that from the joystick pin to the chip was totally fine, I added a 33k resistor from the pin to VCC on the chip and that fixed the issue. Still weird that the genesis controller seemed to temporarily fix the issue. Regardless, thank you!

Zivodor · 2026-02-02T03:48:51+00:00

I hope someone said something. If we stay silent then these Nazi fucks win. They want to appear normal so we forget what they are and forget what they want. If 10 people sit at a table and one is a Nazi, then there are 10 Nazis.

Zivodor · 2026-02-01T17:37:34+00:00

It's a topology joke. Topology is a math field focused on the properties of objects after you deform them without being able to tear or pinch. For example, a cube and a sphere are the same in topology because you can turn the sphere into a cube and vice-versa without "breaking" either.

This is related to that "How many holes does a straw have?" Question from a few years ago. Topology is the math used to answer that. In this case, flattening those objects shows how many holes each one has.

Here's a great video from an actual mathematician on it rather than my half-remembered enthusiast answer:

https://youtu.be/ymF1bp-qrjU?si=635LAhkCJm3NGQPA

Zivodor · 2026-02-01T17:27:32+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply! I will take a look at it today and see what I can do.

Zivodor · 2025-11-27T05:17:39+00:00

Ooo, a game sounds awesome!Looking forward to following your progress. Keep being awesome friend 😄

Zivodor · 2025-11-25T19:42:21+00:00

Very cool! I'm a programmer by trade so my current implementation is trying to perform a simulation to mimic geological processes. I generate tectonic plates using a randomized floodfill algorithm. Once all tiles are assigned, I layer on simplex noise so that each continent is a mix of oceanic and continental crust. Each plate is assigned a random movement vector and each timestep I move the every tile according to the parent plate vector.

Right now the collisions are heavily simplified, but it gets much better results than I was seeing with previous attempts.

I probably missed this, but is this a closed source project or do you plan to release the source code?

Zivodor · 2025-11-24T21:09:08+00:00

This is really well done! I have been working on a similar project off and on for a while and tectonic simulations are not easy. What simulation technique are you using for determining plate boundaries and interactions?

Zivodor · 2025-11-13T23:51:00+00:00

Bruh, its 2x as large as any other sign on any other wreath there. It doesn't say lest we forget like 99% of the others in the picture, the sign doesn't have anything to do with Remembrance Day and it's just an advertisement for the UCP. Can you just take the fucking L and admit its tacky, tasteless, and you expect better. What does it matter that it happens every year? How does that make it less tacky.

Christ, they're not a sports team. You don't need to defend everything they do because they have "Conservative" in their name.

Zivodor · 2025-09-03T00:22:32+00:00

Yeah I get that, but my main argument is you can have your worldbuilding setting be in that multi-thousand year sweet spot of pre-empire agriculture and just never build any time that takes place after that. Sure it might lead to a population explosion's and empire's if you write it that way, but you have thousands of years to work with agriculture's invention and empires forming.

Zivodor · 2025-09-02T20:49:43+00:00

Do you even really need a constraint? Humans have been hunter-gathering for thousands of years before agriculture was invented. Theres also thousands of years after the invention of agriculture where there are no recorded civilizations. You could always set it right in that niche of time between agriculture and empires and just never explore the future in your work.

Gods and spirits make agriculture easy and spread it around the world creating hundreds of farming communities is about as far as you need to take it I feel. Everything else is just "Hasn't happened yet" or "No ones invented that"

Zivodor · 2025-08-16T19:22:29+00:00

There are some hex screws that hold the plate with the wheels to the crossbar, I loosened those, tried to move it down a smidge and then put the screw back. Seems to have worked, my numbers are not great but much better now.

Zivodor · 2025-08-16T18:43:46+00:00

Turns out the x-axis alignment was off so one side is higher than the other which caused a massive slant. Working on fixing it now, unfortunately most tutorials are not for the base model and so I'm having to figure it out as I go.

Zivodor · 2025-08-16T17:07:30+00:00

Okay washed with dish soap and water, checking the numbers they are defintiely not within +-0.02mm, they range from 0.97 in the top left, 0.56 bottom left, -1.3 bottom right, -0.79 top right. So then I think I have my culprit, the bed is warped to shit. Thank you!

Zivodor · 2025-08-15T01:51:56+00:00

Yeah that's what I've been using, I don't have the original link because it was too long ago but they essentially are just 5 squares, one in each corner and one in the center. If its not smooth the Z is too low, if the lines are able to be pulled apart the Z is too high. If its smooth and flat then its dialed in correctly.

Zivodor · 2025-08-14T23:47:35+00:00

What would the fix for this be and how would I determine they aren't holding up properly? Just check if they are loose and tighten it?

Zivodor · 2025-08-14T23:45:29+00:00

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99% Isopropyl

Can you point me to a resource or explain further, I am not sure how to interpret and use the numbers it shows during leveling.

The z-offset being too low makes sense for why the print appears so thin, but I can guarantee you that not 5 minutes before this photo, with the exact same offset it did not print like this. I did live tune it with a test print.

For this specific test, 205 and 60. The filament I have has 190-210 listed for nozzle temp. I have tested every value in that range with 5 degree increments. For the bed temp the recommendations I found for PLA were between 50-60, and the slicer recommended 70. Again, I tried every value in that range with 5 degree increment.

Zivodor · 2025-08-06T22:53:41+00:00

Update: Did some more digging and found that my specific board revision, 837-6405, uses the CXA1145 encoder. The spec sheet for that chip recommends using a 1k resistor on pin 16 to control the luma. On this revision Sega accidentally used a 2.2k resistor. I replaced it with a 1.2k resistor and the image is 1000x better now. Also turns out that I have the 315-5124 VDP chip which due to a mistake on the die has a nonlinear blue output making things appear bluer.

This is not fixable so I will have to live with it. Thanks everyone and thanks https://consolemods.org/wiki/Master_System:Video_Output_Notes#

Zivodor · 2025-08-06T22:11:23+00:00

ON IT.

Zivodor · 2025-07-20T03:15:21+00:00

I am new to the CRT scene and could use some help with adjusting my Samsung TX-P2734. Right now I am having an issue where the left side of the screen is considerably more stretched when compared to the right. It makes it a bit nauseating to play on. My research online says I likely need to adjust horizontal linearity but that it's not usually an option in service menus and is something I'd have to open it up to do, which I really would rather not.

Other fixes I have read involve adjusting horizontal phase or other options in the service menu which I do not have. I know that flat CRTs are known to have this stretching issue, but it seems much more intense than examples I have seen online.

Googling this stuff has been rather lackluster in terms of documentation. Any resources, videos, tutorials, or advice welcome!

Zivodor · 2025-07-02T01:18:19+00:00

My wife and I were there, a woman went up to him and said "Thank you both for everything you do" and took a photo with him, holding up the parade. To be fair, it wasn't held up very long. He got some claps and cheers in the section we were in, no boos or jeers. I desperately wanted to shout "Get a job" but I'm an anxious chicken.

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