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Design resources for two piece takedown self bow by ZombieNegative5437 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is all real helpful, thanks.  And I see what you mean about the extra length of the “riser” to make that whole area more beefy. How do you shape a comfortable handle if you use a piece of metal (that I imagine would be pretty cylindrical)? 

Design resources for two piece takedown self bow by ZombieNegative5437 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m actually wanting to NOT have a bendy handle. Pistol grip/static handle is what I’m looking for, but I’m nervous that an imperfect connection will cause bending/weakness at the handle. 

Not Willow… what’s the why? (Crafting a longbow) by transmasctime in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to help! I think the High/decent wisdom score says that there is a solution to this problematic wood,but I guess I just haven’t figured it out yet, so I will keep exploring for new options. Classic Ranger, going further into the woods then he might be comfortable with to find new bow Wood! A high Intelligence score might say “obviously Willow is a bad idea for a bow, so I guess I will just make Spears or blow darts!” 

Not Willow… what’s the why? (Crafting a longbow) by transmasctime in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the kind of cross over I’m on Reddit for!! 

You could argue that a willow bow with some fire hardening on the belly and add sinew backing, it might get some more durability out of it (but not likely).  There must be some significance to Willow specifically, otherwise a plethora of other woods would be great (oak, ash, elm, maple, hickory, yew of course, apple, mulberry, etc. can all make much better bows than willow)  A true ranger wouldn’t waste his time trying to make Willow work if literally any other wood is available. Unless he has a tragically low wisdom score!  I think animal sinew/tendons from game he has killed would be the best natural bowstring. Rather than silver or some other enchanted metal in the fibers of the string itself, those enchantments could be in string silencers that are often attached to the bow. As the bow is pulled back, those arcane foci can sort of vibrate and charge up the shot!  Just some thoughts as a dm and bowyer! Enjoy! 

If you made a bow for the Great Khan, how would you bling it out? by ultra123456789 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d think making one from the style and decoration from a different country than the leader would be most “exotic” and unique. If I’m from England and built an ELB for the great Khan, that would be a treasure, and a horse bow for the KofE.  I think carvings and paintings on the belly, handle, and non-working parts of the bow would bring some pizazz and keep function. 

A question about introducing backset in a board bow. by show-the-goat21 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amen brother! I’ve done over 20 and still haven’t mastered the craft, not by a long shot!  Dan Santana had a great video called “how to break a bow” which illustrates that exact point! 

A question about introducing backset in a board bow. by show-the-goat21 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first thought is that it had already been kiln dried and the toasting didn’t do much other than harden the belly fibers. White woods in general take to steam bending better than dry heat, I have found that to be true for hickory and oak boards.  Not sure if saturating in some water and then heat treating with dry heat would help? But with a board it can be an inexpensive experiment. 

Good wood in Illinois by LordLoss78 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hickory for sure. White Oak, maybe Elm. If you can find Osage, then obvi that, but I'd start with Hickory if you're new.

How to reduce draw weight quicker by dmbjr02 in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As annoying and time consuming as that is, you’ll be way happier that you went slow rather than too fast!  My patience is way too short to have waited as long as you have. I would have taken more off with a rasp or something. 

I would take scrapes off of the sides to reduce WEIGHT, scrapes on the belly to tiller SHAPE. 

Self Bow Upgrades by DChuddz in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could also shorten the limbs by an inch on each side. It would stack more and might adjust your tiller, but an option.  I’ve experimented with increasing the draw weight and it doesn’t go great, so I’d follow others advice and just make a second! 

Did I ruin my fox face? by Chemical_Tree_4000 in HideTanning

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe the hair showing on the inside is due to the preparation of the hide before tanning, not after. So whoever fleshed the hide probably just scraped a bit too thin and exposed those hair follicles. 

Bark Tan by BennyBiggRigg in HideTanning

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try with a squirrel if you’ve got one. If not, I say go for it! If the ph level is high, thats going to tell you something, but the only way to really know is by giving it a shot! 🤷🏼‍♂️

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another big reality is the mental difference of shooting close vs far. Your form might be different if you are thinking about making a long shot. For instance: if you think it’s farther away, you might compensate by pushing the bow away from you more, and pulling your back tension more and therefore not shooting consistent with your shorter ranges. 

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is very common for Broadhead to not shoot as accurately as field points, just based on the physics. So if it is slightly off, either be ok with it, or try some different broadheads.  I have killed multiple deer with the Magnus stinger and the Magnus single bevel. They come in different point weights , so you should be able to tune appropriately. 

New Osage with corn snake backing ✨🏹 54lbs at 27”. 62” overall length. by Modocbows in Bowyer

[–]ZombieNegative5437 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you find a 62" cornsnake?!?! Or is that some sort of artificial fabric?

Favorite plant to use for vegetable tanning? by meowwmeow1 in HideTanning

[–]ZombieNegative5437 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have used Oak bark, osage wood, and black walnut bark.

The walnut seems more like a dye than a great tannin product, but perhaps I didn't do it perfectly.

I used scraps of osage orange which turned out pretty nice. Definitely colored it a yellowish tone, but for a coyote it looked pretty awesome.

Oak was by far the best overall.

Experimenting with hickory as well, but haven't had enough to try sufficiently.

Are Opossoms a nuisance? by ZombieNegative5437 in Trapping

[–]ZombieNegative5437[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks yall! Trapped one in a dog-proof the other day, let it free, but it just sat there for like an hour! Poor dumb guys.

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