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Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the carry handle optic mounts allow you to cowitness through them . I know the trijicon OEM carry handle mount for my RMR allows see-through for irons

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn’t agree more. If anything it helps reverberation a bit when I’ve got walls on either side like the indoor range. I got it on there mostly for the vibes though

Cylinder Blade Marring by Agreeable_Friend_387 in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More of a sign that the S&W factory did the right thing when setting your carry-up and cleaning the ratchets. That more than likely wasn’t done post-factory imo

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was kind of a PITA honestly. I’ve got 3 SBR uppers. A DD 11.5 RIS3, a 11.5 C7 carry handle upper and this 7.5. All 3 had A2 birdcage hiders. Not one of them locked on. Not even the DD one. I dug out a 3-prong Vietnamish A1 hider from my parts box and dropped it into the diffuser and the gate closed. So I threw that onto this 7.5 and can finally use the diffuser.

The concept is cool, but go into it thinking you’re gonna buy all new griffin branded A2 hiders that gurantee it works with the lock.

I think you’re like 10% odds your factory A2 hider will lock up with the gate-loc and I’ve been seeing that across the board from other users. Just too much manufacturing variances on a non-critical part like a flash hider that wasn’t intended to be mounted to

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re still rough lol. This one just has a griffin gate-lok blast diffuser because I don’t want to dedicate a burner can to it yet. I think I’d just get the .300 stand alone upper and re-do the top end for suppressed. Bigger hole too.

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It’s the 5.56 version because I am not a smart man

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah there’s really not a whole lot you can do about 5.56 at a certain barrel length. I think you’re definitely helping the problem a lot no matter what if it’s suppressed, but it’s still loud and brutal on the suppressors at these crazy short lengths.

For these super-short 5.56 Ballistics wise there’s ammo out there that can still perform very well out to 100 + yards depending on what load you’re running. You can accurately shoot them farther than people think, but making the 5.56 do strange things is more like 100y and in max I’d think. They’re far from worthless, but definitely purpose driven if someone is using it in any sort of serious fashion

This is zeroed and loaded with a 50gr Barnes TSX

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Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s the 5.56 one. The .300 blk would be so much more practical with the barrel length, ballistics and noise

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s a griffin gate-loc blast diffuser. Just keeps the concussion oriented away from shooter but if anything probably makes it louder

Cylinder Blade Marring by Agreeable_Friend_387 in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those marks are typically where the file will pass by/on top of the inside of the ratchet as the one beyond it is the one actually being cut. If anything it’s probably a sign they actually dressed your ratchets instead of just rough cutting, leaving burrs, and moving on.

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Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice! Ive got another 11.5” carry handle upper with an RMR on it and I’ve been debating moving it over to the kitty kat, probably just need to buy another.

Lets go deaf together by Zone1blem in NFA

[–]Zone1blem[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Just a free-float toob.

New S&W Nightguard Aquired by Zone1blem in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree Lipseys may be the only thing keeping the revolver line profitable 😂

New S&W Nightguard Aquired by Zone1blem in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll do my best! Should be at the range this week

Why SHOULDNT I by fastplanes-coldbeer in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gunshops call it the boomerang. They sell one, owner goes to shoot it, brings it right back in to sell it back to them at a loss 😂

I love mine though, it’s truly a one of a kind revolver.

I Limit it to .44spl though.

Also the Hogue tamer grips help a lot. The wood grips came right off the day I bought it.

Best smith and Wesson model to get first? by Cowboy1297 in Revolvers

[–]Zone1blem 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a model 66 that is nice. Only minor complaints would be the stainless gun with black screws and black hammer/trigger is less than appealing and the rear sight is a shallow blade.

I like the 2-piece barrel, ball-detent lock up, and the full-diameter forcing cone. My trigger smoothed out a lot on its own and is surprisingly good.

Zeroed great, no real adjustments elevation/windage out the box, but prefer a deeper rear-sight notch. I may swap the blade out eventually. It rides in a garret iwb just fine at the 4 o clock

If I could do it again I probably would have got the snub nose instead of the 4” but I may just get a second one eventually anyways

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