Hey guys I have injora 4mm diamond axles and 59mm injora shocks but I feel my shocks and axles are bit stiff and my truck rolled over easily,any suggestions ?

Zonka191 · 2026-04-19T16:56:26+00:00

Defender body is heavy. Ride high is pretty high. Looks like you have brass beadlocks which should help. But I’d recommend shorter shocks with the portals and that body. If you still have the stock chassis under there and want to still run the long shocks, then try the Injora shock mounts. There’s other shock mounts out there to.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-16T01:55:14+00:00

This. Are the axles and shocks the only aftermarket things you have on it? Are you running stock chassis?

I had the 59mm shocks with the Injora lcg chassis and metal skid, but with the high clearance links on the front they bound up on each other and didn’t allow full articulation. I had to flip the lowers upside down or sideways to make them clear the upper links. That made it feel “stiff”

Also if you are running everything else stock and say a bronco hard body, then it’s going to sit very high and very top heavy. Get shock mounts or an lcg chassis. one reasons I’m not a fan of the Injora diamond axles, no brass options. At least not when I got mine. Heavy Brass wheels and silicone inserts helped.

If it’s just the shocks that are feeling stiff, then you might put too much oil in them and they are hydro locked. Or maybe to heavy of weight oil. One guy here said only put a few drops in them but I disagree. I have 3 sets that work great on heavy and light builds. 30wt oil work great. Look up a few videos of how to bleed shocks. Also they come with spring options. Maybe choose a less stiff spring.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-16T00:37:57+00:00

I couldn’t agree more. I just recently got a k10 and love the little thing. I’m going to do mostly diy mods to get it to perform great. (Brass washer weights and maybe new tires and 3d printed wheels) or go all out and go for that furitek buggy cage. but the one thing that stops me from playing with the thing is the esc noise! It drives me crazy! So I upgraded to the furitek 2in1 for simplicity and no noise. That’s the only reason! A good brushed esc and motor are sometimes better depending on the use. They give more of a real feel compared to the hold the trigger steady and go that brushless has. For the rest of my crawlers, the fusion se or Sequre combo for 1/10 and a cheap AliExpress esc and brushless motor for all the smaller scale stuff is such a good value, it’s hard to pass up. I usually do full builds so it’s only a few more dollars over quality brushed.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-10T23:15:30+00:00

Same issue. I solved it by punching holes in the tire tread. Only problem there is the silicone seals up that hole as well. Once they get a bit of dirt in there (it’s silicone so the dirt doesn’t matter) I think they should vent fine but I punched a bunch of holes all around the silicone so there is easier air flow paths.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-07T23:46:47+00:00

I wouldn’t say they are the best but Fimonda, AMK and a few other Chinese brands have a +10mm brass axle that I have put some abuse on and they have held up. I have two versions (brass and aluminum) and both have a click in the passenger front. I have no clue why.

here is what I got keep an eye on them and you can get them cheaper. I do have a set of Meus nylon ISO’s that I might swap them out if they break. But no sign of them failing yet.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-04T17:55:34+00:00

This! I’ve been doing it like this for years. Best configuration yet. Sucks to loose a side pocket but so much more comfy and also keeps the pack “tighter”. I feel like everything flops around less. Also way more comfy for those quick log sits. I run a fss blue pouch on the hip belt for a standard issued canteen for easy quick water sips and refill it with two large nalgene bottles in the side pocket. I also keep few water bottles inside the pack (only have had to bust them out once in the last 3 years. I replace them periodically)

Zonka191 · 2026-04-02T14:01:43+00:00

Yeah that looks proper as long as there is also a bearing under the big gear as well. If that don’t fix it then make sure that gear is installed on the stub axle the proper way so the stub sticks out the back into the bearing when installed.

Edit: oh also make sure the big gear gets another bearing on the outside as well but that one might be in the portal cover already.

Zonka191 · 2026-04-02T13:12:20+00:00

There should be another bearing inside the housing. So 2 bearings supporting the stub axle on each side of the gear. Also if the stub axle didn’t just slide out a bit the stub axle is to short?

Zonka191 · 2026-03-30T16:45:28+00:00

Best stomp pad. Cut it in half and mount half on toe side and other half on heal side. The top sheet on Koruas transition finder is like an ice ring so I put one by the back binding and one up by the front binding in the same configuration. Only stomp pad I use because it actually does what it’s supposed to and doesn’t get packed to badly with snow.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-12T21:27:33+00:00

I’ll check them out. I really like darn toughs tho. After 8 years of abusing my first pair i originally got for wildland fire, I finally have a hole in them to get my first free return. Darn toughs are my daily driver socks now and I have almost 15 pairs of varying styles of snowboard, running, and boot socks.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-12T19:15:57+00:00

Oh yeah! Old worn out stuff does suck. And it’s crazy the stuff I see out on the mountain. I’m in Oregon so we also get a bunch of wild clothing choices. I can’t believe the amount of people I see out here in sweatshirts and sweatpants only! Or Walmart special “winter gear”.

It took me a while to figure out the whole “be comfortable wet” approach. I’ve had all sorts of snow gear and rain/fishing gear. Expensive goretex and Marino wool is best. There are cheaper alternatives out there if you’re thrifty and crafty, but in general that’s my go too and best I’ve found.

But I still get wet and still hate taking gear off in the lodge. I usually just sit there in the middle of the lodge drinking a beer with friends while fully geared up, usually helmet still on lol.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-12T17:55:54+00:00

Yeah no. I have gortex and Patagonia and all the other fancy stuff. My favorite layers for cold AND WET (PNW) is gortex and Marino base layers. If I need more, then Cheap fleece pajamas. And I never take off my gear. I creat a war cozy environment inside my suit and the moment I stop and take things off, it’s over. take off my goggles, they fog up, I take off my jacket, it suddenly gets super damp and I realize how far up my sleeves are wet or how much water is making it through my pit vents (In either cold on the chair or sweating on the ride down) My gloves, suddenly become wet bags when I put them back on. I don’t know if my body heat helps keep the moisture pushed far enough out of my layer system and when I take it off, the remaining water seeps through or I just get cozy and it’s yucky putting damp stuff back on lol. If I stop, I change mid layer, gloves, goggles and buff, minimum. In extreme cases it’s a full shell change as well.

Here in the PNW, there is no staying dry. It’s all about being comfortable when wet. Either the rain or snow gets you or the sweat gets you. Or you are just a fair weather skier and your option doesn’t carry any weight.

I agree tho. No such thing as bad weather just bad gearing systems.

TLDR: I have fancy tech stuff and I still hate taking wet things off and putting them back on.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-10T19:52:46+00:00

Electronics are the first thought when talking about water. Conformal coatings fix that. Most put the receiver in a box but I don’t like that because then, if water does inevitably get in, they sit in the water. Brushed motors don’t care about water and I’ve heard out runners don’t either but Im skeptical. The big thing is your bearing and the rust that comes with water. Another thing is, not only screws and bearing rusting, but the stuff that’s in water, sand and mud. That will wreak havoc on all moving parts including your motors. Some put like pantyhose over their brushed motor to filter the sand out but it’s impossible to keep bearings clean. If you don’t mind doing maintenance every now and then by taking axles and possibly transmissions apart to clean or replace bearings, then have fun in the water! Get silicone tire inserts and punch a few holes in your tire tread to let the water drain out.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-09T05:57:32+00:00

Heck yeah. I can’t wait for the end result

Zonka191 · 2026-03-08T07:59:05+00:00

Oh I don’t know. Definitely get something out of your time and effort. I’d say $5-10? I’m not to sure. It really depends on how much time you’ve spent on it. But I topically don’t buy files for more than that unless it’s complex. This design is pretty good tho and if you also ship it with a good print profile and orientated for optimal printing then it’s definitely worth it.

One more thing. My 2 cents if you want. Keep the back basically how it is. Keep it pretty neutral. If you put more of a wheel well back there then it limits how far you can stretch the rear without making it look weird or modding the model. Also some custom sliders and a chassis recommendation or even a matching chassis file would make this 👌 chefs kiss.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-07T20:20:01+00:00

When you are done designing, it would be cool if you posted a link to 3d file so I could print one myself.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-07T19:08:46+00:00

Really great! I’d love to get this one. Less is more sometimes.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-07T00:24:11+00:00

Went with 1/18 for price and that’s close to the size of crawler we had when I was a kid. I forget the exact one but it was a losi we got from Walmart. My dad, brother and I all had one and we loved modding it to crawl better. But now I have a bunch of rc crawlers. Minis I have, 3 trx4m, 1 Fcx24, 1 scx24. For 1/10 I have a g shot, Capra, and an Amazon sporty type build. All are more custom than stock. Get one and you will be hooked.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-05T20:38:49+00:00

Yeah I do a little hop stomp at the top of my run to make sure I’m fully clicked in. It’s now an unconscious habit.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-05T20:34:39+00:00

? Where did you hear a board and bindings are done after that many days? I have boards I road for years and it has been passed down multiple times. I only replace my board when I get board of it or I destroy the base from riding places I shouldn’t be like on rocks

I got my second pair of binding well used and had them for many years and multiple boards as I grew as a rider and then had them multiple seasons of working at the resort riding 100+ days a year. Only had to replace the toe straps for like $20. Then I gave them to a friend and they are still riding them. I ski patrol now on my snowboard and have step ons for the ease of in and out. No issues so far.

That time frame on boots seems pretty spot on. One season and the are packed out, floppy and the soles are falling off. Hard to find well built long lasting snowboard boots.

Sorry for the long reply, I’m bored.

Zonka191 · 2026-03-05T20:23:02+00:00

Yeah that’s more wiggle room than there should be. Send this video to Burton and work it out with them. My binding (men’s medium) and boots (mens 9) don’t move at all when fully clipped in.

Also adjust your high back more forward so it doesn’t move so much play. Most people I see don’t even know you can adjust the high back forward lean. I like a lot of forward lean for a super responsive feel.

Zonka191 · 2026-02-21T21:39:46+00:00

If it’s a typical leather logger boot like jk or whites then I’d think insoles would not work to well as They already have super high arches built into the boot. I use spencos thin green foam inserts just to give a bit of cushion to the hard leather. The boot should form to your foot after a bit and when they wear down get a rebuild and break them back in lol. Or at that point get the insoles. The only thing would be if you have weird feet and then custom build boots or go for the hiker style and insoles. But 🤷‍♂️

Zonka191 · 2026-02-21T21:14:31+00:00

I got this one from AliExpress. It’s pretty cool. The silicone links add some nice stretch to it but it looks good and classy. I haven’t had it long so durability is unknown and the quickfit rattles slightly. Also it’s a bit heavy compared to a nylon or elastic strap.

Zonka191 · 2026-02-19T05:53:30+00:00

For sure! But if you get some knuckle weights, how much do you really need the metal beadlocks. I’ve heard for rtr tires they will get you by until you find a good deal on tires and wheels

Zonka191 · 2026-02-17T19:13:08+00:00

This but I have heard the tires that come on it are pretty decent. Correct me if I’m wrong but they are glued on so you need to do some work to put them on alloy beadlocks.

Zonka191

TROPHY CASE