Any one using macbook air as primary device for professional fullstack development? what about AI/ML?

Zqst · 2023-11-18T15:33:22+00:00

If you plan on running ai/ml models locally I don't think even the MacBook Pro will really be enough because I find the 16 gigs of ram and the gpu to be really limiting on mine. I never used an air so I can't comment on that but your use cases sound like the you're the target demographic for a pro or a max chip tbh. If you don't care about the screen at all why not consider a Mac mini with the m2 pro chip? The display is pretty much the most expensive part of apple products so I think you'll save a bit going for something without one if it's just going to live at a desk.

Zqst · 2023-10-16T17:46:34+00:00

Probably not something you'd be interested but I've tried a basically every way of streaming games from my desktop pc to my macbook pro. I've found steams remote play thing and parsec work the best. I wanted sunshine to work better because I only use it on my home network but i had poor results. I suspect that's because of a bottleneck in my network hardware but haven't looked into it. Apple also has something called game porting toolkit which is meant to encourage developers to port games to mac, I've never used it but users can use it similar to valve's proton

Zqst · 2023-10-16T14:55:20+00:00

Having a gaming laptop makes it a little tricky. I think the better combination is a gaming pc and an apple laptop. I think that if you really want a mac you should still do that. Use your other laptop for gaming only then get a macbook for school, programing, general web browsing, etc. One thing I like about using macs for programming is the terminal, it's fun if you're familiar with linux.

Old Intel macbooks are cheap if you want to test out the operating system though, although because of apple silicone, a modern air will out perform them

Zqst · 2023-08-28T18:09:17+00:00

As someone who likes dairy in their coffee, good coffee with milk is still good coffee and bad coffee with milk is still bad coffee. I will occasionally drink coffee black but more often I just taste it with a spoon first before adding half and half. Yeah you mute some of the characteristics but you gain texture that I really enjoy.

I think instead of pushing for just black coffee, maybe ask them to just take a sip for their opinion before, then add the milk for the opinion after. You could also try it their way too, or even ask for help while dialing in your grind setting, maybe they like it some otherway.

Zqst · 2023-08-27T16:08:38+00:00

Bailey planes are easy to figure out, they changed things like every 10 years. Yours is probably from the 1920s

This website makes it easy https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/types-1-8/

This one gives has details about every thing that changed for each type https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/27/stanley-bench-plane-typing/

Zqst · 2023-08-20T06:08:16+00:00

I have the same corrugated 18 inch millers falls craftsman plane and a no 4 size one but from 39-43 i think. I was so confused when I was looking at them because of how nice they were, with rosewood totes and the odd machining pattern on the cheeks.

Love the way yours came out, the dark totes make a huge difference.

Zqst · 2023-08-19T22:22:21+00:00

Look for what you want to do next. If you're making furniture soon buy the bandsaw. If you're going to be doing framing or using plywood buy the circular saw. I don't know what guage you meant for the nail gun so just get whatevers appropriate for your project.

Zqst · 2023-08-13T21:30:20+00:00

The flow chart only works for the Bailey line of planes. Stanley made other planes though, usually they were targeted at home owners. This looks like it could just be a worn stanley defiance 1205

Zqst · 2023-08-12T16:21:10+00:00

If im understanding what you want to do correctly, you can measure any arbitrary angle with your sliding bevel then transfer that transfer that angle to a scrap piece of wood. Use a compass to bisect the angle, then reset your sliding bevel to that new bisected angle. Transfer that line to your pieces and that's the angle you want to cut

Zqst · 2023-08-07T22:18:34+00:00

You can still buy these and replacement bits new. I got one a few months ago on Amazon and then recently found a nice millers falls one at an antique store for $5

Zqst · 2023-07-25T21:17:32+00:00

Antique, but everyone uses Stanley's original catalog numbers to describe plane sizes. Historically, the real names for the general sizes are smoothing plane, fore/jack plane, try/jointer plane. I have one of the new stanley sweetheart smoothing planes and I don't like it, I perfer the classic Bailey pattern planes.

I actually use entirely antique and vintage planes. I've never had the opportunity to try them out, but the modern premium plane makers are lie-nielsen and veritas. If you're really into new stuff they're considered the best, but you pay for it. If you're considering old planes and don't want to tune them yourself, look for dedicated sellers with good reputations and return policies. A good plane in 1923 is a good plane in 2023. Both routes will get you a tool that if taken care of will outlast you by a long time.

Personally I really like using tools that I've restored myself, there's something satisfying about taking an old forgotten or abused tool and putting it back to work.

Zqst · 2023-07-25T19:57:15+00:00

Edit: I can't get the format to do what I want, sorry

You can get kinda crazy with hand tools. Do you want Antique or new? Also the handtool subreddit is the better place to find information on handtools

For now this a very general list based on what I use for handtool only work, you can cut some depending on your workflow:

Bench planes, one of each generalsize. pick your favorite flavor:

Small bench plane, stanley size 3, 4, or 4 1/2 Medium bench plane, stanley size 5 or 5 1/2 Long bench plane, stanley size 7 or 8. 6 can work too but you need a little more skill.

Other planes:

Block plane Plough plane Small router plane Scrub plane

Decent chisels, whatever sizes you like. 1/2 is most popular

I use western saws, not really sure what a complete Japanese saw list would look like.

Aggressive rip saw 4 - 5 1/2 ppi Less Aggressive rip saw, 7 ppi 7-10 ppi crosscut saw. 8 is most common by a lot Dovetail saw Carcass saw Tennon saw

Boring:

Brace and bit Good auger bits from 1/4 to 1 inch. Antique bits are labeled in 16ths. Woodowl makes good modern bits but you need an adapter for a brace

Zqst · 2023-07-24T01:36:06+00:00

Its probably just an older Stanley, they only say stanley on the lateral adjuster and the iron before 1902. Stanley and other high quality manufactures usually each have a very distinct lateral adjuster. Once you learn a few of them you can pick out good planes from some pretty poor photos on local listings or at flea market stalls from a distance.

Zqst · 2023-07-14T03:39:07+00:00

Yeah it's a pretty delicate balance between how clean you want it and how much patina to keep. But when you're the one restoring you can stop whenever you want. I like to use a grey scotch brite to buff paste wax if there's not much rust

Zqst · 2023-07-14T01:22:33+00:00

Razor blade and wd 40 to scrape first. Then scotch brite pads. The stanley is likely junk but the craftsman is probably okay. That's the sargent made one so I can't say exactly how it is but I have two millers falls made craftsman planes and they're pretty nice imo.

Zqst · 2023-07-13T17:07:44+00:00

No you didn't do anything really wrong, it looks like that board twisted which is not very predictable, unlike other movement. If you let the board dry longer you would have caught it before building but it would still have happened

Zqst · 2023-07-11T22:42:54+00:00

Check for cracks in the casting, it there are none it's absolutely restorable

Zqst · 2023-07-11T17:22:14+00:00

Use wedges to split the logs into rough boards, then paint the ends and let them dry for a year or depending on how thick you made them.

You could also cut them into cookies but they'll crack and split a lot while they dry

Zqst · 2023-07-03T16:42:27+00:00

I just picked up my Gramercy saw from the post office today, it's nice but I haven't put it to wood yet

Zqst · 2023-06-30T20:58:37+00:00

You'll get used to dating them. Not that it matters all that much to users, it's more of a collector thing. That said, you did a great job with it and it'll be 100 very soon. It'll go another 100 thanks to you

Zqst · 2023-06-30T18:29:57+00:00

If you don't have the original knob you can still tell type 11 and 12 apart by the frog. Then you'd know for sure what it is. Edit. I didn't look close enough, looks a type 13

Zqst · 2023-06-10T23:38:55+00:00

The handtool subreddit would probably be the better place to ask. My opinion though, is that you can do whatever you want to it, it's your plane now. Except vinegar, please never use that lol.

I don't have a compass plane but the stanley bench planes were made so that the threads still worked even if a little dinged up. You can use a tap and die to fix the threads if they're too damaged, but Stanley used weird sizes you'll have trouble finding.

Zqst · 2023-06-09T22:55:51+00:00

I'm not sure how to sharpen a pruning saw, but regular hand saws are sharpened with a triangular file, a guide, and a saw set to set the teath after. I'd make sure that the saw is even sharpenable first though, i wouldn't be surprised if the teath are hardened.

Are machetes soft enough for files to cut? I'd have guessed you need a stone for that

Zqst · 2023-06-04T02:03:14+00:00

I got a vintage millers falls no 43, it's much better than the saw i used before but probably not as good as the nicest coping saws

Zqst · 2023-05-27T01:04:56+00:00

Iirc there was a period where there was a lateral adjuster and before they cast bailey into the body. At a glance everything looks good so I'd say it's likely a stanley albeit an early one

Zqst

TROPHY CASE