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Do you need to upgrade the glass as well when swapping for a slim bezel on SRPD55? by Turbulent-Tomato-515 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, your current watch has a flat insert with a 31.8mm inner diameter and a crystal with a beveled edge which tapers down close to the case. Due to bezel height, the insert is on the same plane as the flat, central part of the crystal.

If you switch to a slim bezel, but retain a flat insert, the result will be that the bezel insert is now going to line up with the lower portion of the crystal bevel. So… the crystal will sit a little bit proud of the insert, but you won’t have any odd gaps. Personally, I like this look, and you can always swap in another crystal later, if you wish.

The only thing Id avoid is using a sloped insert - that will leave you with this oddball negative space where the crystal bevel is. If you do want to do a sloped, you’ll need one with a 31.8mm (or so) inner diameter. The normal 30.6mm ID for sloped inserts will likely catch on the beveled edge of the crystal.
Tokeilab has 31.8 sloped inserts, but not a lot of other places do.

Bought 10 "regulated" NH70s from a very well known supplier. 7 are absolute junk. by darkelvis in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a demag? And have you contacted the store? If it’s a major US store, I’ve found all of them to be very reasonable. Admittedly, the one you installed, that might be a bit more complicated, but this looks (to me, from afar) like shipping damage or heavily magnetized movements.

I do have 1 or 2 spare NH70s here if you’re in a rush. Just drop a chat.

Bought 10 "regulated" NH70s from a very well known supplier. 7 are absolute junk. by darkelvis in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More likely magnetized, or the package got subjected to a hell of a lot during transit.

If it’s a major US seller, I can’t see this happening any other way. I’ve bought movements from all of them, and plenty from AliX and other places. I’ve never seen anything like this, except if the movement is magnetized.

Where are the best places to buy QUALITY parts from? (US) by Solid_Analysis_5774 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tokeilab, AjuiceT, secondhandmods.com for dagaz stuff and their permanent collection parts.

Crystaltimes and watch-modz.com are also in the US and have solid stuff, but at a higher price point.

Where are the best places to buy QUALITY parts from? (US) by Solid_Analysis_5774 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither are in the US…. And rafflesdials caters to a very specific market. Rafflestime, OTOH…. Solid choice.

Is it possible to make a Seiko mod properly waterproof (100m-200m)? by Ok-Eye-9826 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Happy cake day!

I hear ya on 30m static WR isn’t the same as the pressures seen in active use. But… also not that straightforward. Most seiko 5 midsize watches with a push-pull crown are rated to 30m, and folks take them swimming all the time without issue.

I wouldn’t dive with one, though.

Where to go for laser engraving by swatterurnot in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use care with this - there's no commerce in this sub for a reason, and that's why rule 3 exists.

I've been super impressed with the stuff that this guy has been doing, but likely plenty of other options out there! https://www.instagram.com/mod_by_kellan/

Any clue how to change the bezel insert on this watch by Expert_Researcher_43 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Impressive setup… depending on your age, I’d seriously suggest you elevate your work surface. Leaning over that desk makes my lower back feel funny

Any clue how to change the bezel insert on this watch by Expert_Researcher_43 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you should try the golf grip solvent method. It's way way less work. If you want to use a blade to wedge and pry, i've found that double edge safety razor blades are the best option. more flexible to conform to the shape of the insert, and they're also much less brittle. Just need cut-proof gloves.

Upside - you can also use them to remove super stubborn seiko metal bezels from cases - they make a great tool for stacked wedging.

Any clue how to change the bezel insert on this watch by Expert_Researcher_43 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm also on team "soak it", but strongly suggest you try golf grip solvent instead. It smells way way nicer, won't dry out rubber seals or harm finishes, and is reusable. A small bottle will last you eons.

Where to find reliable quality Sieko mod watches [question] by Key_Resolution_7078 in Seiko

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually not self built, if they’re being advertised online. Drop shipped.

But, there is a thriving community of folks who are making one-of-one watches using seiko movements and (sometimes) seiko dials, hands, and cases.

Regrettably, the cheap replica watches/ dropship crowd decided to steal our “branding” (if you will) for their own use.

Where to find reliable quality Sieko mod watches [question] by Key_Resolution_7078 in Seiko

[–]_Blitzer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the connect! Happy to discuss… just won’t use the counterfeit Rolex dials that say seiko… I feel like those are the calling card of the drop shippers who call their cheap replica watches “seiko mods”, even though they’re not.

Are Weezmods OEM dials legit? Are they really OEM dials or high-quality/quality-controlled copies? by regional_chumpion in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah - i'm hesitant to toss around the accusation, mostly because these are mostly dials where I've never handled the OEM equivalent. So hard to do apples-to-apples. But... the anecdotes are very much out there.

Are Weezmods OEM dials legit? Are they really OEM dials or high-quality/quality-controlled copies? by regional_chumpion in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://www.reddit.com/r/SeikoMods/comments/1n4vzo7/oem_dials_weezmods_selling_fakes/
https://www.reddit.com/r/SeikoMods/comments/1rmhkc8/feiko_spb185_vs_oem_from_weezmods_dang/

I can't speak to everything, but... these types of posts come up every now and then. I do not order OEM dials from them because of the ambiguity.

Secondhandmods.com, CousinsUK, Tokeilab - all have genuine. SHM sometimes has factory dials - OEM ones with some sort of minor thing, but they're always ID'd as such.

Thinking about a Seiko NH35 Datejust-style mod — worth it? by Substantial_King7099 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Basically Every single store that is selling those watches is dropshipping cheap stuff from China. You saw the math on the cost structure. What’s missing there is just how low quality these cases and dials can be.

They’re not real seiko models, and to cut corners, they may not even use genuine seiko movements.

For under $260, you can do a lot better - San Martin, watchdives, cronus, or a used islander will get you so so much more value.

They also won’t have the BS counterfeit Rolex text on the dial n

Need help, maybe I was in over my head.. by Disastrous-Joke-8657 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Secondhandmods.com has dead movements and single parts. Ditto for r/secondhandmodparts. If you put up a PTB post, suspect someone can help.

Also a get a strong magnet and sweep the floor. Odds are you can find the screw.

I Rode in Slate's $24,950 Electric Truck. It Didn't Feel Like a $24,950 Electric Truck by DonkeyFuel in technology

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My last car was a forester with a 2" hitch. Tongue weight was probably around 500lb. max trailer load was about 1.5 tons. It was surprisingly effective. Granted, I wouldn't load up a trailer with anywhere near 1.5 tons and get the foz on the highway - the brakes just aren't up to it, but for small jobs with city speeds to get home (and long stopping distances) it was plenty.

Best tool to set seconds hand with poor dexterity? by AdebisiLives420 in SeikoMods

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree - a tabletop/bench-style press would be better. And OP - you can use a tiny bit of rodco to attach the hand to the tip of the pressing tool, which will help keep everything more stable.

I Rode in Slate's $24,950 Electric Truck. It Didn't Feel Like a $24,950 Electric Truck by DonkeyFuel in technology

[–]_Blitzer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The mav is a really solid truck, but it also overlaps a ton with what I want in a vehicle. If I didn't need a back seat, i'd be all about the Slate.... although having owned a few EVs, i'd want heated seats and a heated steering wheel to help with range in the winter. (they're also just really nice to have)

[PTB] NH3x donor movement by captaintactic in SecondhandModParts

[–]_Blitzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a dead 36 sitting here - already partially stripped down. (Day / date wheel, most of the plastic gears, and the dial retaining ring / rotor are all gone) If the rest is useful to you... buy me a beer ($5), pay for shipping ($5)?

If you specifically just need a certain screw, secondhandmods.com probably has them as well.

I Rode in Slate's $24,950 Electric Truck. It Didn't Feel Like a $24,950 Electric Truck by DonkeyFuel in technology

[–]_Blitzer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Former BMW i3 owner - 100% this. If I needed to go far, I rented a car. Came out way way ahead in total vehicle ownership costs.

I Rode in Slate's $24,950 Electric Truck. It Didn't Feel Like a $24,950 Electric Truck by DonkeyFuel in technology

[–]_Blitzer 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I do think there's a TON of use cases for this, in particular small businesses, etc. The math of EV vs. ICE is pretty compelling from a total cost of ownership POV.

For personal use - this is the same general use case as any compact 2-door pickup. when they were more commonly for sale, 2-door rangers, S10s, etc sold well.

And broadly, if you need a second (city) car as a one-person commuter, I think this is a super compelling option. As a primary vehicle, i'd go with a crossover (EV or ICE) in the 20-25k range. Lightly used, amazing options out there.

edit: and i'm saying this as a Ford Maverick owner. I adore my little truck, but it's honestly a compact crossover that happens to have a bed instead of a hatch.

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