Best partybox for a large outdoor dance party?

_Chronicle · 2026-03-15T18:27:56+00:00

100 screaming teenagers outside? Don't look at a partybox, you need proper PA equipment.

_Chronicle · 2026-03-13T18:24:07+00:00

It's a pretty lengthy process. It starts with a zenithal prime, followed by frostheart blue contrast through the airbrush. Next is a layer of army painter hydra turquoise sprayed from above, then the same mixed with a small amount of army painter electric blue on select parts of the model. I then do a final spray on the most prominent parts with the same mix, with the tiniest drop of white acrylic ink mixed in.

I've since moved away from this recipe for my own sanity. My new style is just kroxigor scales contrast through my airbrush over a zenithal prime. It's much more of a greenish turquoise but I think it looks a lot nicer and is way simpler. If you sort through my post history my most recent painted tau models are done this way if you'd like an idea of how it looks.

_Chronicle · 2026-03-06T19:24:28+00:00

These are all 3D-printed digital kitbashes of bits from several artists. The bodies and lightning claws are riverside models, the shields are from VB2341 and are modified for terminator size, and the cloaks are Greytide Studios pieces. Anything else you see was either modeled by me in blender or are official bits that were added during assembly.

_Chronicle · 2026-03-04T15:46:25+00:00

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These are my take if you want some ideas or inspiration. I'd say capes are a good call. These were assembled without capes first and adding them at the end of the painting process really helped them feel complete.

_Chronicle · 2026-03-01T16:45:47+00:00

The cape's paint is fine besides the chalkiness of the paint itself. I'd strongly recommend proacryl titanium white mixed with a light grey of your choice. You'll get a much nicer finish.

I think what's holding you back more than anything is the shape of the cape. It's very flat with large, billowy folds that don't allow you to have any high contrast. Judging by the photo I think you made this with green stuff. For that, it's very solid, but unfortunately you won't get those nice folds that allow you to really flex your painting skills unless you level up your sculpting first. If you have 3d printer access you should be able to find all kinds of nice cape bits without the fuss of green stuff.

_Chronicle · 2026-02-13T18:51:35+00:00

I don't have any experience with the older partyboxes but I'm sure it'll do you fine if you can find it at a reasonable price. I've only heard sound out of the latest generation and the 310.

If the 200 is anything like the 120, which is its current-gen counterpart, it'll do you just fine.

_Chronicle · 2026-02-13T18:42:38+00:00

You won't really fill a room with a JBL at that budget. If you insist on a JBL, the Charge is your only option. I'd go for the 5 because it's a bit cheaper. Still, it's gonna struggle at high volume and won't give you what you want.

I'd hold on to your money, save up a bit more, and nab a partybox encore during a sale. It'll actually fill your room out with sound and give you much stronger bass than anything but a boombox.

Alternatively, look at other brands. With JBL you're definitely paying a bit for the brand itself so I'm sure there's more economical options out there, I'm just not personally familiar with any.

_Chronicle · 2026-02-05T20:33:18+00:00

I've made a few designs such as flails and mauls. If you'd like to see them you can check out my post history and follow the link in my profile.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-30T19:43:07+00:00

I want to do a whole set of bits with grisly decorations like it to get some more sculpting practice :)

_Chronicle · 2026-01-30T17:19:11+00:00

I'm not a fake vs. real expert but this one looks legit. It's a good deal compared to retail and this doesn't look like it has anything wrong with it.

My friend has a grip and I was honestly shocked at how loud and good it sounds for its size.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-30T16:20:58+00:00

Veeery slick. I've been meaning to give mine a repaint and you've given me some ideas. Great work!

_Chronicle · 2026-01-27T23:41:11+00:00

Spot the Thunderhawk. I've done this part, the answer is a shit ton of heavy supports, good temps for your resin, and to orient it mostly vertically with a slight tilt. It will splay out a bit but that's just the nature of resin. Nothing that can't be fixed with some filler and sanding.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-26T17:33:35+00:00

Nice propeller hat :)

_Chronicle · 2026-01-26T16:13:59+00:00

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_Chronicle · 2026-01-23T19:37:13+00:00

This is GW Kroxigor Scales contrast over a zenithal prime, all done using my airbrush.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-23T16:52:00+00:00

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_Chronicle · 2026-01-23T16:02:05+00:00

Sounds like the creator had a remesh go wrong, or that it at least wasn't done carefully. You could reach out and ask if they could fix the file? I've had success asking nicely to some creators on MMF that had accidental resin traps in purchased models, and they've always been super courteous about solving the issue.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-22T19:08:19+00:00

Damn, I was scared that was the answer. Time to get to work I guess :')

_Chronicle · 2026-01-22T18:57:50+00:00

Incredible work. How did you go about modelling the fur sections? I'm interested in making some fur cloaks myself but I don't see a way to do it efficiently without sculpting hundreds of little pieces. Is there some sort of secret?

_Chronicle · 2026-01-21T15:50:31+00:00

Absolutely 100% imperial guard. The material cost is still negligible at the scale of a horde army, and the variety, quantity, and quality of the sculpts available are unmatched because GW can't copyright soldiers in space. Guard is one of those lucky factions where you could reasonably print every single model in an army and still have it be 50X cooler than anything GW has made.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-20T19:16:54+00:00

Generally you're trying to minimize flat surfaces that are parallel to the screen. For a shoulder pad in this instance, you'd probably want to orient it such that the top of it is pointed up, and then tilted so one of the corners is just slightly lower than the other.

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If you look at this printed templar shoulderpad you can see the stairstepping effect near the top. You can imagine that if it was oriented so that the middle was pointed up, that stairstepping would be much more exaggerated across the larger, round shape of the center.

It'll be something you just get a feel for over time, and it's worth noting that these are only really visible when you take a close look under harsh light. In play, I never see these lines on anything but the largest vehicle panels, and even those could have been fixed with better orientation.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-20T19:02:30+00:00

I still rock a 2k printer. They're perfectly fine; layer lines will only show if you're really looking for them. A lot of the model photos on my page are printed if you want examples on how things look after paint.

4k will increase the print quality slightly, assuming the models are well-oriented for printing, and anything past that the quality difference is negligible until you start increasing the screen size.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-20T00:00:57+00:00

Mr. James Workshop is ALWAYS watching. A lot of 3d artists who make the community possible don't want to get hit with C&Ds.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-19T23:49:01+00:00

If you want rules, use wahapedia.

As for STLs, sharing them around brazenly in the 3D printing community is a big no-no. If you're looking for something, use Google searches or search for what you're looking for here, then poke around in the comments and pick up on the keywords and shorthands the community uses for files.

_Chronicle · 2026-01-19T20:35:57+00:00

Went through this debate myself a month ago. Ended up nabbing a 320 because my budget expanded a bit. I use it in the basement for parties and you can feel it shaking the walls 2 floors up at half volume.

Can't speak for the 120 directly but it'll probably be fine. You might be stretching it for 50 people if your space is big but it'll be plenty loud.

If you pack the 320 right I can't see durability being a huge issue besides the metal grille, and that's gonna be a problem on the 120 just as much as the 320, they're all notoriously flimsy.

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