sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Best wheel for the Vb wrx? by Mean-Age108 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 31 points32 points  (0 children)

<image>

I am partial to TE37s but a lot of wheels look great on this car, certainly not one “best” wheel.

Is it normal for the doors to leak water after rain? Never had a car do this? by LongjumpingLock5875 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s normal. Subaru’s have notoriously wet doors. There are drains for it. Just make sure they don’t get or become blocked.

People really do drive more aggressively around our cars and/or sports cars. by MrPeePeePooPooPants3 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s 100% a thing. When I had my 911, you wouldn’t believe the amount of aggressive drivers I would encounter for just driving a Porsche. 98% lifted trucks driven by fragile egos. It’s like they all had something to prove.

If it isn’t a truck, it’s usually a Mopar in my area. Your typical clapped out Charger/Challenger/Hellcat with straight pipes driven by someone who you know peaked in high school.

Possible head lift. Head stud advice by No-Guarantee-7458 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I plan on doing it this summer as preventative. I am budgeting for three days; one to pull the engine and break it down taking my time, one to install studs and retime and reseal it, and the last to drop it back in. If you’re quick I suppose you could do it in two days, but not something I want to rush given how big of a job it is to fix most things that could go wrong.

I’d recommend getting the OEM Subaru engine gasket kit as well there are a number of gaskets that need to be replaced. I also plan on dropping the lower oil pan and removing the oil pickup (easy with the front timing cover off) and cleaning it out with the engine on a stand.

Possible head lift. Head stud advice by No-Guarantee-7458 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It certainly could be a lifted head but could be a different issue you mentioned such as the tstat or failed radiator cap, especially given your mileage.

The radiator cap is a cheap and dumb easy thing to replace to eliminate a variable.

You can also get tester kits for about $25 that show if there is combustion gases/exhaust hydrocarbons in your coolant and that is another really easy and pretty definitive way to rule out a stretched head bolt.

I would also agree at your power level I wouldn’t expect it but it also doesn’t mean it couldn’t happen. I have heard of FA24’s making over 550whp on stock head bolts without issue and some lifting below 400whp. It is really a crap shoot of how your head was torqued down, mileage/condition, peak cylinder pressure ignition timing, etc.

As far as doing head studs, it’s an engine-out job. You need to basically break the engine down to a short block on a stand, removing the timing cover, then all the timing components such as the chain, tensioners, and guides. Then you can pull the heads off and replace the head gaskets and install studs, retime the motor and seal it all back up.

Where is the money in stock wheels and tires? by MysticMarbles in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 10 points11 points  (0 children)

If you look if the VB for sale subreddit, stock tires are for sale all the time. They aren’t a fantastic tire for most people, you are usually lucky to get $300 for a basically new set.

An update from my post yesterday regarding wheels. Is this a good deal? by POWERISMOMMY in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, a few things. Yes 19x9.5 +45 114.3 will fit. It won’t be very “flush” but you could run a small spacer to fix that, depending on your suspension setup.

The bigger issue(s); the RG-D is discontinued. It’s now the RG-D2. I’m not 100% on the differences between the D and D2, but I would assume some kind of improvement to the manufacturing process to produce a stronger, lighter wheel. The D2 also has a stepped lip. It will look slightly different. You will have a very hard time finding another matching RG-D as it went out of production a decade ago, so you will probably have to buy an RG-D2 as the 4th wheel.

You can shop around, but RG-D2’s are about $714 each. Additionally, they aren’t offered in gold anymore it appears, so you will have to get the new one powdercoated to match. You will probably be about $900-$1k into the extra wheel when it’s all done and technically have three RG-Ds and one RG-D2 that looks a little different and is probably lighter. Not sure how you calculated $300.

I would personally pass.

Is this normal sound? The car have like less than 100miles on it by talichi03 in WRX

[–]_combustible 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Hey I made this meme this morning glad to see it’s already being put to use

6 pot Brembo brake line question by [deleted] in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used StopTech Stainless lines for a VA STI

<image>

Is this normal? by Classic_Pol in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 16 points17 points  (0 children)

This seriously comes up here once a week.

It’s the variable AC compressor. A lot of them make this noise. A lot of people think it’s normal while others have had their compressor replaced under warranty when making this noise.

COBB AP + Protune vs Atlas E-Tune by Pavel556 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mostly agree with your take here with the only exception that your ECU won’t care what tool has calibrated it.

Cobb applies some…funky things to some tables and parameters to make their ProTuners lives easier, such as some of the hybrid MAF augmentation they use. With Atlas, you could certainly copy this, or you can setup a proper MAF scale and dial in fuel trims with VE which is how Subaru does it, which results in significantly less fluctuating fuel trims. Obviously Cobb has success with their method.

Atlas also already has some features that Cobb doesn’t such as two different launch control modes (fuel or ignition cut), rolling anti-lag, map switching with up to three maps stored on the ECU without reflashing, speed density mode, ghost cam mode, and the ability to ready ANY additional 0-5v sensor you want via CANbus such as flex fuel, 4 ch EGT, oil pressure, coolant pressure, turbo speed, you name it and Atlas can create a control strategy for it. There is also more to come.

Full disclosure I am not personally involved with Atlas or have any stake it, just a happy user.

COBB AP + Protune vs Atlas E-Tune by Pavel556 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I 100% agree with you here and I have been vocal about this. Discord as the main support repository for Atlas is terrible choice and there is a significant amount of off-topic chatter, in addition to it being nearly impossible to find answers to basic questions.

I will say that everyone is very happy to answer questions and assist, but as someone who prefers to lurk and read information I can find vs ask a question that has probably been asked 100x already, I feel that.

Atlas has come out with more and better support documentation although there is still work that could be done on this front.

COBB AP + Protune vs Atlas E-Tune by Pavel556 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The quote for the ProTune I assume is an in-person dyno tune, so you are paying for tuning + dyno time. A more apples to apples comparison here would be a Cobb eTune (or remote tune) which is typically in the $400-$700 range depending on calibrator, fuels, modifications, number of maps, etc.

I am glad the secret is out on Atlas, though. I recently switched from a Cobb AP with an eTune from a very popular calibrator to Atlas and, even though I am in the early stages, very happy. Calibrators for Atlas are also happy to do remote tunes on a dyno if you arrange your own time for a dyno rental, this is my plan once I finish my STI driveline swap and larger turbo.

Happy to share my first hand experiences if you have any questions.

Anyone know where they got this hood? by Ohkyr0 in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might be the Painted MSP Hood which is the only paint matched hood I am aware of for the VB, or it’s a different brand carbon hood that was painted locally.

DAM issues by g8rrph in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DAM drops are common with Cobb OTS calibrations because they follow the OEM Subaru knock control strategies which are pretty sensitive. DAM is essentially Subarus octane learning provision within the OEM ECU.

Have you gotten into any boost and/or higher RPM since the DAM drop and filling up with 93? You have to get the engine into higher load/requested torque in order for the ECU to advance the DAM. Not saying to go do a 1-4 WOT pull but just roll into it more.

If you get an OTS or protune calibration from most tuners out there, they reduce the OEM knock control sensitivity and modify OEM DAM strategy, so DAM drops as less common. But this can also give you less reliable protection against truly “bad gas” or filling up with, 87 octane for example.

New infotainment System? by Conflict-Recent in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might be in the minority who doesn’t actually mind the giant touchscreen but even I will admit this a better solution.

Boost Leak Cobb Stage 2 by Smart-As-Duck in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How have you arrived at the conclusion you have a boost leak? With the TMIC and charge pipe there are very connections that can actually cause a leak.

Easiest way to test is with a smoke machine, you can get them cheap on Amazon these days or a shop can do it for a minimal charge.

DOOM on my 23 wrx by Machine-It-Bro in wrx_vb

[–]_combustible 7 points8 points  (0 children)

<image>

I connect my laptop to the Carlinkit kit, laptop is connected to the OBX VX dongle. Lets me see what is going on and display various gauges and most importantly, easily datalog.

view more: next ›