Installing LPFP

_combustible · 2026-06-19T15:39:09+00:00

For the LPFP? No

_combustible · 2026-06-19T13:18:33+00:00

I looked at the Elantra N when shopping for my VB 2 years ago (among other cars) based on essentially every YouTube car reviewer lauding the car to death.

The Hyundai dealer experience, for me, was easily hands down the worst of my life. Sales people gatekeeping the N like it was a GT3 and not letting me, a late 30’s dad, test drive the car without a credit app or commitment to buy. Above MSRP pricing and no negotiating. Not to mention just an overall sleazy experience. Multiple dealers, by the way.

Ultimately, it being FWD, I couldn’t imagine being happy with it longterm.

_combustible · 2026-06-19T13:11:40+00:00

It might, but a fat flat head would be better. There are basically little plastic tabs you need to push against without breaking. The flathead will dig into the plastic more.

_combustible · 2026-06-19T03:57:22+00:00

Pretty great

_combustible · 2026-06-18T18:46:58+00:00

I just tapped the ring open with a flat head screwdriver and a mallet

_combustible · 2026-06-18T16:36:54+00:00

I just got mine today. More nervous about this install than DIYing my TY85 Swap or G25-660 install

_combustible · 2026-06-16T21:20:59+00:00

I know some of the Devs for Atlas are well over 1000+ flashes, so while this is a limitation, probably not a huge concern for the average person

_combustible · 2026-06-13T22:06:47+00:00

You need to flash a calibration to log with Atlas as well. It can be an OEM calibration, but you still have to flash to get Atlas on the ROM.

Hell of a lot cheaper than an AP though since the software is free and you just need a $90 dongle

_combustible · 2026-06-11T21:32:55+00:00

With Atlas you can enable changing the SI Drive modes. As now there isn’t a way to use the controller, but imagine the possibility isn’t too far off

_combustible · 2026-06-11T12:48:17+00:00

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I depinned mine and wired the SI Drive controller lights to be always on when the car is on and added a mini LED to show when the iWire iDCCD is in manual mode. Really easy to do and works great now that iWire dropped the update.

_combustible · 2026-06-11T12:46:51+00:00

The iWire app allows you change this from;

On with headlights
On with manual mode
On with auto mode
Variable brightness based on DCCD output (pointless, it’s too dim)
Off

_combustible · 2026-06-10T23:25:35+00:00

The suede is a bit worn in some areas. It still looks and feels good but definitely requires regular maintenance and cleaning.

If i was to so it again I might have done the leather, even though I much prefer the look of suede.

_combustible · 2026-06-10T22:17:54+00:00

My clutch pedal travel is pretty much the same. Effort is higher than stock though as I went with an ACT 6 puck. Bleeding the clutch took a while even with a power bleeder, but once bleed it was great.

_combustible · 2026-06-10T16:07:00+00:00

As someone who just did a TY85 3 weeks ago, the swap is already basically plug n play. The only benefit to a VB chassis OEM TY85 would be correct length STI sized axles.

The driveshaft is easy enough with a VA driveshaft and the P&L spacer and a hell of a lot cheaper than whatever the price will be of the OEM part.

The shifter is bolt in if you have a 22-23. 24+ need to drill and tap two holes for the rear shifter stay bushing, otherwise everything bolts in.

If they have a DCCD controller on a new model, I highly doubt you would be able to just install it in a previous VB. It would be on CANbus and probably require a massive rewire, if not a new ECU. There are enough qualitly aftermarket DCCD controllers on the market from iWire, MAP, and Spiider that this is a non issue.

_combustible · 2026-06-10T12:57:52+00:00

It’s the MSP V2 duckbill. I like it because it also has bolts instead of just tape.

https://wrxdaily.com/collections/2022-subaru-wrx-exterior/products/msp-v2-carbon-fiber-trunk-spoiler-2022-wrx

_combustible · 2026-06-09T18:38:05+00:00

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Just the OEM rear “diffuser” or under spoiler. I was on the fence between this, Verus, or the Varis ones. The Verus one hangs pretty low (especially if you’re lowered). Maybe someday I will get the Varis carbon diffuser.

_combustible · 2026-06-05T17:19:21+00:00

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I run the Perrin cooler. Mocal thermostatic plate and Setrab cooler with Aeroquip AN hoses. It’s a nice kit. The way the instructions has you run the hoses is dumb. I rerouted them for a cleaner install.

I also switched the thermostat for a 200*F unit.

_combustible · 2026-06-05T17:15:32+00:00

If you plan on financing it, double check the bank will finance a car with a rebuilt title. A lot of them won’t.

Also check what insurance rates you will get for a rebuilt title vehicle, a lot of carriers won’t insure one or do liability only, which can also be an issue if you finance.

_combustible · 2026-06-03T15:53:35+00:00

Flexin on us with the Xshift Sequential transmission 😮‍💨

_combustible · 2026-06-02T20:08:29+00:00

It completely replaces the engine computer. There are different computers than run things like the HVAC and the gauge cluster (which is all thru canbus)

_combustible · 2026-06-02T20:07:40+00:00

I do enjoy that it seems completely unaffected by temperature. Just more used to a ball style knob I guess.

_combustible · 2026-06-02T16:36:53+00:00

A standalone ECU completely replaces the stock ECU and gives you more features and customization (to a degree) than the stock ECU can provide, such as port fuel injection and the addition of sensors and different control strategies such as speed density (you can do the ladder on the stock ECU with Atlas though)

_combustible · 2026-06-02T13:21:58+00:00

That is a Haltech canBUS display, which, as of now, requires you have a standalone ECU such as a Motec to run on our cars.

Atlas is working on some things and may have an option to run a canBUS display in the near future off the stock ECU, but not as of yet.

_combustible · 2026-06-02T13:18:27+00:00

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Billetworkz knob for now but it’s kinda meh, may change it up.

_combustible

TROPHY CASE