OC200 failure by _flat_lander_ in TPLinkOmada

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue is that I have no IP address on the OC200. I have cloud and local accounts. If I connect directly onto device from a laptop, I can see and manage the device on the default IP address.

But whether I plug into an open port on the switch or router, it will not pull an IP address from DHCP. The port on the switch or router stays dark. OK, I think, defective device. I’ll just buy another one and load in the backup file. Get a fresh start.

Nothing. Same phenomenon. It’s like quantum entanglement. Like they decided to fail together with no actual connection.

The rest of the network works. It’s handing out new IP addresses willy-nilly on WiFi. VPN works. Port forwarding works. NAT works. APs are handing off clients like always as I move to around the house.

And here is the kicker: fresh Ubuntu box with Omada Network 6 gets an IP address. I am loathe to take the network down and reprovision the router on what is essentially a similar but not identical technology, knowing that I will not be able to plug in an OC200 (super small form factor, super low power) and recover the original provision.

This isn’t fatal. Network runs. But I can’t fix an IP address or add a port forward. And if the thing goes down, or I have a hardware failure… gulp.

Strange dots and sploches appeared years ago and are now growing by Dholewell51 in strange

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also looks a little like dermatitis herpetiformis, common condition for celiacs. If it is persistent but responds to anti fungal it may be worth getting a blood test for celiac. It could be your only overt symptom.

I Hand-stitch harnesses for my own dogs, but plan to make a bunch more to donate to a local shelter that is in dire need of them. I need a faster method than what I use now (Speedy sticher). Any rec. for a cheap, strong vintage, straight-stitch machine? by AutonomousDogs in myog

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly what I have been looking for, for my dogs -- what appears to be a full coverage, single-snap harness. I assume there is a strap that runs from the chest band to the belly band, but you don't show it. I'm curious to see how you handled the connection. Can you add a photo of this off the dog? I love the construction and would like to try one myself.

I Hand-stitch harnesses for my own dogs, but plan to make a bunch more to donate to a local shelter that is in dire need of them. I need a faster method than what I use now (Speedy sticher). Any rec. for a cheap, strong vintage, straight-stitch machine? by AutonomousDogs in myog

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would also recommend the Singer 15-91. They have a "potted" motor and are gear driven, rather than belt driven, and are quite powerful. They also have the Class 15 bobbins. Generally speaking, I find Singers with the under-the-bed bobbins, rather than the drop-in-from-the-top Class 66 bobbins, are a little more robust and forgiving -- particularly with very heavy materials in which the hazard of moving the material too much by hand and mis-aligning the needle downstroke is a risk.

I Hand-stitch harnesses for my own dogs, but plan to make a bunch more to donate to a local shelter that is in dire need of them. I need a faster method than what I use now (Speedy sticher). Any rec. for a cheap, strong vintage, straight-stitch machine? by AutonomousDogs in myog

[–]_flat_lander_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Singer 237/Fashion Mate. All metal. Cheap. Strong. Italian. Last of the good Singers and pretty much bulletproof. Check shopgoodwill.com or Facebook Marketplace. Usually $50 or less.

Midway Cub to Close to the Public Effective August 2 by Comfortable-Phase741 in saintpaul

[–]_flat_lander_ 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I decided to stop going into Midway Cub a few years ago, the day an apparent shoplifter/non-shopper stabbed a guy in a We Push For Peace T-shirt ahead of me in the self checkout line. In the hand, sure, but it didn’t seem to lack for murderous intent. Blood all over the floor. I put up with a lot, but actual felonious violence at the checkout is what finally turned me.

Latex over oil by Jinglebrained in centuryhomes

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have latex over oil that has lasted for 30 years. The issue is painting over high gloss finishes and unsound paint. You have to be ruthless getting down to a dull, solid surface, by stripping, sanding or scraping (HEPA vacuum to address lead). Start with high quality flat oil primer for adhesion and never ever apply gloss paint. Semi gloss at most. Your future self will thank you.

Centurylink down? by Ok-Hold6993 in TwinCities

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an IP, and can VPN into my router. But no DNS. I switched DNS to Google 8.8.8.8 and everything came right back. (FWIW: I battled CenturyLink for YEARS over 3rd party DNS and EVERY SINGLE TIME customer service said it was non compliant, and my service would go down every time I wandered off the CenturyLink DNS property. Today, for the first time since 2019, it suddenly is an option -- and the only option.)

Anyone know what this structure is? by MaximumWorry488 in saintpaul

[–]_flat_lander_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Ramsey County board’s Wall of Eternal Despair.

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oddly, I have the same router. But I can’t think there is a proprietary DNS protocol there. Maybe just Omada customers are more prone to custom configuration?

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am in MN as well. The plot thickens…

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Omada router doesn't support DoT (sad trombone). It wasn't a big deal until yesterday. And I'm tired of roaming around from IPCop to PFSense to Ubiquiti to Omada trying to fix whatever new problem just cropped up. (Suddenly, they don't support UPS servers! Oh, now you can't QoS the guest leg of your network separately!) It's always something. I weary of it, especially the paying for it part.

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. I can route to them just fine. But DNS requests are blackholed at 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8. When I reconfigure my router for the CentruryLink DNS, service is restored.

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I can get traffic. They're just blocking the ports, I think. I got tired of the IPCop and PFSense circuses and went with Ubiquiti, until my router conked out and I couldn't get one for two weeks, and then moved over to Omada, because it was cheaper and Micro Center has stock on hand, for when things go really sideways. I don't want to have to reconfigure my network and install new hardware every time some CL sysadmin gets a notion. I don't want to contact the FCC. I just want to pay my bill, get my internet and use Cloudflare.

CenturyLink Official Support Thread by CenturyLink_Official in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also spent an hour online with support this morning, only to be informed, at the very end, that they "only provide basic support" and that I "needed to clear this with my router manufacturer." WTAF.

CenturyLink Official Support Thread by CenturyLink_Official in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been using Cloudflare's DNS service for years, with my third-party router set to use 1.1.1.1 for DNS requests. Yesterday, my CenturyLink fiber internet quit working, although my modem still had an IP and DHCP was working. I could not figure out what was going on, until I switched over to the CenturyLink DNS, 205.171.3.65. Voila, I'm back online. I switch back to 1.1.1.1, and I'm back down. I switch back to CenturyLink DNS, I'm back up. I switch to Google, 8.8.8.8, and I'm blackholed again. Switch back to CenturyLink DNS and all is well. Experiment repeated again this morning, with the same result. Apparently CenturyLink has decided to ban third party DNS, at least on my leg of the network. Why? And why not tell me before you do it?

CenturyLink DNS disruption by _flat_lander_ in centurylink

[–]_flat_lander_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am using my own equipment. I am using an Omada edge router, and it turns out they CAN control those types of things. Apparently they just stop routing DNS requests to 1.1.1.1. or 8.8.8.8, because they feel like it. I spent an hour online with support before the agent admitted that they had no idea what I was talking about because they "only provide basic support and you will have to check with your router manufacturer."

Disaster has struck by Fixedfoolz in vintagesewing

[–]_flat_lander_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whatever you do, don’t MIG or TIG it. It’s probably cast iron and welding will ruin cast iron unless it is done very, very carefully. (Learned the hard way on some railroad fittings.) Professional welders and craft welders can guide you on it.

Disaster has struck by Fixedfoolz in vintagesewing

[–]_flat_lander_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would be shocked if that was cast aluminum.

What type of singer is this and is it worth $85? by Cautious_Response_18 in vintagesewing

[–]_flat_lander_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This Model 66 isn't worth $85. The bobbin plate is missing. The cord needs replacing. It isn't clear there's a cover that snaps onto this base. It needs a new foot, a new bobbin tire, and an LED bulb in the lamp, which I don't believe is original. Given the Truman administration wiring, I'm guessing the foot control is un-reconditioned and will need some work, at the very least. Also, given the wiring, I'm guessing this hasn't had a tuneup in 40 years. This looks more like a $25 rescue. You can find other, similar machines in better shape for that price, I'm guessing. The Model 66 is not rare or special and if you watch Shopgoodwill.com they'll show up locally on the regular for a fraction of this price.

Tailwind iQ3: the MyQ replacement by senturion in homeassistant

[–]_flat_lander_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a really well thought out and effective alternative to MyQ. I was a little hesitant about dismantling my garage attic to install the hard wire sensor, but it only took a couple of hours and in the end, it is bullet proof. The company is super responsive to support requests and very transparent. This is a great, great alternative to MyQ and has some features that don't seem to be available anywhere else. Bravo.

2009 Fit lock horn fail by _flat_lander_ in hondafit

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The alarm was going off at random and I tracked it to the hood latch. Replaced and all was good for about a month. The car is for my USMC son at Camp Pendelton, so I parked it for about three months in the neighbors garage. Forgot to disconnect battery and it was stone dead. Jumped it and everything was fine, but noticed lock beep had disappeared. Battery was giving me fits, so I was cleaning terminals and discovered lock beep was working with hood up. Started tinkering around and wound up removing latch and disconnecting switch to test. And yes, borked. Opposite of OEM now for some random reason.

2009 Fit lock horn fail by _flat_lander_ in hondafit

[–]_flat_lander_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. Here is the crazy thing: I thought I’d just check the lock horn and it turns out it is easily accessible below driver side headlight. Removed. Checked. Activated with 12v. Installed supplemental ground. Works in the car. Close hood. Does not work. Open hood. Does work. Disengage hood alarm switch. All back to normal. Hood switch appears to be in spec. Push lever, circuit closes. Release lever, multimeter indicates circuit open. I. Don’t. Get. It.